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Rottweiler last won the day on August 5 2013

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  1. Apologies, there seems to be no edit button That first photo is HDR. The edges are cropped by about 10 pixels, going for a 100% debayering seems to be no worth the risk for such a small sacrifice. No flat calibration, just normal processing as a regular photographer would do it. Now some more normal images -
  2. Hi Everyone! I would like to post our latest attempt using glass polish rather than mechanical scraping (although the pencil tip attempt I read about looks also interesting). Also, if you have any parts left over from debayering attempts please send me a PM, spare parts are nice to have around!
  3. The reason the error appears at the end of the exposure is because it is detected on readout. I saw the image you posted with the horizontal and verticle traps. This is from going a little too deep with the scraper, maybe try a wider tip. It does seem the wooden scraper is safer than the metal one as luis said, I think using a metal scraper is something that comes with practice. Although I have to say we will be sticking with our polish only method, since we also have occasional troubles from scraping methods.. The polish choices, I would stick to anything used normally for optical purposes. I
  4. Sorry to see the 350D, Gina. For what it's worth, just like an old banger, you can strip the camera and sell the parts for more than the dead body body. All the main parts are worth a 10er each easily on eBay. Take out the autofocus sensor, shutter, mirrorbox, the power supply, the motherboard, the LCD, even the bayonet and lens cap are worth something. Strip it as much as you can and auction them with a 2.50 starting bid I will take all the bayonets, lens caps, lens lock pins and the tiny spring for sure. I didn't know there were sensitive parts under the blue edge though, live and learn!
  5. You should see the results when you put the sensor back in once the microlenses are gone but the bayer remains, the drop in sensitivity is quite surprising. Microlenses are great! The increase in sensitivity from removing the bayer shows just how much light is being sapped away by the mask. Looking good, Gina
  6. Yay! I think we just found a positive point to spending so much time waiting for clouds to clear. Amateur astronomy has done wonders for my patience
  7. Yup! :/ Lead won't work, we tried it. Besides it not holding an edge for long and being toxic, it also galls onto the surface and is very hard to remove. The huge lead atoms also make a pretty sturdy light shield. Once the bond is broken you can remove it as you would a sensor out of a 450D, by running a scalpel or stanley blade around it until it pops off. I also agree with Luis about the frame, it will make getting under the glass easier. Does anyone plan to try out our abrasion method? Glad to see the epoxy and heating working already
  8. I can confirm this, and yes... indeed! :/ I don't know what is worse, that you lost 6 hours or that the new sensors cost 200 euros+ at best.
  9. Gina, you will have to desolder these shields, some of them have screws under them. Luis, black image is a dead sensor, sorry buddy Seen it all too often... Usually from going too deep or a broken wire. You can get some pretty cool modern art if you go too deep but not enough to get a black image. Lots of colours! Also debayering can introduce defects like dead columns or traps. It's pretty annoying that we have to debayer these cameras, because adding the bayer matrix is an extra step for the manufacturer. Such is the power of mass production I guess.
  10. Any error code generated from the debayering is pretty much terminal, you can't undo going too deep or breaking a wire. Err 70 is "Malfunctions related to images have been detected.", if something breaks, it is usually the last thing you did to it... RAC, great to read As for realigning the sensor, it is pretty critical but you can realign it yourself with a bit of patience. Luis, could you share what type of wood you used for your successful attempt? I had a play with a broken sensor with wood from a pallet, wood from a pencil and also some dry wood from the car park floor(lol!). No success
  11. Very strange that the sensors in both our pictures appear green... Have you annealed the copper? It will make it softer. If you can't find your oilstone, get a diamond lapping tool. They are on ebay for under a tenner. I also would like to apologise about the comment I made about avoiding the dremel to the OP, I didn't mean to offend. The dremel will work and is much faster than the hand methods, it's just very difficult to get a flat surface using a cylindrical tool. Especially as it is so quick to remove the bayer. Although doing the first 90% with the dremel and finishing by hand could off
  12. Looks promising, I think you might be there if you can avoid the scratches . Can't really tell with the lighting, the photos I took also have a green hue and there is definitely no bayer left. The easiest way to see if the bayer still is there is to put it back to the camera and take a test shot. If there is any bayer left you will get a dim colour image. Or you can make a test swipe with a cotton bud and polish, you will get a green spot on the cotton bud. The colour in the matrix seems to be very powerful, even a trace of it will cause a visible stain.
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