Stuart1971

Ok, I see it is sold as both…..flattener / coma corrector…..Hmmmm, well this is a strange one then….🤔🤔

Thought it was a coma corrector, not a dedicated SCT filed flattener….?

I did say right at the start, it’s not a coma issue, it’s a flat field issue, a coma corrector was not what you needed IMHO, is was just an SCT field flattener….☹️

Hmmm 🤔 not sure now, you got me thinking…..😂😂😂

My home built AstroShed set up, dual Taks on an EQ8 mount, and steel pier

In a word…NO….unfortunately ☹️

That was my issue for the last few years, just not wanting to set it all up, but after building my Astro shed, it takes 40 seconds to be up and running, I know everyone says it, but it was the best thing I ever did…and now I get the most out of this hobby…👍🏼

My vote goes to Skysafari, don’t get me wrong I have Stellarium on my PC, but the GUI and menus are very clunky and not user friendly, I never remember where anything is, that’s if I can even find the menus…..😂 IMHO anyway… SS is just better and the items are easy to find, and where I would want them to be, and suits my way of thinking….👍🏼

That’s a shame, I feel like I have had the best couple of months for a few years….which is good for us here in the midlands….👍🏼

Well done Steve, super catch and nice colours…..👍🏼

Yes, my mistake I totally got it all the wrong way around….👍🏼

Lovely graph, you seem to have it dialled in there…. I have come to the conclusion that, guiding is never going to be the same all night, mine seems to go from anywhere between 0.4 to 0.8 rms depending on where the scope is pointing, and on which side of the pier it is, so I am guessing this all must make a bigger difference than I thought it would, not sure if it’s balance, or just down to where it’s pointing. But at the end of the day I image at 1.74”/pixel, so as long as my guiding rms, is al least half of that (0.8 ish) then the stars will be good…otherwise I am worrying too much about the guiding and not enjoying the imaging…

I thought it would just drop inside the focus tube on the back of the scope, and then the lip on the corrector would stop it going in too far…and then any attatchment would hold it in place….but again, I maybe completely wrong…

I don’t think those coma correctors were designed to be used with crayfords on the back of SCT’s, I think the idea was they were to be put straight in the back of the SCT and then an extension and then the camera, this would make it rock solid, and you would just use the SCT native focuser…. Now you could do this but you would need to work out the focus point with the crayfors first, and see whether the length of the focuser would be too much, with the drawtube in the focussed position, ideally you want it to be less that 90mm so you can add an extension if needed….👍🏼

Ah, ok…but looking at those stars, they look like mine when I don’t use the flattener…👍🏼

It’s not a coma corrector you need, it’s a field flattener…coma you get in Newtonians, SCT suffer from a very small flat filed, so a flattener is needed. I have an 8” SCT and use a really good flattener and it’s pretty darn good, never heard of anyone using a coma corrector on an SCT….but maybe I am totally wrong….

😂😂 sorry….

Yes I have these on both my Taks, £29 for the pair delivered from Aliexpress about 12 months ago

That depends on the software used, with NINA there is an inbuilt guider which allows you to dither, you are not guiding but the software thinks you are and sends the dither commands, so that would work perfectly for your situation….

Yes deffo walking noise, Darks would also help a lot, you really need them with a DSLR as it’s uncooled, especially if you don’t or can’t dither…👍🏼

I can give a little info, I contacted these about 15 months ago, and asked for a price, of a small design I had come up with, with a lift up roof on gas struts, just 5 feet by 6 feet, we spent a few weeks emailing back and fourth and came up with a mutual agreeable design and the agreement was delivery only as I was happy to build myself, the price was discussed at the start and agreed. ‘So after a week or so I mailed and said yes I wanted to go ahead, and asked for a timescale, he said he would get back to me…in a day or so, which he did, and told me 6-8 weeks, and then he said but the price was a bit more than he had already quoted, which was 4k, so I said how much more, he said 6.5k….😮😮😮 So after a few choice words, I asked how come, and he said he had checked and because of lockdown, the prices of timber had shot up, well this was unacceptable and I told them to forget the whole thing, I was disgusted that he had not checked the prices when he first quoted me…so I wasted 6 weeks sorting out the design… I ended up buying a shed from B&Q and converting myself and the total build was £450, and am really happy with it… https://youtu.be/6wH2FlGyobk

VAT and import duty….what are those, never had them and have bought lots of Astro stuff from china recently….😉

Does this look a bit better….?

Dynamic exposure will alter the exposure length to suit the light panel, and ADU you choose Dynamic brightness will alter the panel brightness to suit the exposure and ADU you choose, so this will not work unless it’s a panel that can be controlled via the software..👍🏼

You use dark flats to calibrate the light flats, Dark flats on there own, are just darks, or bias….you need light flats with every camera AFAIK