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Atik 314L+ advice needed


andyo

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It doesn't matter what camera or scope you are using, the available FOV for the chip depends on focal length and chip size and nothing else. You pays your money...

The ZS66 with its reducer has a shorter FL than the ED80 and gives very tight narrowand images but in broadband (ie normal colour) the ED80 blows it out of the water in terms of star size. The 66 is a truly brave little scope but in broadband the stars are quite big, or so I always found.

Olly

Interesting to hear that about the ZS66 Olly. I've been struggling a bit with processing LRGB of M81/82. It's the first decent amount of data on the 314L+/ZS66 combo I've had (8hrs) and wondered why it looked soft and the larger stars so bloated.. kept thinking focus had shifted but every time I checked with the Bahtinov it looked fine. Guess I'll move it to the ED80... or get a 2nd 314L+ :grin:

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I noticed the 428 has a desiccant port and the 314 doesnt.Can anyone tell me why this is not required for the 314 or is it simply a cost reducing thing.

All Atik cameras have desiccant but with the 314L+ it rarely needs changing so they haven't fitted a screw-cap desiccant chamber. If it does require changing you need to remove the back, your supplier will be able to provide instructions and desiccant if required.

Worth noting that if a 314L+ does ice up then change the desiccant asap because the Sony 285 sensor doesn't like ice! This applies to any other camera with the Sony 285 sensor, not only Atik.

HTH,

Steve

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All Atik cameras have desiccant but with the 314L+ it rarely needs changing so they haven't fitted a screw-cap desiccant chamber. If it does require changing you need to remove the back, your supplier will be able to provide instructions and desiccant if required.

Worth noting that if a 314L+ does ice up then change the desiccant asap because the Sony 285 sensor doesn't like ice! This applies to any other camera with the Sony 285 sensor, not only Atik.

HTH,

Steve

Oh.. This might sound like a silly question but.. I normally run mine at -20. How do you tell if it's icing up? If its permanently installed in an obsy you wouldn't be looking in the sensor window after every session. I take it the image would deteriorate... such as fogging, but would it be obvious and not mistaken for high level moisture in the air for instance?

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Interesting to hear that about the ZS66 Olly. I've been struggling a bit with processing LRGB of M81/82. It's the first decent amount of data on the 314L+/ZS66 combo I've had (8hrs) and wondered why it looked soft and the larger stars so bloated.. kept thinking focus had shifted but every time I checked with the Bahtinov it looked fine. Guess I'll move it to the ED80... or get a 2nd 314L+ :grin:

There's a lot you can do in processing. In galaxy images where we have what is obviously just background sky without nebulosity I do this;

-Make a fully stretched LRGB image with big stars.

-make a special stretch of the RGB only layer, flattening the curve very early something like this; http://ollypenrice.s...s...&lb=1&s=A��

The slight droop in the straight line to the top isn't supposed to be there!!!)

-Get this RGB stretch to the point where the background sky has exactly the same appearance as the LRGB by measuring it with the eyedropper. It will have nice small, colourful stars, though.

-Paste the RGB 'small star' image on top of the LRGB, set the opacity to zero, and then use a soft edged eraser to remove it wherever you have galaxy or faint fuzzy on the layer below.

-Make the top layer fully opaque again and flatten.

This Quintet image had the socks stretched off it for the faint fuzzies but the starfield is RGB only, as described above, with the softest of stretches.

http://ollypenrice.s...nCj8TC&lb=1&s=A

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That's brilliant Olly :) Must take a look at that - though my stars aren't too bad with the ED80 if I'm careful with the processing. I use the same curves approach - sharp rise then flat. Sometimes I end up with the most peculiar shaped curve when adjusting the various levels in the image. Curves is such a useful tool :)

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Steve,

I hadn't hear of a dessicant "plug" in the ATiK314l+.....

Are the replacement details available as a PDF anywhere....

The replacement details aren't available as a pdf, if you would like details please email :smiley:

My comment about the 314L+ not having an exterior screw-cap desiccant chamber needs updating. Apparently Atik were recently asked to make a quantity of 314L+ (for scientific measurement, not astronomy) with easily accessible desiccant chambers. So they did. I have just checked our stock, the ones here on our shelf have the same new desiccant chamber. So, if you already own a 314L+ and need to change the desiccant please contact your dealer for advice. If you have only recently purchased a 314L+, or are about to purchase one, then it will probably have the new desiccant chamber shown in our photo below.

Oh.. This might sound like a silly question but.. I normally run mine at -20. How do you tell if it's icing up? If its permanently installed in an obsy you wouldn't be looking in the sensor window after every session. I take it the image would deteriorate... such as fogging, but would it be obvious and not mistaken for high level moisture in the air for instance?

It happens quickly, lasting only a few minutes. The ice starts at the edge of the sensor so the first thing you'll notice is a clear centre with defocused ice around the edge. That will quickly cover the sensor but then will disappear as the ice moves from the sensor to the colder aluminium 'cold-frame' (the aluminium panel behind the sensor).

Don't be over concerned, it is very rare for a 314L+ to ice up.

HTH,

Steve

atik_314l_desiccant_chamber.JPG

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Thanks for the info on the dessicant Steve.

BTW love my EFW2 filter wheel but a little heavy for the naff Revelation crayford focuser I tried it with on my C8, I need a R&P type I think!

Steve

Does that mean it will be to heavy on the ed80 crayford focuser (dual speed)

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Thanks for the info on the dessicant Steve.

Does that mean it will be to heavy on the ed80 crayford focuser (dual speed)

I have just recently adjusted my focuser on the ED80, and tested it by hanging it upside down holding the focuser. Not even the slightest slippage. It is not done up too tight, just properly! :rolleyes:
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I have just recently adjusted my focuser on the ED80, and tested it by hanging it upside down holding the focuser. Not even the slightest slippage. It is not done up too tight, just properly! :rolleyes:

Thanks for info kingboya.

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Thanks everyone Atik 314L+ and EFW2 now ordered from FLO

I worked out that I needed 11.5mm extra spacing to get the 55mm needed between FR and sensor. To get this I bought an 8mm and a 3mm T2 extension tube and used a delrin spacer of 0.6mm to get as near as possible. Have to say though that I haven't yet actually tried it on a DSO but it seems fine on a terrestrial view. I need a clear night sky without the moon virtually on top of what I want to image :D

Gina I believe I need a M48 to m54 adapter to attach the filter wheel to the reducer.How did you attach your extension tube to the reducer or did you manage to get one of these adapters.Sorry Gina but these extension tubes are a nightmare there seems to be so many different types

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The replacement details aren't available as a pdf, if you would like details please email :smiley:

My comment about the 314L+ not having an exterior screw-cap desiccant chamber needs updating. Apparently Atik were recently asked to make a quantity of 314L+ (for scientific measurement, not astronomy) with easily accessible desiccant chambers. So they did. I have just checked our stock, the ones here on our shelf have the same new desiccant chamber. So, if you already own a 314L+ and need to change the desiccant please contact your dealer for advice. If you have only recently purchased a 314L+, or are about to purchase one, then it will probably have the new desiccant chamber shown in our photo below.

It happens quickly, lasting only a few minutes. The ice starts at the edge of the sensor so the first thing you'll notice is a clear centre with defocused ice around the edge. That will quickly cover the sensor but then will disappear as the ice moves from the sensor to the colder aluminium 'cold-frame' (the aluminium panel behind the sensor).

Don't be over concerned, it is very rare for a 314L+ to ice up.

HTH,

Steve

Thanks for the info Steve. Got mine from you last Nov & I did notice it came with a spare plug? I take it that's not loaded with desiccant (its quite thick) that it's just a cap & the desiccant is loose inside a chamber then? There's no mention of this in the manuals or website as far as I've looked.... nice to hear it's unusual for them to ice up... that's another plus going for it on top of the no darks required. I'm well pleased with it BTW.. Thank goodness we have an informed dealer.. :smiley:

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Steve,

email sent re desiccant access on older cameras......

Thanks for the info Steve. Got mine from you last Nov & I did notice it came with a spare plug? I take it that's not loaded with desiccant (its quite thick) that it's just a cap & the desiccant is loose inside a chamber then? There's no mention of this in the manuals or website as far as I've looked.... nice to hear it's unusual for them to ice up... that's another plus going for it on top of the no darks required. I'm well pleased with it BTW.. Thank goodness we have an informed dealer.. :smiley:

The desiccant is in tablet form for easy replacement.

I hesitate to say this because I don't want to encourage people to change their desiccant unnecessarily, but here goes :smiley:

If your 314L+ has an externally accessible desiccant chamber then simply unscrew the screw-cap, remove the old tablet and pop in a new one.

If you own one of the earlier models without an externally accessible desiccant chamber then you need to do the following: Remove the four retaining screws from the rear panel then gently lift it (it has a circuit board attached so cannot be completely removed) until you can see the black (occasionally silver) desiccant chamber screw-cap. Remove the screw-cap to change the desiccant tablet then refit the screw-cap and rear panel.

A few notes:

An Atik 314L+ will easily go 5-6 years before needing a new desiccant tablet.

You don't actually need a 'new' tablet, you can dry the old one on a radiator then reuse it. Indeed tests have shown a dried tablet actually lasts longer than a new tablet so if you are fitting a new tablet we recommend drying it first. (Atik dry the tablets before fitting them during manufacture).

We supply desiccant tablets free of charge.

If you are uncomfortable changing the desiccant tablet we will happily do it for you free of charge (assuming you purchased the camera from us).

HTH,

Steve

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----------------- snip -----------

A few notes:

An Atik 314L+ will easily go 5-6 years before needing a new desiccant tablet.

You don't actually need a 'new' tablet, you can dry the old one on a radiator then reuse it. Indeed tests have shown a dried tablet actually lasts longer than a new tablet so if you are fitting a new tablet we recommend drying it first. (Atik dry the tablets before fitting them during manufacture).

We supply desiccant tablets free of charge.

If you are uncomfortable changing the desiccant tablet we will happily do it for you free of charge (assuming you purchased the camera from us).

HTH,

Steve

Now you can't get better service than that can you! :icon_salut:

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