Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[flolic]

I just finished applying epoxy around all the edges. I covered every little bit of sensor except light sensitive area.

I just hope this one will be fine...

[Gina]

1100D working fine pre CFA removal

[Gina]

1100D before CFA removal and after starting. I need to sort out the exposure though these are 1/4000 th sec and ISO 100 so I need a slower lens than f4. I'm using a Canon zoom lens which doesn't have a manual iris so maybe I'll dig out and adapter and put an M42 manual lens on it - they go down to f16 or f22

[JamesF]

What are the lines in the second image, GIna? There's one vertical and three horizontal that I can see, two of them close together.

James

[Gina]

I'm not sure James they seem different in every exposure so I think it might be some sort of interference - I didn't put all the screws or screens back.

[Gina]

Hmm... they look the same in this shot

I'm also getting a couple of lines in live view but they are in totally different places.

[JamesF]

Well, not much you can do but carry on, I guess...

James

[Gina]

I've stripped the camera down again and applied epoxy resin to the sides of the sensor.

I plan to continue removing the CFA on this sensor very carefully, trying not to scratch the surface. It's possible that these lines are caused by going too far below the CFA. I'll do some more renmoval as I have been doing and see if more lines appear. If so an alternative approach will be needed.

I have bid on an 1100D non-working camera believed to be suffering from a duff shutter and have won at £83 plus £6.50 carriage.

Canon EOS 1100D EF-S 18-55 111 kit (spares and repairs)

So I will be getting an 1100D sensor for a reasonable price

Edited August 16, 2013 by Gina

[JamesF]

If the lens works you can probably re-sell it for a fair proportion of that price.

James

[pixueto]

Gina, it might be worth handling the raw file with DCRaw in monochrome without debayering applied. With a bit of luck, those lines may be artifacts created during the demosaicing process?

[Chris]

You should beable to recoup 30 quid from the EFS lens so I think you've done very well effectively getting another 1100D sensor for 50 quid You guys are very pioneering and alot of us will learn alot from your guys mistakes so I think that deserves a bit of kudos I'm looking at 300D bodies on ebay so I can join the fun, they are only 35 quid a pop so I think I can justify a go for that price

Chris

[Rottweiler]

Sorry to see the 350D, Gina. For what it's worth, just like an old banger, you can strip the camera and sell the parts for more than the dead body body. All the main parts are worth a 10er each easily on eBay. Take out the autofocus sensor, shutter, mirrorbox, the power supply, the motherboard, the LCD, even the bayonet and lens cap are worth something. Strip it as much as you can and auction them with a 2.50 starting bid I will take all the bayonets, lens caps, lens lock pins and the tiny spring for sure. I didn't know there were sensitive parts under the blue edge though, live and learn! Never hit them before, what a stroke of luck

[Gina]

If the lens works you can probably re-sell it for a fair proportion of that price.

James

Yes, I thought of that Another idea is to try it for widefield imaging - very wide field

[Gina]

Gina, it might be worth handling the raw file with DCRaw in monochrome without debayering applied. With a bit of luck, those lines may be artifacts created during the demosaicing process?

Good idea - thank you I need DCRaw anyway for converting CR2 files to something sensible

[Gina]

Sorry to see the 350D, Gina. For what it's worth, just like an old banger, you can strip the camera and sell the parts for more than the dead body body. All the main parts are worth a 10er each easily on eBay. Take out the autofocus sensor, shutter, mirrorbox, the power supply, the motherboard, the LCD, even the bayonet and lens cap are worth something. Strip it as much as you can and auction them with a 2.50 starting bid I will take all the bayonets, lens caps, lens lock pins and the tiny spring for sure. I didn't know there were sensitive parts under the blue edge though, live and learn! Never hit them before, what a stroke of luck

Yes, that was lucky Good idea about selling off all the bits I also have a lot of 1100D bits too. I'll be keeping the 1100D bits until I know what I will want.

[flolic]

So far so good

I am now letting this aside until tomorrow, waiting epoxy to finaly set so that I can finish the corners and polish the remaining CFA flecks.

[Gina]

I would like some advice on the best way to use DCRaw, please, as having Googled it I'm a bit confused.

[pixueto]

Gina, you have to use it via MS-DOS console as it works with a command line. Are you comfortable with that? Not that it has any difficulty, really but it doesn't have a GUI.

Edited August 16, 2013 by pixueto

[pixueto]

All you have to do is to download a named dcraw.exe and directly copy it in the C:\WINDOWS\ path to be accessible from any folder when it is called in the command line.

I'm giving you a link with a short tutorial with the commands you will want to use. It will tell you where you can download that file from:

http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/dcraw/index_en.htm

Have a look at it and let me know if you need any help with that.

[Gina]

Gina, you have to use it via MS-DOS console as it works with a command line. Are you comfortable with that? Not that it has any difficulty, really but it doesn't have a GUI.

Ah yes, good old command line - that takes me back Yes, I can handle that Edited August 16, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

All you have to do is to download a named dcraw.exe and directly copy it in the C:\WINDOWS\ path to be accessible from any folder when it is called in the command line.

I'm giving you a link with a short tutorial with the commands you will want to use. It will tell you where you can download that file from:

http://www.guillermo...aw/index_en.htm

Have a look at it and let me know if you need any help with that.

Thank you - that looks very helpful

[Gina]

The epoxy resin is now fully set but has gone a bit further onto the sensor than I intended. Never mind!

[alistairsam]

Looks like I missed a fair bit of action with all the epoxy and debayering going on.

i've done a 350d and 1000d and didn't hit the issue with the blue on the sides going too far. but yeah good to know.

i just got my hot air rework station delivered, waiting for the 600d replacement sensor to arrive.

i will then start with it but not sure if i'll do the epoxy bit.

we'll see.

do you have a pic of the copper tool you're using Gina?

how much more to go before debayering and testing the 1100d sensor?

Cheers

Alistair

[alistairsam]

So far so good

I am now letting this aside until tomorrow, waiting epoxy to finaly set so that I can finish the corners and polish the remaining CFA flecks.

Some nice progress here. was this a flat with the 450d sensor connected back?

Alistair

[Gina]

More CFA removed from the 1100D sensor - a mixture of scraping and abrasive on a piece of plastic. This was taken with a 105mm lens set to f22. (M42 lens plus adapter)