Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[flolic]

Gina, why don't you remove sensor from that metal frame?

That will make your life much easier.

[Gina]

I had a problem with the sensor and spring clips being glued firmly to the metal frame. However, I have now broken the glue joints and taken the sensor off the frame so can get to the edge of the glass where it meets the sensor.

[Rottweiler]

then again maybe a very fine small scratch is enough to kill it, if that's the case we are in trouble...:/

Yup! :/

Also, have you considered making a scraper out of lead? It's nice and soft compared to silicon.

Lead won't work, we tried it. Besides it not holding an edge for long and being toxic, it also galls onto the surface and is very hard to remove. The huge lead atoms also make a pretty sturdy light shield.

I now have white all round the glass but I can't prise it off using reasonable force - just tiny semi-circular slivers of glass cracked off the surface at the edge. I dare not use any more force or I'll crack the glass. Would it help to use any more heat? Anyone?

Once the bond is broken you can remove it as you would a sensor out of a 450D, by running a scalpel or stanley blade around it until it pops off. I also agree with Luis about the frame, it will make getting under the glass easier.

Does anyone plan to try out our abrasion method? Glad to see the epoxy and heating working already

[Gina]

I was a bit bothered about how hot the sensor got but OTOH it wasn't too hot to touch, just too hot to put a finger on for more than a fraction of a second. As I recall, silicon chips are rated up to 125C when not working so maybe I'm being just a bit of a worrier

Now the sensor is off the frame I'll be having another go at removing the glass in one piece. I wondered about testing it again at that stage but I think I would be risking the gold wires so I think it better to go ahead and drip epoxy near them and let it run into place. Then put it away carefully and test it tomorrow. Plenty of patience required

Edited August 14, 2013 by Gina

[Rottweiler]

Plenty of patience required

Yay! I think we just found a positive point to spending so much time waiting for clouds to clear. Amateur astronomy has done wonders for my patience

[Psychobilly]

The higher MP sensors from the 550D onwards include micro lensing layer to improve the "efficiency" I wonder if this makes the job harder on these sensors...

I have a full spectrum 350D that doesn't get used much these days so might have to give this a go... I have one of the 10x 30x bino microscopes that Cath recommended in another thread so would probably try working under that...

UQG are very handy for all sorts of custom glass and exotic optical materials- in a past life we spent a lot of money with them each year making thousands of custom filters for us... I wonder if any of my old contacts are still there...?

Peter...

[Gina]

I've been attacking the glass with a thin craft knife and so far all I've managed is to break off small pieces along the edge I think I can confirm what others have found with this model - it's virtually impossible to get the glass off in one piece. Maybe it doesn't matter all that much but it's essential to avoid any possibility of any of it going inwards as the gold wires are very close to the glass. I have FAILED to remove the glass in one piece - the challenge now is to remove it without damaging the wires.

[Gina]

It's OFF I went all round the bond with a needle removing some of the glue then I tried the craft knife again. This time it popped of - in sections The sticky pad held the pieces together and close examination shows that all the gold wires are intact

Edited August 14, 2013 by Gina

[alistairsam]

It's OFF I went all round the bond with a needle removing some of the glue then I tried the craft knife again. This time it popped of - in sections The sticky pad held the pieces together and close examination shows that all the gold wires are intact

well done.

persistence had finally paid off.

did you continue the heating with the sticky tape on?

now we need a chemical analysis of that glue holding the glass down:-)

if you're using epoxy, tricky bit would be avoiding the sensor area

look forward to the debayered 1100d

cheers

Alistair

[Gina]

well done.

persistence had finally paid off.

Yes. Thank you

did you continue the heating with the sticky tape on?

Yes, and it caused the foam pad to shrivel up a bit

now we need a chemical analysis of that glue holding the glass down:-)

Yes, that would be good

if you're using epoxy, tricky bit would be avoiding the sensor area

I'm planning to drip it onto the bigger pads and let it run over to the sensor but it needs to go over the edge of the sensor a little as the gold wires are attached to the sensor and go upwards a bit before bending over and down onto the bigger pads. It will certainly require extreme care but I think it's less risky than leaving the wires unprotected.

look forward to the debayered 1100d

Yes, me too

[Rottweiler]

The higher MP sensors from the 550D onwards include micro lensing layer to improve the "efficiency" I wonder if this makes the job harder on these sensors...

You should see the results when you put the sensor back in once the microlenses are gone but the bayer remains, the drop in sensitivity is quite surprising. Microlenses are great! The increase in sensitivity from removing the bayer shows just how much light is being sapped away by the mask.

It's OFF I went all round the bond with a needle removing some of the glue then I tried the craft knife again. This time it popped of - in sections The sticky pad held the pieces together and close examination shows that all the gold wires are intact

Looking good, Gina

[Gina]

Thank you Yes, slow but sure progress - the way to go

[Gina]

The epoxy is applied No wires broken and all wires fully covered It was more difficult than I expected. The mixed epoxy was rather stiff and not much better when warmed up a bit. It wouldn't drip so I had to very carefully apply the droop on the end of a wooden toothpick to the sensor frame and again very carefully drag it along the edge of the wires while gently turning it. I did this under a 3x illuminated magnifier and my fingers looked as if I suffered from Parkinson's Still with a great lot of patience I succeeded. However, on lifting the pick away from the sensor a little whisker of glue dropped onto the sensor I wasn't pleased but then realised that it's on top of the CFA and should come off with that. Now I'm sitting down with a cuppa while my nerves recover!!

[Astroscot2]

Well done Gina, loving the dedication to this task. fingers and toes crossed for you.

[Gina]

Thank you

[pixueto]

The epoxy is applied No wires broken and all wires fully covered It was more difficult than I expected. The mixed epoxy was rather stiff and not much better when warmed up a bit. It wouldn't drip so I had to very carefully apply the droop on the end of a wooden toothpick to the sensor frame and again very carefully drag it along the edge of the wires while gently turning it. I did this under a 3x illuminated magnifier and my fingers looked as if I suffered from Parkinson's Still with a great lot of patience I succeeded. However, on lifting the pick away from the sensor a little whisker of glue dropped onto the sensor I wasn't pleased but then realised that it's on top of the CFA and should come off with that. Now I'm sitting down with a cuppa while my nerves recover!!

It's looking really good Gina. Well done! I'm thinking that, before applying the epoxy, maybe it would be a good idea to cover the sensor with something cut to size to just leave the golden connectors visible -maybe a piece of plastic/cardboard?

How are you going to debayer the sensor now? I wonder whether the solvent suggested by Rottweiler would remove the CFA without scrapping and without going into the silicone bed. That would be something!

Edited August 14, 2013 by pixueto

[alistairsam]

The epoxy is applied No wires broken and all wires fully covered It was more difficult than I expected. The mixed epoxy was rather stiff and not much better when warmed up a bit. It wouldn't drip so I had to very carefully apply the droop on the end of a wooden toothpick to the sensor frame and again very carefully drag it along the edge of the wires while gently turning it. I did this under a 3x illuminated magnifier and my fingers looked as if I suffered from Parkinson's Still with a great lot of patience I succeeded. However, on lifting the pick away from the sensor a little whisker of glue dropped onto the sensor I wasn't pleased but then realised that it's on top of the CFA and should come off with that. Now I'm sitting down with a cuppa while my nerves recover!!

well done and I hope that epoxy scrapes off and doesnt stay stuck to the sides.

personally I'd prefer no glue at all cause if the tool is narrow and you're working with a microscope, you can start debayering from the centre and work your way to the edges.

but that's me. although strengthening those wires is a good idea.

when's first light expected Gina?

[alistairsam]

It's looking really good Gina. Well done! I'm thinking that, before applying the epoxy, maybe it would be a good idea to cover the sensor with something cut to size to just leave the golden connectors visible -maybe a piece of plastic/cardboard?

I'd say thats a lot more riskier if its unsecured. it could easily slide to the wires

[pixueto]

BTW If I apply the solvent to the sensor, would that also remove epoxy?

[Luis Campos]

The epoxy is applied No wires broken and all wires fully covered It was more difficult than I expected. The mixed epoxy was rather stiff and not much better when warmed up a bit. It wouldn't drip so I had to very carefully apply the droop on the end of a wooden toothpick to the sensor frame and again very carefully drag it along the edge of the wires while gently turning it. I did this under a 3x illuminated magnifier and my fingers looked as if I suffered from Parkinson's Still with a great lot of patience I succeeded. However, on lifting the pick away from the sensor a little whisker of glue dropped onto the sensor I wasn't pleased but then realised that it's on top of the CFA and should come off with that. Now I'm sitting down with a cuppa while my nerves recover!!

Hello Gina,

Looking good, I'm sure you will have no problem removing that bity of epoxy with a bit of patience.

Don't rush, take your time.

Cheers,

[Gina]

It's looking really good Gina. Well done! I'm thinking that, before applying the epoxy, maybe it would be a good idea to cover the sensor with something cut to size to just leave the golden connectors visible -maybe a piece of plastic/cardboard?

How are you going to debayer the sensor now? I wonder whether the solvent suggested by Rottweiler would remove the CFA without scrapping and without going into the silicone bed. That would be something!

Thank you

The problem with covering the sensor is that it would be all too easy to catch the wires while fitting it - too risky.

Solvent could be used on this sensor but won't work for the 1100D. OK so I could do that in this case but the idea is to use this as a test/practice sensor before tackling the more costly 1100D sensor.

I have ordered a diamond lapping pad which should come tomorrow so will try sharpening the copper to a chisel edge.

The sensor is now in a dustproof box until tomorrow when the epoxy should be set

[JamesF]

When the time comes I would be tempted to fracture the surface of that little piece of epoxy to weaken it and try to control where it breaks. It would be just a touch annoying if it broke off and snapped one of the gold wires at the same time.

James

[Gina]

well done

Thank you

when's first light expected Gina?

That depends on how things go

[russellhq]

Just a thought: Do you think the CFA or ML could be peeled off using something sticky?

The epoxy and foam pads were give me the idea

[Gina]

BTW If I apply the solvent to the sensor, would that also remove epoxy?

It might creep under the epoxy as it dissolves the CFA possibly.