Canon 10x30 IS - First Light

[Qualia]

Since May we've been having some really clear and fabulous skies. I've had 33 evening sessions in the last 49 days and because July typically gets worse in terms of stargazing, I've been taking advantage of these steady and clear evenings. Last night was no different.

I never bother with observing lists - the goal is usually to start from a given star and just hop from there; stepping stars as one might step stones in a river. The 10" was well collimated, the 3" was cooling and I had a set of Canon 10x30 IS to test run.

So, first up, what do such small binoculars do?

On the initial and rather casual first light they are amazing. The field looks gorgeously sharp, as if you've suddenly become bionic in vision. The optics are excellent, the weight is surprisingly light and the image stabilizing feature is fabulous. The Milky Way looks like it does in poetry, breathtakingly beautiful. Dark nebulae and starclouds everywhere; rivers of stars swirling against the backdrop of black velvet. The area from Cygnus through to Sagittarius is simply beyond any description.

I started in Scorpius, doing my initial focus on Saturn, Galileo's Saturn with the ears. Next was Antares and I was impressed on just how well the binocular handled this bright object in terms of spiking/flaring. Focus is also very good, sharp and snappy. Cruising in and around Scorpius and Sagittarius yielded numerous jewels: M4, M 6, M 7, M 8, M 10, M 12, M 16, M 18, M 20, M 21, M 22, M 24, M 28 and so on. The binoculars showed lots of nebulosity, cotton bud globulars, pin sharp colourful stars and the real joy of being able to frame within the same settled field of view such magnificent wonders as M 6 & M 7, or M 10 & M 12 or M 8, M 20 & M 21. From there I slowly cruised towards Cygnus, passing M 10, M 12, M 13 along the way.

Until last night, my usual experience with handheld binos was that I did a very poor job with them when it came to significanly observing or splitting stars, or better said, I could observe and split stars but due to the natural wobble of the hand, could not concentrate on the inherent beauty for long. Not so with Canon's Image stabilized binoculars. You just press the button and the image settles, just like that. Clusters and rich star fields are gorgeous. Shelick and the initial split of Epsilon 1 and Epsilon 2 in Lyra, Albireo, are a breeze and so beautiful set against the wide expanse of stars. There is a certain kind of magic in seeing perect little globes next to one another, but when you can do this lying on your back, both eyes open, no wobble or shake, it becomes nirvana.
 

My initial thinking on this is that just like a long frac poorly mounted, no matter how good the optics, one of its signicant limiting factors will be in the vibration, and I figure it is the same with binoculars. In the field, unless you want to set up with tripod and mount etc the shaking of your hands will limit what can be resolved. If you require a set of small, light weight, grab n go binos with outstanding optics that you can easily carry about anywhere you go and will let you see so much more detail in any given distance, then I figure this is a good enough reason to check out IS binoculars.

Before I knew it a good two hours or so had already passed by and it was time to begin a session with the frac and 10". But before I packed away, I thought to myself what a joy it is being able to raise my head, not looking down into diagonals and books and how perfect it is just to lie back on a warm summer's night in a region moderately free of light pollution and just look up at the stars with a set of binoculars. No rush, no fretting, just drinking in everything around you. 

[Piero]

It seems a super piece of equipment! 

I have never seen through an IS, and to be honest, I even ignored the existence before reading your post. The idea is really interesting and particularly suited for astronomy, unless you go really low power (< 10x).

I have a pair of Pentax compact bins 10x24. They have very good optics, but you need to hold your hands firmly for seeing in the dark. The good thing of these compact bins is weight, making holding relatively easy. Despite this, the IS technology seems promising to me.

I am happy you had a nice night with them looking at those gorgeous targets! Binoculars can help make a wonderful connection with the sky, by simply observing in a straightforward manner.

And a connection with the Milky Way core is something of unforgettable! 

[pete_l]

 I had a set of Canon 10x30 IS to test run.

Thank you for a very interesting review.

So: bottom line. Now you've had a test run are they good enough to buy?

[beamer3.6m]

How much are they? I could google but interested to add the price paid into the review on a vfm basis (thats value for money)

[Qualia]

It's extremely difficult to coherently answer questions such as 'are they worth it?' or 'what is their value of money?' As you appreciate, everyone's mileage varies to some degree, so any answer I give will probably reveal more about my own prejudices and interests, rather than illuminating anything insightful on the sticky subject of 'worth' and 'value'. In the ultimate analysis, each person has to gauge this for themselves.

With that said, in my experience whether one uses a telescope or binoculars, stabilization of optics makes a significant difference in observing astronomical subjects and tend to enhance one's enjoyment. As mentioned above, the Image-Stabilization feature (IS) is a useful, not to say powerful component of this binocular, dampening any shakiness or wobble that typically arises. The Canon appears to perform excellently in all lighting conditions and I found the IS function an amazing asset while viewing the Milky Way, double stars and a good number of Messier objects this and last night.

I've been out today watching fast moving birds swooping for insects and tonight following the friendly bat darting about and they perform equally as well. Paying a little more attention tonight, the flat field and edge sharpness is supurb and although the optics are not like my TV 76 they are good, very good. Stars are pin sharp, the light and colour transmission is lovely, the focus is very smooth and the IS system is tip-top. By that I mean it is almost rock solid, as if your binoculars were on a tripod. The system is also very fast: you go from normal bino-mode, press the button and keep your finger down and the IS engages a moment later. As soon as you lift your finger, the binos go back to normal, traditional view. They offer a 6º field of view, weigh just over 600g and are about 6 inches long.

In this way, I find them more user friendly than conventional binoculars. They give outstanding optical performance and they give a very steady view without the need for extra paraphernalia like mounts, tripods, monopods etc. If you add mounts, tripods, monopods or any other mechanical means of stabilization, you are effectively adding elements to your kit which is something I really wanted to avoid. The Canon 10x30s are small, compact and light, so I can cycle or carry them anywhere I go and just wheel them out when the occassion arises.

After the brief sessions I've had with the bins, it's tricky to see how hand held, non-image stabilized bins are going to be as efficient in observing as image stabilized ones. I am no expert, but I can't stress enough how much difference having a steady view increases detail recognition. Nevertheless, stabilization is not necessary if you don't mind the image jumping all over the field of view or if you're one of those fortunate people who can observe objects steady without stabilization.

Had another little session tonight and apart from the gorgeous rich star fields and open clusters framed solidly in the field of view, I had no problems observing M 71, NGC 6826, splitting Theta Serpentis, Nu Draconis, Delta Lyrae and perhaps sighting a hint of M 27. The only downside to all this is that I still can't figure how I can sketch these wide field, low power wonders when using binos.

So bringing this to some kind of conclusion. The Canon 10x30s will probably set you back the price of a decent eyepiece and based on the reading of literally hundreds of reviews written over the past 14 years, a couple of nights observing and daytime checks, a reduction in price due to the second generation coming out soon, all I can say is that in my own case I find them excellent value and well worth checking out before you buy.

Hope that helps

[jetstream]

Great information Rob, thanks. I've been looking at the Canon IS for a while and your post's are getting me much closer to a purchase.

[Stu]

Great report as ever Rob.

I can only agree with you, the Canon IS system works very well, and cuts out all the high frequency jitters that rob the image of detail.

I have the 15x50IS and they work beautifully both day and night. I can just about split Mizar on a good night, Galilean moons look lovely and under a dark sky as you say, plenty of Messiers are possible which would be far trickier without stabilisation

[RetroArchangel]

I looked at the Cannon 10x30 and 15x50 last year. I am convinced the Cannon IS is the best system on the market, unfortunately it's just not good enough. Having tested both for usability I opted for the 15x50. Not too heavy and I found comfortable to hold.

My first light with the 10x50 was like the first light with my first scope - jaw dropping. The first pair had a periodic high frequency jitter. This gives the impression of focus loss. I started asking about what to expect with the IS system. I couldn't get anybody to confirm whether this was a faulty pair or as good as it gets. I sent them back and requested a new pair. Amazon sent 4 pairs before I had had enough.

I subsequently spoke to an engineer at Cannon's service centre who confirmed the issue was an artefact of the stabilisation system. Some people are more sensitive to it than others.

I wanted to love them, but at £800 a pair they had to be perfect and they weren't. If you are considering a pair if these I urge you to try them first, day and night, or buy from a dealer who will accept them back without any quibble.

Andy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stu]

I looked at the Cannon 10x30 and 15x50 last year. I am convinced the Cannon IS is the best system on the market, unfortunately it's just not good enough. Having tested both for usability I opted for the 15x50. Not too heavy and I found comfortable to hold.

My first light with the 10x50 was like the first light with my first scope - jaw dropping. The first pair had a periodic high frequency jitter. This gives the impression of focus loss. I started asking about what to expect with the IS system. I couldn't get anybody to confirm whether this was a faulty pair or as good as it gets. I sent them back and requested a new pair. Amazon sent 4 pairs before I had had enough.

I subsequently spoke to an engineer at Cannon's service centre who confirmed the issue was an artefact of the stabilisation system. Some people are more sensitive to it than others.

I wanted to love them, but at £800 a pair they had to be perfect and they weren't. If you are considering a pair if these I urge you to try them first, day and night, or buy from a dealer who will accept them back without any quibble.

Andy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you are right that actually the optical performance of these is better with the stabilization off than with it on. If held steadily then Mizar for instance is easier to split with it off than on.

However, overall I think the stabilization has more benefits than drawbacks and I very much enjoy using my binos.

[laudropb]

Thanks for the very informative review. I have looked through a pair when bird watching and they were great. I was just not sure how they good they would be looking at the night sky. I am seriously thinking of investing in a pair. Thanks again.

[niallk]

Very interesting review, and a pleasure to read

I don't get on with my binos on a tripod, and intend on making a 'mirror' mount. Image stabilised binos are something I'd be really keen to try!

[nightfisher]

Qualia, 

Excellent review of an interesting product, thanks for sharing

[Stu]

Very interesting review, and a pleasure to read

I don't get on with my binos on a tripod, and intend on making a 'mirror' mount. Image stabilised binos are something I'd be really keen to try!

I'm a bit odd in that I don't 'get' using binoculars on a tripod. I suppose I feel like if I'm going to the trouble of getting that much kit out I might as well get a scope out. That's why I love the IS bins, they give great, steady views without the effort of a tripod.

[Mr Spock]

I feel the same about my Canon 12x36is. Only 36mm, yes, but they are so much more revealing than standard bins.

There's something special about 'browsing' the sky with is bins. You have complete freedom to go wherever your eye takes you.

[Astrobits]

I have had my 10 x 30IS's  for many years now and they are always to hand  ( except when I chose my 15 x 50IS's ). The 10 x 30's are the smallest optical aid that have shown me M1, the Crab Nebula, to date.

Nigel

[Stu]

I have had my 10 x 30IS's for many years now and they are always to hand ( except when I chose my 15 x 50IS's ). The 10 x 30's are the smallest optical aid that have shown me M1, the Crab Nebula, to date.

Nigel

That's going some Nigel! I managed it (M1) once with my 15x50s and thought I was doing well [emoji3]

[Qualia]

I'm a bit odd in that I don't 'get' using binoculars on a tripod. I suppose I feel like if I'm going to the trouble of getting that much kit out I might as well get a scope out. That's why I love the IS bins, they give great, steady views without the effort of a tripod.

Aye, this was the main reason I went for them: IS bins seem to me to be the ultimate grab n go with the ability to show so much more than traditional binoculars. They might be more pricey than normal bins, they might not be perfect on all accounts (what is?) but in the long run I think it's worth it

I imagine it has nothing to do with the Canon IS per se, but I do notice from time to time a kind of blackening out when I view through them. A quick adjustment and it disappears. I've read that this might be a common feature with binos with too much eye-relief    Has anyone else had this 'problem'?

[brantuk]

+1 for IS bins - I love 'em for the grab 'n' go element and the steady observing - no more stars jumping around in the view. It's also nice to take a break from the scope sometimes and just lay on a camp bed with the bins. Deffo worth it for me. I've never noticed any "black outs" though - maybe a sign the batteries are beginning to run down?

[mce]

I feel the same about my Canon 12x36is. Only 36mm, yes, but they are so much more revealing than standard bins.

There's something special about 'browsing' the sky with is bins. You have complete freedom to go wherever your eye takes you.

Another vote for the 12x36. They seemed expensive at the time, but one can lie about the cost at home, or after a while you can probably get away with "oh, I've had those for years."

Apart from stargazing, they are excellent general purpose bins, and there is no way I could hand hold a pair of 12x without the IS.

[Gfamily]

I bought a pair for my wife a couple of years ago and we're very pleased with them. We've not been to really dark skies with them, so mainly they've been used for birdwatching, but they are excellent when you really want to look in detail - the 'lock' you get with IS switched on means you can really see fine detail.

I took a pair along to the 2013 Peak Star Party, and offered to demonstrate them to anyone who was interested; unfortunately, we were completely rained out that year. 

I've seen some reviews complain that they 'eat' batteries, but we've not had a problem with this - I think we've got almost 2 years out of 3  sets of Low Discharge NiMhs

One thing it's worth noting is that the battery compartment is quite snug, and you may find that some brands of rechargeables get stuck inside.  I found this with one set, and I had to prise them out with a screwdriver - I considered trying to 'tap' the batteries out by inertia, but reckoned that shaking an IS stabilised system to get the batteries out would be too risky. 

My advice would be to check the tightness of the batteries as they go in - if they feel snug as they start to go in, take them out and find another pair of batteries .