Stuart1971

Well made some good progress today, shed up and my outside sockets re positioned on the side as they would have been stuck behind...went up really well...👍🏼 The roof has to be made now, in two halves, and then two full length 4” x 2” batons down each side to support the fire door hinges which run on bearings, have to be fitted, then the EDPM roof fitted to each half...so some work to do yet....

Well it’s finally arrived, so I will be unpacking it all and the build will start pretty soon....

Well you would be surprised, and the fact you mentioned all your kit and a Baader filter, but failed to mention the white light filter....made me wonder....👍🏼

And why was it so funny, you mentioned just the one filter, which is extremely dangerous...?

Just that one filter.....or a white light filter too, I do hope you are not just using the Baader filter....😮😮😮😮

Why would using Sudo potentially mess anything up, I use it all the time with all my commands, as if I don’t, somethings things won’t work.. am I missing something...?

Would “sudo oacapture” show more..?.

I thought that was sorted a long time ago on Astroberry....?

Can I ask, why do you need to change it....sometimes this can issues, so don’t do it unless you really need to....I changed mine once and had a nightmare afterwards....but then again that was me, and Linux and me don’t seem to mix....👍🏼

What info from this date...?? There is nothing asked for...!! 🤔

I started this thread on December 29th last year, and I still can’t use my QHY5 or an Altair Astro camera with OAcapture on my raspberry PI...so I assume this is not going to happen anytime soon... ☹️

Cant you connect both your mount and your Raspberry PI to your home network...?

This is great to know as I have just bought the Geoptik 164mm version, so can I ask where do you have the dimmer set...as I found it seems to go from very dim, and then slowly gets brighter, then suddenly jumps to the brightest, it’s not the smoothest of dimmers, seems not to have much adjustment at the bright end, or is it just mine...?.

I bought a round one from Aliexpress with the 12v inverter for £22 posted...worth a look...👍🏼

AFAIK, it works fine with either...👍🏼

The RA sounds exactly like it should now....but DEC is still not right......

You can’t tighten the gears so there is no backlash, all bears need some backlash to work, you have to find the balance, also you have to,take into account the colder temps at night this will cause binding if the gears are too tight, and yours obviously are...maybe you should have posted this on the thread you already started about the noises your mount makes...as we are providing info on there for you.....🤔🤔

So, if you are using a scope and imaging already, what’s with your other thread on using the LX90 vis a computer...?? I am confused...

This is not right at all, I had this mount a few years back, and it was nothing like this one, it was smooth with just the hum of the steeper motors when slewing, and no noise when it stopped, I can assure you those “coffee grinder” noises are NOT normal....

Yes, as far as I know you need a working handset for this to work, as that’s where all the brains and electronics are for these scopes, all that’s in the scope base itself, is the motors and motor controllers....sorry....☹️ Looking at what other have written, I obviously know nothing about the LX200 so ignore me, I only have the LX90....👍🏼

I use a lot of Velcro on my Astro set up, but I will only use the actual “Velcro” brand, any other are rubbish IMO... This is what I use and it’s super strong, never had an issue... https://www.amazon.co.uk/VELCRO-Brand-Superior-Holding-Indoors/dp/B00186Q9AK/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-rsf1_0?adgrpid=103926605197&cv_ct_cx=velcro+tape&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwutaCBhDfARIsAJHWnHv0Rm5ErY0P_Rb2bttY8UwzUUARAK4pqt6HSgZJEhRoj5kCTdRjyqYaAov4EALw_wcB&hvadid=447261640309&hvdev=c&hvlocint=9046174&hvlocphy=1006643&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7456102009595300325&hvtargid=kwd-377732351233&hydadcr=28147_1843116&keywords=velcroe+tape&pd_rd_i=B00186Q9AK&pd_rd_r=3dee0562-03c7-40c6-a3ff-11c43a0c9d4b&pd_rd_w=uoarT&pd_rd_wg=WAWqQ&pf_rd_p=0907528d-e69c-42de-9df8-628d56a339fb&pf_rd_r=MA0348PK9JSGJ5218YGF&psc=1&qid=1616234984&sr=1-1-f188f9fa-0157-48f5-a7ad-8e0892dbeeeb

No, that does not sound correct at all...something is wrong with the worm gears, without opening up hard to know exactly what....🤔🤔

Sharpcap... https://www.sharpcap.co.uk

So if it clears backlash as part of the sequence, why does it have a separate backlash setting...I don’t get that....??

So your backlash is set to 1, this seems very low, mine is on 70 ...i found after a move outward, it needs to move in by 70 to clear all backlash....or does Ekos automatically use its own backlash setting...?