Flocking - is it worth the effort?

[ChrisThePuma]

Hi

I have been reading about people taking their scopes apart to add flocking - it seems quite a big job just to stick the stuff inside - is the effort worth the results?

Thanks

chris

[brantuk]

What it does is reduce the amount of stray light that bounces around inside the tube. The difference is quite astounding. You'll find you get much greater contrast and clarity at the eyepeice which is very useful particularly if you regularly view from a light poluted site.

[steppenwolf]

Absolutely worth doing - it is one on my Christmas projects this year, in fact the 'scope is stripped down in readiness already!

The only thing I would add to Kim's post is that it is not necessary to flock the whole of the inside of the tube on a reflector - the key is to concentrate on the region opposite the focuser and around the primary mirror. In fact, remove you eyepiece and look into the empty focuser - every surface (except the mirrors!!!) that you can see indicates an area that needs flocking.

No harm will be done by flocking the whole tube but it will be a case of diminishing returns for a lot of additional work.

[ChrisThePuma]

Cool - thanks for the advice.

Still need a scope - but worth planning what to do when i get it :-)

I think aesthetically i will flock the whole scope (inside only obviously) despite the extra work.

thanks

Chris

[austen4]

Sounds like a good idea and that it works aswell. Does this help with imaging aswell?

Thanks

[x6gas]

What it does is reduce the amount of stray light that bounces around inside the tube. The difference is quite astounding. You'll find you get much greater contrast and clarity at the eyepeice which is very useful particularly if you regularly view from a light poluted site.

What I don't understand is why the scope manufacturers don't flock the scope as standard. It would surely cost pennies..

[johninderby]

Flocking definitely does work. As mentioned the most important bits with a newt/dob are near the focuser and the primary mirror.

I no longer use the self adhesive flocking though. The flockboard material that's on a plastic backing is a lot easier to fit and makes for a neater job as you simply cut it to size and slide it down the tube where it holds itself in place. The genuine Protostar Flockboard is admittedly expensive, but you could make your own version by using a cheaper self adhesive flocking and sticking it onto some black 0.75mm thick plasticard which is fairly cheap on eBay in A3 or larger sheets. Just tape a few plasticard sheets together to make a large enough backing sheet to fit around the inside of the tube.

John

[Earl]

What I don't understand is why the scope manufacturers don't flock the scope as standard. It would surely cost pennies..

I agree but where do you draw the line within the price range, Flocking is not a quick job, the material cost will be cheap but the labour cost and slow down in production has to be considered.

[x6gas]

I agree but where do you draw the line within the price range, Flocking is not a quick job, the material cost will be cheap but the labour cost and slow down in production has to be considered.

Really? Would it really be such a job to flock opposite the focuser before the OTA was assembled? I do know what you mean about drawing the line though... and the collimation screws on my Edge HD show just how far manufacturers will go to save a fraction of a penny (they were made of cream cheese, I think!)

[Earl]

Really? Would it really be such a job to flock opposite the focuser before the OTA was assembled? I do know what you mean about drawing the line though... and the collimation screws on my Edge HD show just how far manufacturers will go to save a fraction of a penny (they were made of cream cheese, I think!)

I was considering the whole tube not just a part to be honest, if your going to do it you might aswell do it all.

Cheap screws are to help out Bob LOL

[malc-c]

My guess is that the tube is cold rolled, so I'm sure it could be applied to the inside of the tube and then the tube rolled. OK you may have a slight gap where the seam is welded / crimped, but it wouldn't slow production down and shouldn't add much to the overall cost

[Tinker1947]

Is there a preferred type of flock, or only 1 type..???

[Earl]

Is there a preferred type of flock, or only 1 type..???

Yes, one that does not shed, FLO now sell one which has been reported to be very good.

First Light Optics - Black Velour Flocking Material (45cm x 1m)

[steppenwolf]

FLO have done some research on this and with a little help from an SGL member, they have a solution.

[steppenwolf]

Sorry, Earl, we doubled!

[Earl]

Flocking is something im going to do to my Newt, I did by some, but its not up to par so ill be replacing it.

Im really not looking forward to doing it though.

[magic612]

This is an extreme example as it is white PVC pipe, but when I built my first reflector, I took pictures of the "before" and "after" - pretty clear how much the flocking helps. Certainly most telescope tubes are painted flat black, not gloss white, but they still reflect a fair amount of incidental light.

Note how much brighter the floor is outside the tube on the "flocked" picture, since the camera had to take a longer exposure due to the darkness created by the flocking inside the tube:

[Donkeiller]

Silly question- is flocking only really worth it on Newtonians, or is it worthwhile on Fracs and SCTs as well?

[magic612]

Don, my understanding for refractors is: It depends. Good refractors with a lot of internal light baffles (increasingly smaller concentric circles inside the tube) will not really require much in the way of flocking - perhaps the focuser and the dew shield, but not much more than that. Poorly baffled refractors could perhaps benefit from flocking behind the lens.

For SCT's, the answer is yes - BUT - do learn how to mark the corrector lens on the tube before removing. It does need to be put back on in exactly the same location. But I have read numerous reports of flocking substantially improving the view in SCT's.

Of course, this all depends on the ambient lighting around your observing location; more ambient light means flocking will help more.

[sunshine185]

How do you get the flocking material down the bottom of an eight inch solid tube dob? Do you have to remove the primary? If so, is this easy to do?

[Parky1972]

Is this similar to the stuff that's used on rally car dashboards to prevent glare?

If so....

How about the 'professional' flock services?

Obviously it means you'd have to post or take the tube to a place that does it.

But considering it's spray glue, then static charge gun applied, I'd assume a better coverage and final effect would be the end result.

So the cost might be worth the hastle.

Jason.

[Damo636]

I originally flocked opposite the focuser and above the primary but wasn't satisfied with the results so ended up flocking the entire ota with Protostar Flockboard. Its a great easy to use product and the difference in contrast is noticeable. It works out a bit more expensive but for the ease of use imo its well worth it.

Flocking opposite focuser & above primary & finally entire ota with Protostar Flockboard.

[Tim]

100% worth the effort! Another vote for flocking from me.

[Beulah]

How do you get the flocking material down the bottom of an eight inch solid tube dob? Do you have to remove the primary? If so, is this easy to do?

You have to remove everything from the telescope tube:

Primary mirror

Secondary mirror and spider vane

The two black units on the tube that act as alt bearings

(movement up and down)

The finderscope

The focuser

Store the primary mirror in a towel lined box and put it somewhere safe.

Placing the tube on a table covered with a towel, wipe the inside of the tube with a damp cloth, to remove any dust. Wait for it to dry (shouldn't take long as the cloth should be damp)

Cut a piece of flocking paper to the length of about the tube length, but about 2 inches shy of where the primary mirror should go.

With an 8 inch tube, cut the paper in half, so you have two pieces as long as the tube. It is easier to adhere the paper when it is in thinner strips of about half the width of the paper.

Expose a little of the adhesive side, abut three inches and stick to the top end of the tube. Rub down, then keep exposing the adhesive little by little until you have adhered the strip to the inside of the tube. Make sure air bubbles are removed as you go, it needs to be applied as smoothly as possible.

Repeat with other pieces until the entire inside of the tube is covered (with exception to the 2 inch unflocked bit where the primary mirror should go).

Check the edges of the flocking paper again, as you do not want the paper to come loose after you have reassembled the scope.

Any remaining bubbles can be popped with a sharp blade and rubbed flat, although it is ideal not to have any bubbles!

Run a sharp knife through the screw holes on the tube, to pierce the flocking paper.

You may want to apply a few coats of this stuff around the edges of your secondary mirror. Let it dry completely before reattaching (this should be the penultimate job to the final task of reattaching the primary mirror).

Reattach some of the the gubbins, EXCEPT THE PRIMARY & SECONDARY MIRROR & SPIDER VANE.

You may wish to paint all the ends of the screws and nuts black.

When dry, reattach the spider vanes, secondary & primary mirror. It's a good idea to ensure the tube is laying horizontally, as you do not want anything crashing down on the primary mirror!

Check your spider vanes to make sure the secondary mirror sits in the centre of the tube.

Collimate

Bob's your mother's brother.

[Space Beagle]

Yep, this is one project I must do to my 200P!!

Thanks Beulah, that's a cracking summary of how to complete the whole job!!

I'll print that off and use it if you don't mind!

Doc