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Atik 314L+ advice needed

andyo

By andyo
in Discussions - Cameras

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andyo

andyo

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Hi been thinking its time to move into ccd cameras.Why? various reasons not least cash (which I have just received a small amount enough to get a reasonable ccd camera and accesories)and also I believe it is the best way forward to improve image quality as well as flexibility.I have decided on a mono rather than OSC with a motorised filter wheel and filters.

My scopes are both skywtcher a 200p and an ed80 pro with sw0.85x reducer/flattener.

I know important things to look at are QE,set point cooling, readout noise as well as the FOV.I enjoy imaging nebula and galaxies.with these considerations in mind I am now looking at two cameras both atik who have a good reputation are well supported and highly spoken about.

The main contender is the atik 314L+ because it gives a decent FOV with the ed80 and If I am right will also be good for the 200p(for galaxies mainly).It has set point coolng and a good QE response.The second contender is the Atik 428ex while this has a better QE response and would be good for the ED80 I am not sure it would be any good for the 200p.

I noticed the 428 has a desiccant port and the 314 doesnt.Can anyone tell me why this is not required for the 314 or is it simply a cost reducing thing.Also there is an option to buy with a Xagyl 5 position usb motorised filter wheel or the atik 9 position EFW2 usb filter wheel. The Xagyl claims to be ultra thin and doesnt require a seperate power supply.Would like to continue to use my reducer/Flattener if possible.

I am interested to hear anyones opinion regarding camera or filter wheels.Sorry for the longwinded post but want to get as much advice as possible

as am totaly new to ccds and dont want to make a mistake when spending this much cash.

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andyo

andyo

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Is the ATik 314L+ any good for planetary/solar work?

I dont know but I think it is mainly for dso's,i think with planetary work you should be looking at high frame rate and high resolution however I am not a planetary/solar imager and there are others on here far more knowledgable than myself who could point you in the right direction regarding the best planetary cameras

I'm a happy ATiK314L+ user...never had an issue with the lack of dessicant...

I also use the ATiK EFW -again no issues.

These are used on the C11 for spectroscopy.

Thanks for the reply Merlin I am not familiar with the C11 what f rato would that be and is does that give a similar FOV as the ED80.I do like the tech specs given for the 314L+

and am pleased to hear that a lack of dessicant has not been an issue.Does the 314L+ require a heating up period when ending the session to prevent moisture build up.

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Merlin66

Merlin66

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The Celestron SCT C11 is an f10 system (f6.3 with reducer)

IMHO the ATiK, being a cooled CCD is far more suited to long exposures required for DSO (and spectroscopy).

I would recommend a DMK for planetary.

I've never bothered about the heating up period in the five years I've been using the ATiK's and have experienced no fogging etc problems....

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swag72

swag72

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The Atik 314L+ and and ED80 is a great field of view for starters. The change in chip size from a DSLR to a 314L+ is huge, so just check that you really are happy with the chip size. I use a Trutek filter wheel, with 8 carousel slots, so all my filters fit in. Mine is manual, but you can get a USB one as well.

The lack of dessicant does not seem to be an issue for me. ALl in all, it's a great camera and I love mine. Low noise, no darks needed and sensitive as hell.

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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These cameras are not planetary or solar. For that you need a fast frame camera but these aren't expensive. A used DMK will go for about £150 and they are superb.

The switch to external dessicant chambers is a recent Atik thing and, while it's a nice touch, it's not at all important. (I've had a couple of 11000s here recently. One had the external port and one didn't. No big deal.)

Why don't they just state the chip sizes in mm?? GRRRR! If I were you I wouldn't consider the electric wheel if it meant compromising on the camera. A manual wheel is perfectly OK. Nearly all my images are done with a manual wheel. If that meant you could run to the 460 then, for me, it would be an absolute no-brainer. The EFW2 is lovely but more chip size is a lot lovelier.

I rate Atik highly. I'm having issues with the 11000 but Atik are 100% behind me and all the other Atiks I've had here (eight, I think...) have been tip-top. I'd be very reluctant to go anwhere else, myself.

I also think you are dead right to go into CCD.

Olly

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andyo

andyo

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Thanks for the replies and advice.Olly I agree it would be so much help to have the chip size in mm I am not sure my funds will sretch to the 460 but I think it will be an atik camera whichever one I choose

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Gina

Gina

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As I've said many times on here - I'm delighted with my 314L+. I might have gone for a bigger Atik mono CCD if I had plenty of money. If you like hands-on, I agree, a manual wheel would be the thing. I like automation and being able to leave things running while I do other things (I'm short of time as well as money) so went for a USB coltrolled wheel. If going this route I thoroughly recommend the Atik EFW2 - a top-notch wheel, beautifully designed and made and it runs off the Artemis Capture software supplied with Atik cameras. The all Atik combination works extremely well and is easy to use. The software can be set up to run other devices via ASCOM control as well though I've not yet tried that.

With suitable adapters and extension rings I have my Atik setup working with ED80, ED80 with 0.85 FR/FF and various second hand Pentax thread lenses giving me a large choice of FOV. I don't use an OAG but a separate guiding system of ST80, QHY5 and PHD software.

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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I have an EFW2 as well and agree that it's super but I still think of it as a luxury. I take Nick's point about babysitting but it isn't always necessary on our setups. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't, but that's IT controlled stuff for you. It's best to be on the lookout for focus drift, lost guidestars, mount collisions, snagged cables, unwanted Windows updates, USB errors, power cuts, clouds, cats, sleepwalking astronomers bumping the mount, Police officers with torches helping lost guests...*

Not putting you off, am I??? :grin::eek::grin:

Olly

*We really have had all these. The sleepwalker was me!

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johnrt

johnrt

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I'm a manual filter wheel man myself - I like to shoot my subs in batches, spend a couple of hours on each filter. It means I don't get an image to show after a single night, but the amount of exposure time I plan to spend on each target means I wouldn't be finished in a night anyway so I'm not bothered about that.

I think my Atik 314l+ is the bees knees, I moved up to CCD from a DSLR in Sept 2010 and have never looked back. I would go out and buy another one exactly the same if anything happened to my 314l+ - love it to bits.

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Gina

Gina

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Thanks Gina,how do you attach the FR 0.85x to the ccd and filter wheel while mantaining the correct distance.

I worked out that I needed 11.5mm extra spacing to get the 55mm needed between FR and sensor. To get this I bought an 8mm and a 3mm T2 extension tube and used a delrin spacer of 0.6mm to get as near as possible. Have to say though that I haven't yet actually tried it on a DSO but it seems fine on a terrestrial view. I need a clear night sky without the moon virtually on top of what I want to image :D
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Sp@ce_d

Sp@ce_d

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Is the ATik 314L+ any good for planetary/solar work?

I'm another very satisfied 314L+ & EFW2 owner.. I tried it out on Lunar a couple of nights ago in frustration at a typical clear sky but the moon flooding the targets!.. not too bad

Atik 314L+/ZS66 LRGB x100 shortest exposures in artemis capture

post-11176-0-25427100-1361667629_thumb.j

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Sp@ce_d

Sp@ce_d

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I use it on my ZS66 as it's a closer match to the DSLR / 80ED. As I normally use 'em together as a dual shooter it gives me a closer match when /if I combine them using RegiStar. Also the ZS66 is faster than the 80 but really it depends on your target.. right now I'm wishing I had a longer FL scope for the smaller stuff for Galaxy season so I'll probably switch it to the 80 unless the lottery comes up quick.. :grin:

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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It doesn't matter what camera or scope you are using, the available FOV for the chip depends on focal length and chip size and nothing else. You pays your money...

The ZS66 with its reducer has a shorter FL than the ED80 and gives very tight narrowand images but in broadband (ie normal colour) the ED80 blows it out of the water in terms of star size. The 66 is a truly brave little scope but in broadband the stars are quite big, or so I always found.

Olly

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