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Stuart1971

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Everything posted by Stuart1971

  1. I had a flexible on my Tak FSQ85 and moved to a solid coupling, as long as it is fitted correctly, no issues at all. 👍🏼 fit the coupler to the focuser shaft, and tighten down, then fit motor bracket loosely, fit motor to bracket loosely, then slide the motor shaft into the coupler and tighten bracket down, then the important bit, with motor loose on bracket, run the motor slowly to centre the shaft in the coupler, this will move the motor on the bracket as needed, then tighten motor on bracket, run it again and make sure motor shaft turns in coupler with no radial movement, then tighten grub screw on motor shaft…then finally run it 360 degrees in both directions to check for and forced movement in the motor and bracket assembly, which would indicate radial movement……..simples…😀 PLEASE NOTE, the above instruction were for fitting the motor to the coarse focus shaft and I don’t recommend fitting a solid coupler to the fine focus shaft…just thought I would mention that…as some focusers use this side of the focuser….my Pegasus does not..👍🏼
  2. Hi, Nice image, regards the flattener, have you got the distance between flattener and sensor exactly as it should be, as this is pretty critical for most flatteners, also you have to allow for any filters in the imaging train also, rule of thumb is to add 1/3rd of the thickness of the filter to the backfocus distance… Looking at your stars I would say you need to move the flattener away from the sensor a tiny bit… This is not for your flattener, specifically, but may help in reading the star shapes as it applies to most
  3. Questions 1, 2 and 3 are all as you assume…and yes the “Normal Astro mod” is as you say in question 2, I have had the mod done over the years by both Cheapastrophotography and Astronomiser, no difference in how they worked, but at the time CA were much cheaper….👍🏼
  4. At that shutter speed, they are not flats but pretty much bias frames … try to get around 2-4 second flats..👍🏼
  5. So are you using a telescope, if so the panel should be on the end of that with it focused for nightime use…?
  6. Hmm, it really does look like it’s focused on the panel, you need the focus at the same setting as you use for your Astro shots….also how long is the exposure…you should be aiming for around 25,000 to 30,000 ADU…
  7. As @scotty38 says, the flats need to show the same abnormalities that are present in your lights, so no, these will not work at all….☹️ You can’t beat an EL panel for flats, I have never had much luck with LED type ones….
  8. Well, not in my experience and I use it a lot, it’s for gradients and not noise reduction at all, but with gradient removal to the eye the noise will look reduced….but it’s not at all the same as a proper noise reduction tool…. Topaz is very good, but easy to overdo with it, you can’t beat more data at the end of the day…..👍🏼
  9. Hmmm, astroflat pro is nothing to do with noise reduction, it’s for removing gradients and light pollution…I think you are mixed up with Gradient Xterminator….👍🏼
  10. Ah, now that’s interesting, as I use APP for stacking and calibration, so I assume the stretch in that is all linked, with no option to unlink….🤔
  11. Yes, that looks like light leak to me….👍🏼
  12. Very nice, but with blue fringing on the stars and some bloat, but I’m sure there is a way to control that in processing, but don’t ask me how….👍🏼
  13. Well, no as mine shows the natural colour, yours was processed with some Hubble like palette settings, but looks nice, the exposure length will not change this….I just wondered what settings you used to get those colours, as it’s not a standard RGB image as mine is…🤔
  14. This is what confuses me, if I put my L-extreme data in APP it stacks and comes out just red, as below, yet others can stack in PI and they come out as your colours are, why so different…..🤔🤔
  15. Lovely image, can I ask for your processing techniques to get the colour, as I use an L-eXtreme, and only get all red images….👍🏼
  16. I did not say it fixed it, I said it was not evident in those images, and they were perfect from edge to edge….do you have one of these scopes…?? so tak have produced this flattener to supposedly fix the issue, that we have with smaller pixel cameras, so I am happy, and am not arguing the point with you…👍🏼
  17. it is not a CC/FR it’s a field flattener…. Well that’s up to you to believe or not, but it’s true, do some research and you will see, also before I bought the 268 I had an older SX M25c with 8.5 micron pixels, and every image were perfect from edge to edge…so that proved it to me…look on CN there is loads of threads about it…and a few on here too…👍🏼
  18. the centre of the field is perfect…. Yes got it sorted, it is because of my small pixel camera, the tak optices were designed for larger pixel cameras, and so when the new CMOS cameras came forward, there were issues with astigmatisms with these optics, with small pixels and larger sensors APS-C and above, so tak brought out an extra corrector / flattener to correct this, it is now supplied with any new FSQ85 but not with mine, so I have purchased this now…it’s a common issue I found out after some investigation…👍🏼
  19. Because I took my dark library in the middle of the winter when it was 0 degrees, outside, also the cover is large and covers the whole mount and scopes, so plenty of air and room under….
  20. Well, I find that these cameras are so sensitive that I have to do mine with the camera on the scope in my obsy which is pretty dark even in the day, with scope cap on and with a cover over the whole lot too, or I get light leak….and it does spoil the darks….
  21. So,you would send with only £299 insurance cover against loss, or even stolen….?? 🤔🤔 If something goes wrong, like it’s lost, he is not back to square one at all, as he gets £299 back if lucky and no camera….how is that back to square one….
  22. I have that filter and this was 1 hour, so can you let me know how you processed to get those colours…👍🏼
  23. That’s a cracking image for just 1 hour 20mins…👍🏼 What filters did you use…?
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