Which Canon DSLR?

[Essex nightsky]

I'm not sure but I don't believe refractors suffer with infocus issues, I'm sure one of the many talented imagers will clarify this

[Essex nightsky]

Derek this may seem a bit daunting I know... But to put it simply on a reflector, there is sometimes trouble getting the sensor close enough to the focal plain (point of focus).

User wxsatuser points out above, that you may need extensions, this is to combat the opposite problem (focused not moving outward enough) which some reflectors suffer from but I'm sure you will find someone on here who uses the same scope and thee should be able to advise on weather you need spacers

[wxsatuser]

Focus is not an issue if the reducer is used with a 48mm t-ring as the reducer has 55mm of back focus.

I used the reducer on my ED80 so focuser travel was'nt a problem.

[DRT]

So I need a camera attachment and a focal reducer? :sigh:

And a case, more lenses, a couple of grand's worth of filters, 15 miles of cabling, software, night vision goggles and a copy of every photon counts. Anything else?

[Essex nightsky]

Yes... A bank balance to rival bill gates, a weather control machine and a shedload of patience/perseverance

In all seriousness though in your op you said you have no intention of processing images... My avatar (the moon) id admit isn't a great shot but still took about 30-45 mins of processing (converting videos to avi, aligning and stacking frames, aligning each pane to the final image (5 I believe) then some final tweeking to taste) but that's another thread...

Grant

[DRT]

a shedload of patience/perseverance

That is where the problem will occur. There is none of that stuff in my shed and never likely to be.

I need the minimum of kit to attach it to a ED100 refractor and reach focus.

Any suggestions?

I will be snapping pics onto a flash card, no cables and laptops to trip over. I might invest in a remote trigger thingy if this camera allows.

[PeterCPC]

So I need a camera attachment and a focal reducer? :sigh:

And a case, more lenses, a couple of grand's worth of filters, 15 miles of cabling, software, night vision goggles and a copy of every photon counts. Anything else?

A lot of time and patience.

Peter

[Essex nightsky]

That is where the problem will occur. There is none of that stuff in my shed and never likely to be.

I need the minimum of kit to attach it to a ED100 refractor and reach focus.

Any suggestions?

I will be snapping pics onto a flash card, no cables and laptops to trip over. I might invest in a remote trigger thingy if this camera allows.

Is your focuser 1.25 or 2 inch?

[DRT]

Is your focuser 1.25 or 2 inch?

2"

[Alien 13]

I think most refractors will reach focus with a DSLR and T ring but you might have to wind the tube right out so a 2" extension piece is often used to reduce this.

I personaly use one of these http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/skywatcher-2-inch-t-adapter.html

Alan

[Essex nightsky]

Id personally get the adapter suggested above (unless focuser has built in t thread) and an adapter (camera specific) that replaces dslr lens (like the one you suggested although that is an expensive one) and that screws onto the adapter suggested above and slides in the back of the focuser. (hope that makes sense, sounds way more complicated then it is, but there are plenty of videos on youtube if your still confused

[DRT]

Alan, thanks for the link. Would I also need the T-Ring that is shown at the bottom of the page at £21? If so the Baader seems less expensive than I first thought, especially as it is available for £50 on Amazon.

[Physopto]

Hi Derek,

In your post you mention fitting the camera onto your diagonal. Not the best idea. Straight through will be better. One other point I  don't think has been mentioned is if the camera has a mirror lock it would be beneficial, to stop mirror shake.

Derek

[Alien 13]

Alan, thanks for the link. Would I also need the T-Ring that is shown at the bottom of the page at £21? If so the Baader seems less expensive than I first thought, especially as it is available for £50 on Amazon.

Hi Derek you would need that adaptor and a canon T ring (you can get this off e-bay for a few pounds) then fit the whole assemble into the focusser without the diagonal as previously mentioned.

Just had a quick look on e-bay and spotted this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-T-mount-m42-0-75-extension-tube-Canon-t-ring-/131167621030?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e8a330fa6#ht_1318wt_904 you might even find one cheaper.

Alan

[Pyrodave]

So I need a camera attachment and a focal reducer? :sigh:

And a case, more lenses, a couple of grand's worth of filters, 15 miles of cabling, software, night vision goggles and a copy of every photon counts. Anything else?

A few weeks worth of clear skies would help aswelll 

[DRT]

Unfortunately there was a problem with Live View on the 450D so I had to return it to MPB. They were absolutely first class in terms of dealing with the return and I now have my replacement - a mint condition 650D with a Sigma DC 18-125mm lens

When I was in London this week I saw someone photographing Venus and Jupiter with only a Canon DSLR on a tripod through what looked like a "normal" lens. I didn't know that was possible as I have always thought it would have to be attached to a telescope.

Which settings would I need to use to (a) achieve focus and ( get the correct sort of exposure?

[beamer3.6m]

A) focus at infinity and trial and error.

This is for the shots with lens only.

[DRT]

How do I focus to infinity? Is that a setting or do I just twist the focus ring until whatever in the sky the camera is pointing at appears sharp in the Live View or viewfinder?

I'm looking forward to tomorrow - clear sky and a huge big Moon to aim at

[beamer3.6m]

Infinity will be marked on the lens.

It is usually shown by what looks like an 8 on its side

[Alien 13]

Nice camera you have there, as said the best way to focus is to use liveview with the ISO initialy set high (6400) and shutter speed to 30 seconds if focus is close you should see some stars  on the screen and by using the liveview zoom function get the focus even better, once focused reset the ISO to 800 or 1600 and select a suitable shutter speed.

The settings above require the camera to be set to manual mode.

Alan

[DRT]

Thanks guys - that is the sort of basic info I needed. A quick look at the instruction manual revealed more combinations of settings than there are stars in the Milky Way so now I at least have a starting point

Will the 125mm lens be enough? I just read something that advised 200-300mm for astro photography.

[wxsatuser]

Basically you can use any lens, just depends on what FOV your looking for.

I do most of my AP with a Sigma 105mm macro and a Canon EF 200mm L.

[Alien 13]

Thanks guys - that is the sort of basic info I needed. A quick look at the instruction manual revealed more combinations of settings than there are stars in the Milky Way so now I at least have a starting point

Will the 125mm lens be enough? I just read something that advised 200-300mm for astro photography.

To be honest 125mm is plenty to start with most peoples 1st shots start at 50mm because its easier and results are fast, things get harder once you go beyond 200mm FL

Alan

[Tinker1947]

I have a 100mm F2 lens focus on a bright star, then use Liveweiw X10 to get it right, then stop the Lens down to F2.8 so the DOF will take in past the end of the Universe plus a bit more......

[DRT]

My first pic using the 650D through my ED100. Mean and moody...

ISO-1600, 1/60 sec exposure.