Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Gina]

Hello Gina,

Looking good, I'm sure you will have no problem removing that bity of epoxy with a bit of patience.

Don't rush, take your time.

Cheers,

Thank you Luis

Yes, I shall take it very carefully and I'm pretty sure the epoxy will come off with the CFA.

[Gina]

When the time comes I would be tempted to fracture the surface of that little piece of epoxy to weaken it and try to control where it breaks. It would be just a touch annoying if it broke off and snapped one of the gold wires at the same time.

James

Very good point James - thank you

[Gina]

Just a thought: Do you think the CFA or ML could be peeled off using something sticky?

The epoxy and foam pads were give me the idea

Possibly, but I think it could be risky - the CFA might be more securely attached to the MOSFETs than the MOSFETs are to the rest. If, when I test the sensor tomorrow, I find I've already killed it, I might give that a try and see what happens but if all's well I won't risk it. In any case if it does work with the 350D it still might not with the 1100D. Edited August 14, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

I checked the sensor and the epoxy has set so I took a toothpick and removed a bit of the splodge of epoxy on the sensor at the edge. This came off easily being soft so I went ahead and removed the rest - well most of it, just leaving a thin film on the CFA.

[Gina]

While I'm waiting for the Araldite on the 350D sensor to harden I'm assembling the 1100D sufficiently to check that the sensor and everything else is working on that. If all's well I'll strip it down again ready to remove the cover glass from the sensor.

Later... 1100D working fine including the sensor and have stripped it down again to the sensor assembly with the sensor and cover glass exposed. All ready to attack the bond with heat

Edited August 14, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

The epoxy has now set hard and I'll be re-assembling the camera to check that the sensor is still working despite the "cooking".

[Gina]

IT WORKS No damage caused by removing the glass and applying epoxy resin to the gold wires Some epoxy resin encroached onto the edge of the working area of the sensor as can be seen at the top of the photo below - not enough to worry about though. So far so good

Here's another photo, looking out of the window (some reflections), stretched in Ps as the original was very light.

Edited August 15, 2013 by Gina

[JamesF]

That's excellent news

James

[Gina]

Thank you James It's certainly a big relief I think I feel sufficiently confident to attempt to remove the cover glass on the 1100D sensor now

[Chris]

Well done thats great news! Are you planning on finishing the debayer on the 350D before starting on the 1100D?

[Gina]

Well done thats great news! Are you planning on finishing the debayer on the 350D before starting on the 1100D?

Thanks Chris I'm waiting for a diamond lapping tool to arrive in the post so that I can grind a fine and level chisel edge on my copper "debayering tool" before attempting CFA removal, so I'm going ahead with removing the cover glass on the 1100D sensor now that I know these sensors can stand a reasonable amount of heat. Still taking it very carefully though.

[Gina]

Proceeding successfully so far - the bond is broken around part of the way round as can be seen by the diffraction fringes in this photo. Stretched in Ps to bring this out clearer. This sensor is not getting as hot as the other because the cold finger is taking the heat away. (This is the sensor from my "super cooled" 1100D.)

Edited August 15, 2013 by Gina

[flolic]

Great!

Gina, you can try to force thin razor blade under that white corner of the sensor, and then continue to apply heat around the edge.

[flolic]

I applied epoxy to my 450D sensor

[Gina]

Great!

Gina, you can try to force thin razor blade under that white corner of the sensor, and then continue to apply heat around the edge.

I did think of that but don't want to break the glass if I can help it in case it falls inwards and breaks the gold wires. Could stick a sticky pad on it I guess, leaving the still bonded area. Thanks for the suggestion

Edited August 15, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

Applied a bit more heat and spread the fringing all round. Then applied sticky pad and went round the edge of the glass with a needle and finally with the tip of a craft knife. I gradually worked round the edge just lifting the edge by a hair's bredth until i got all round and the glass came away Glass is now off and still in one piece without so much as a crack or chip Much easier than the 350D

[russellhq]

Congrats! Want to do mine next?

[Kbramley]

_{Expertly done Gina, bet that was a relief}

[Gina]

Congrats! Want to do mine next?

If I did it would have to be at your risk - I'm taking on enough risk doing my own

[Gina]

_{Expertly done Gina, bet that was a relief}

Thank you Yes it was

[alistairsam]

Applied a bit more heat and spread the fringing all round. Then applied sticky pad and went round the edge of the glass with a needle and finally with the tip of a craft knife. I gradually worked round the edge just lifting the edge by a hair's bredth until i got all round and the glass came away Glass is now off and still in one piece without so much as a crack or chip Much easier than the 350D

well done. I guess it paid to practise on the 350.

how long do you heat each spot and do you know what the temp was for the heat gun?

once it turns white, can you see the gap between the glass and the frame?

cheers

Alistair

[alistairsam]

I applied epoxy to my 450D sensor

hi

does the weight of an epoxy drop move the golden wire at all?

how did you apply the epoxy?

cheers

Alistair

[Gina]

Back to the 350D. The diamond lapping tool which was supposed to be very fine, isn't! In fact it's coarser than the 280 grade wet-n-dry paper I've got So I'm making do with the latter. Been using the copper tool to remove the CFA in a couple of places. It's not very flat - I'm no expert at this - but with just gently pressure I seem to be able to get the CFA off without scratching. At least, I can't see any and I've taken photos and blown them up and stretched and sharpened in Ps at least as much as before

[JamesF]

does the weight of an epoxy drop move the golden wire at all?

how did you apply the epoxy?

I can see the prices of dead Canon cameras suddenly going up on ebay and no-one but us will know why: they're all being used for CFA removal practice

James

[Gina]

well done. I guess it paid to practise on the 350.

how long do you heat each spot and do you know what the temp was for the heat gun?

once it turns white, can you see the gap between the glass and the frame?

cheers

Alistair

Thank you Yes, it helps to get practice on something of lower value

Probably less than a second on each spot - I move gradually around the edge of the glass taking probably 10-15s all told. The temperature is sufficient to turn the copper nozzle grey and you can see the element in the gun glowing red hot. So it's pretty hot. Not definite answer I'm afraid. The 350D turned white but the 1100D didn't but you could see diffraction patterns as I said and showed in the photos