No amount of exposure (upto 30s) will bring out single stars?

[Arcturian]

I'm still waiting for my bulb remote to arrive as I had to buy it from overseas, so at the mo I'm stuck with using exposures maxing out at 30s, I could obviously use 'Bulb' but as you all know that's not feasible due to camera shake caused by touching the camera. With this level of exposure I couldn't get any detail from the nights sky, heres 2 images taken at 15 second exposure. I should have taken more careful photos at 30 seconds but the clouds rendered that plan gone to the wind. So I don't quite know what the images below would look like taken @ 30s, but I have a feeling it wouldn't be that much better. You can slightly make out the secondary mirror frame imposed on top of the star in img_1771, I thought the frame caused diffraction spikes rather than being imposed on the star. I know they'd be slightly better with better focus but I couldn't tweak that due to cloud condition

http://s12.postimg.org/3ql3nb765/MG_1771.jpg

http://s11.postimg.org/szrucadn7/MG_1770.jpg

[RichM63]

If that was my web cam I would say it was totally out of focus but that a bright object was present.

Am shortly to find out with a DSLR.

[Cornelius Varley]

From what I tell from the images they appear to be out of focus. Do you have any more info about the photos ? ISO rating, telescope etc.

[Ibbo!]

yep out of focus

[Knight of Clear Skies]

Looks like it's very out of focus to me, the central obstruction wouldn't normally be visible. Please bear in mind, the focus point for the camera won't be the same as an eyepiece. Some scopes don't have enough backfocus for a camera, you might needs an extension tube.

[Stevp]

As above, looks to be a long way from focus

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[hazegood]

agree on the out of focus,

You don't need a remote to use bulb, your camera may have a 2 second setting (my 1100d does not sure if 1000d does)) which means the shutter does not open until 2 seconds after you press the button to take the shot, that's to help reduce camera shake

Cant see why you have to wait from over seas for the remote,  most proper camera shops have generic non branded ones  for around £10, all you need is one that's a canon C6 Connection,

If you want a programmable remote (Intervalometer) then they are more expensive but can still be bought in the UK


 

[happy-kat]

Paid £13 for my programmable intervalometer bargain for what it does.

[D4N]

The scope in your profile may not have enough in focus for a DSLR. Depends on what focuser it has and what adaptors you are using.

Try getting focus on distant objects in the day.

You could try controlling the camera with a laptop, that can alleviate the need for a remote and also speed the whole process up by sending images direct to your hard drive.

Live view is also a lot easier to view on a laptop than on the camera.

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[tingting44]

you can easily see its way out of focus, that is a star what your looking at, just have to bring it into focus, if you can not gain focus try with a x2 barlow and you might be pleasantly surprised

[ronin]

Buy a Shoot Remote Timer from Amazon, or as has been said set the self timer, press button and wait.

At 30 seconds the Canon may also automatically be taking a noise reduction image, which will be 30 seconds also. They normally kick in automatically when the exposure is 1 second or more. No harm just be aware as the "real" exposure time will be 60 seconds therefore.

[Steve Ward]

Alternatively you can plug the camera into a laptop/PC via a long USB lead and control your shutter using the EOSUtilities software that came on the disc with the 1000D.