Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Luis Campos]

Gina, you will have to desolder these shields, some of them have screws under them. Luis, black image is a dead sensor, sorry buddy Seen it all too often... Usually from going too deep or a broken wire. You can get some pretty cool modern art if you go too deep but not enough to get a black image. Lots of colours! Also debayering can introduce defects like dead columns or traps.

It's pretty annoying that we have to debayer these cameras, because adding the bayer matrix is an extra step for the manufacturer. Such is the power of mass production I guess.

It's a real pain to spend 6 hours on it and end up with a dead sensor...

I'm puzzled I don't think I scratched the sensor that bad, the wires are all ok, but then again maybe a very fine small scratch is enough to kill it, if that's the case we are in trouble...:/

Cheers,

[Rottweiler]

but then again maybe a very fine small scratch is enough to kill it, if that's the case we are in trouble...:/

I can confirm this, and yes... indeed! :/ I don't know what is worse, that you lost 6 hours or that the new sensors cost 200 euros+ at best.

[alistairsam]

Oh dear Luis And seemingly so near!

I've started stripping down my 350D. Got as far as trying to remove the main board but it's "putting up a fight" It seems to be loose but just won't come out. I've taken some other bits off to see if I could see what's holding it. Removed viewfinder eyepiece adjuster - took some screws out and "boing" a spring, some gears and other bits sprang off Just as well I won't be wanting the viewfinder. Also removed the base plate with the tripod bush. I see lots of soldered on screens any advice most welcome

hi Gina

You might have done this but I followed instructions here http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/canon-rebel-xt-350d and in 12dstrings site.

no popping springs.

luis,

that's unfortunate that you bricked the sensor but how come you didn't do the heat all the way or did you?

did it turn white all around?

replacement sensors are only $65 us on ebay, unlike the 600d and 1100d sensors.

Alistair

[alistairsam]

Luis, could you share what type of wood you used for your successful attempt? I had a play with a broken sensor with wood from a pallet, wood from a pencil and also some dry wood from the car park floor(lol!). No success at all for us, couldn't even get it started. Just seemed like the wood was too soft and wouldn't hold a point or edge.

hi

i used the top end of a paintbrush for my 350d, 600d and 1000d sensors. I did sharpen the end to a flat wedge. 1000d and 600d were harder to remove than the 350d

[Luis Campos]

hi Gina

You might have done this but I followed instructions here http://www.lifepixel...n-rebel-xt-350d and in 12dstrings site.

no popping springs.

luis,

that's unfortunate that you bricked the sensor but how come you didn't do the heat all the way or did you?

did it turn white all around?

replacement sensors are only $65 us on ebay, unlike the 600d and 1100d sensors.

Alistair

Hi Alistair,

Thanks Yes, I have one sensor from Ebay on it's way

The glue turned wite allmost instatnly, really crazy to see and the sensor glass just popped out by itself, but there was a corner and a bit more there it didn't so this was enough for me to brake it...man it's so darn thin that glass

Cheers,

[Luis Campos]

I can confirm this, and yes... indeed! :/ I don't know what is worse, that you lost 6 hours or that the new sensors cost 200 euros+ at best.

Yep, it was a looooooong time, I ended up with a massive headache for nothing...

All cured afther a good night's sleep

Cheers,

[Gina]

Gina, you will have to desolder these shields, some of them have screws under them.

Thanks I thought that may be the case. I'll get my desoldering iron out

[Gina]

Gina, you mean the main board were all the connector attach? On a 350D there is a very small screw on the "left side" of the chasis near the USB port, have you removed this? You need to remove also the metal plate where the CF card sits, there 3 small screws in total, one at each corner of the main board and one at the base of this plate (Cf card).

Hope it helps,

See more info here:

http://www.lifepixel...n-rebel-xt-350d

Yes, I saw the screw on the left side - figured that out Thank you for the link - very useful I should have asked before ploughing ahead really No harm done

[russellhq]

The glue turned wite allmost instatnly, really crazy to see and the sensor glass just popped out by itself, but there was a corner and a bit more there it didn't so this was enough for me to brake it...man it's so darn thin that glass

Cheers,

Have you got a hair dryer you could try? It won't be as intense as your hot air gun but hopefully will be hot enough.

Also, have you considered making a scraper out of lead? It's nice and soft compared to silicon.

[Luis Campos]

Have you got a hair dryer you could try? It won't be as intense as your hot air gun but hopefully will be hot enough.

Also, have you considered making a scraper out of lead? It's nice and soft compared to silicon.

Hi,

I use the hair dryer on my sensor (the workig one) did nothing even at full throtle, you need a lot more heat to brake the glue bond, I'll try a more localised method next time

Or maybe no heat at all and just brake the darn glass!!! LOL

Thing is, it would be great to be abble to seal the sensor again afther the mod with the original cover glass, you can also use the Baader filter or similar on the filter frame but the original cover glass will make a much better sealing (this will be for cooled cameras).

Cheers,

[Gina]

I have the sensor out of my 350D and have removed the filter box leaving the sensor glass exposed ready for heating.

I'm planning on a sealed and cooled system and I will be either removing all moisture from the air or replacing it with dry gas of some other sort. There will be an optical window to seal the camera enclosure. The idea is to remove all damp and dust from the environs of the sensor and I see no need to replace the sensor cover glass in this situation The whole casing will be airtight and dust tight - unlike a normal camera where only the sensor is sealed. IMO the fewer glass surfaces in the optical path the better. AR glass has only 50% the reflectivity of the present cover glass but no glass has NO = 0% reflectivity. An optical window of some sort is needed to seal the system and prevent condensation - I see no benefit in any internal glass. The easiest optical window would be either a luminance or LPS/IDAS filter which would act as both a seal and IR/UV filter. Also, good quality filters have a low reflectivity coating. Seems a good all-round option to me

Edited August 12, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

Maybe I ought to put it all back together and test it What a palaver!! Wonder if I need to put that screen back

[Gina]

Well I did it and it works - voila! one full spectrum 350D

Edited August 12, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

I'm not attempting to remove the cover glass tonight - I'll leave that until I'm fresher tomorrow. I have stripped the camera back down again though and taken the sensor back out.

[billhinge]

I have the sensor out of my 350D and have removed the filter box leaving the sensor glass exposed ready for heating.

I'm planning on a sealed and cooled system and I will be either removing all moisture from the air or replacing it with dry gas of some other sort. There will be an optical window to seal the camera enclosure. The idea is to remove all damp and dust from the environs of the sensor and I see no need to replace the sensor cover glass in this situation The whole casing will be airtight and dust tight - unlike a normal camera where only the sensor is sealed. IMO the fewer glass surfaces in the optical path the better. AR glass has only 50% the reflectivity of the present cover glass but no glass has NO = 0% reflectivity. An optical window of some sort is needed to seal the system and prevent condensation - I see no benefit in any internal glass. The easiest optical window would be either a luminance or LPS/IDAS filter which would act as both a seal and IR/UV filter. Also, good quality filters have a low reflectivity coating. Seems a good all-round option to me

If you want to get a custom made optical window you try contacting these folk http://www.uqgoptics.com/catalogue/Windows/Windows.aspx , good selection of fancy glass

I bought a couple of spectrosil 2000 windows cut to exact size to do my DIY full spectrum conversions, worked out at about £15 to cut within a fraction of a mm as a custom job, in total £40 each + vat

http://www.uqgoptics.com/pdf/Fused%20Silica%20-%20Spectrosil.pdf

[Gina]

Araldite has arrived so I'm all set to go with debayering

Edited August 13, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

If you want to get a custom made optical window you try contacting these folk http://www.uqgoptics...ws/Windows.aspx , good selection of fancy glass

I bought a couple of spectrosil 2000 windows cut to exact size to do my DIY full spectrum conversions, worked out at about £15 to cut within a fraction of a mm as a custom job, in total £40 each + vat

http://www.uqgoptics... Spectrosil.pdf

That's interesting - thank you

[flolic]

Araldite has arrived so I'm all set to go with debayering

I hope you got the blue one (90 minutes)

Yesterday I tried "Bison" universal epoxy (90 minutes) on my dead 10D sensor, it's very easy to apply it around bonding wires with the toothpick.

Just be extra careful and never ever touch the wires.

This epoxy is quite thick, but will easily flow between the wires and sensor housing.

[Gina]

Yes, it's the blue one I shall be very very careful - probably drop it from a great height - like a centimetre

[Gina]

Very careful heating - taking ages - is beginning to produce results

[Luis Campos]

Very careful heating - taking ages - is beginning to produce results

You're getting there Gina, keep it up...nice and easy, don't force it

[Gina]

Thanks Luis

[Gina]

One side is being very stubborn! An hour or so after heating and whitening three quarters of the joint a little crack started from the edge and curved inwards but not right across - at least not yet. Just in case I applied some sticky pad.

Edited August 13, 2013 by Gina

[Gina]

I now have white all round the glass but I can't prise it off using reasonable force - just tiny semi-circular slivers of glass cracked off the surface at the edge. I dare not use any more force or I'll crack the glass. Would it help to use any more heat? Anyone?

Edited August 13, 2013 by Gina

[russellhq]

Could you use something like a feeler gauge to slip between the glass and sensor housing to try and initiate disbondment?