Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Venus imaged during the afternoon of 20.04.2018.
Although imaged in broad daylight, the very short exposures required, just a couple of miliseconds, means the sky looks black. Such short exposures are required to prevent the image over exposing as Venus is so bright.
Celestron 8SE and QHY5L-II monochrome camera with Celestron LX 2 x barlow.
AVI stacked in Registax with minor adjustments in wavelets.
No post-processing other than a slight crop.
So six months after I put my order in, the new design TEC 160FL was delivered today.
First impressions are that it's got that typical TEC quality with excellent finish. I hope the views match this. I was hoping to try it out tonight but forecast not looking good.
This was the first TEC 160FL the dealer had sold and even he was surprised how portable it was for a 160mm refractor. It's a bit chunky though! I've put a few photos below including a comparison with the AP130GTX to give an indication of size.
Now I just need those clouds to clear...
What am I doing wrong to get planetary images like these attached?
Or maybe I should be asking what am I actually doing right?
I've tried a few times to images planets with my QHY5L-ii mono camera through the C9.25 both with and without IR/UV block filter and get the same blurred results every time.
I've checked collimation, and focus using a star mask. It's pretty good really, and I know the camera works fine because I've used it to get some good lunar shots.
I'm imaging thought sharpcap software and have processed the images with registax or autostakkert and get very similar results. Is there anything obvious that I'm missing??
All suggestions welcome, thanks!
Hi everybody!! Just joined after lurking for a year.
I have done the filter removal as instructed by Gary Honis and was satisfied with the results. Only one thing I'm wanting to learn and that's how to do a cold finger mod on my canon 1000d.
I have found some links, but mostly any instructions I've found were outdated and removed from the web, so it's been difficult to find a mod to my liking with detailed step by step and supply list.
One of my main concerns is that I still want to use the side of my camera that has usb and the input for my intervalometer (currently unguided with no laptop).
I can do without live view as long as I can still connect the dslr to my phone on dslr controller for a bigger more comfortable live view.
Anyways I really need help in the right instructions to get this done. Any links, videos, or experienced instructions would be a big help and I would be very thankful for.
I'd also like to add that I would like to go light weight on the mod, so i don't have much trouble balancing the es 80mm triplet on an Orion sirius.
Trying my best at a budget to defeat the Texas summer.
By Spaced Out
Novice alert !
I’ve just bought a 2nd hand QHY5L-II-C to use for autoguiding with PHD2. I plugged it in today for a quick test and I am little disappointed that it seems to have quite a few hot/stuck pixels.
I thought that the dark library or bad pixel map functions in PHD would solve this problem and clean up the image a bit, but they both seem to make things a lot worse. The results don’t seem at all smooth and they look more like a blizzard of white dots, is that normal ?
I’m a complete beginner with this so I’m sure I’ve probably done something stupid to get these results. I did follow the PHD manual instructions tho (I think).
Any thoughts/advice on where I am going wrong ?