Stuart1971

Hmmmm, not so sure on that, I have to use an external USB 3.0 1200mbps adapter, as the internal one was rubbish, did think about fitting an external aerial for the internal card, but went for USB in the end, and has been flawless…

The celeron J4125 is on par with an older i5 series 5 or similar…it’s very good and highly praised on the NINA discord group…I would get one, but my old i3 version 4, which is pretty old by todays standards, does a good enough job, and the J4125 walks all over my i3….

You alter the guide rate in the mount driver, so either EQMOD or GSS whichever you use, for EQMOD it’s here…circled in red, BUT you also have to change in PHD2 under advanced option to match whatever to set it to in EQMOD

Is it just purely a field flattener spacing issue, or possibly and optical error in the flattener itself…🤔🤔

These settings don’t mean elongated stars at all, I have settings similar and get perfect round stars, I often get R.A. twice the error of DEC and an RMS of 0.9, and with my imaging scale being 1.72”/pixel, it’s absolutely fine….the seeing will probably limit it to 2”/pixel anyway My last guided session two days ago, I had 0.18” in DEC and 0.45” in RA, so 0.47 RMS overall, and stars were perfectly round…👍🏼 but the guide speed should be increased as 0.1 is too low, try at least 0.4 or 0.5, 0.5 is the standard and what most would use.

Yes the Beelink one at FLO has the J4125 celeron processor which is excellent,

I don’t image out in the field, I have a permanent set up at home, in an observatory, the PC sits on the mount, and I use Remote Desktop from my PC indoors to connect to NINA and control everything…👍🏼

You can’t increase it, it’s fixed at 3 Amps Max, so if it shows 0.8, then that is what the device is drawing and needing, so all is good… It only shows what the devices are using and not what the USB can supply max, but it is 3 amps, so as long as you don’t use anything that try’s to draw more than that, then USB is fine for power supply…..

Thanks for that… Don’t seem to have for my ageing older i3….

Superb, nice contrast….👍🏼 I tried this the other night and got 8 subs, and then clouds stopped play, I was using my L-Extreme filter as with the waxing moon fairly close I thought it would stop the shine from that, but it still seemed to penetrate and stop some detail, which I was surprised at….🤔 will give a try next time I’m out…assuming it’s still visible…👍🏼

I looked, and can’t find those USB lids anywhere in the U.K….do you have a link…??

You can ignore that message and carry on, if you load Darks, Flats and dark flats it won’t come up….anything less and it will, but ignore it, no need for bias..👍🏼

Use the RGB combine tool, in the tools list…👍🏼

The mele quieter 2 are very popular ATM, lots of good reviews on them, and very compact…. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MeLE-Quieter2-Computer-Supports-Dual-Screen/dp/B08ZXXJL6N

+1 for the intel NUC, i use an older i3 model. £95 from eBay, but I put an extra 8gb RAM in to make 16 and a bigger 240gb SSD it came with 8gb and 120gb SSD, works flawlessly with NINA, GSS and any other software I need….and runs from 12v, and start on power on….👍🏼

Spot on, about the same as with EQMOD, but the settings are just easier to use in GSS, the GUI is better, PEC in EQMOD was a nightmare to use, but in GSS it’s a doddle, although I would have thought it would use more than 1 turn of the worm to get the PEC, as 3 or 4 would give a much better average…but it worked well, I was very happy with it..👍🏼

Hello, I use this filter but with a 2600 sensor, and find that you need dark flats to calibrate your flats with, and darks of course, but no bias, as the bias signal is in the darks and the flat darks. I only use 120 second subs, and they calibrate perfectly, but the flats have to be at least a few seconds long, if they are too short they can cause issues, so I go for 25000 ADU at 4 seconds, my light panel adjusts brightness automatically to achieve this. And as you say light leak can also cause problems, so worth checking that out too…👍🏼

Great image, a very star rich area, and they can take over the image a bit, I have the QHY version of this camera, and I only use 2 min subs with the narrowband L-Extreme filter, so with no filter you could try reducing the sub time down to maybe under 1 min, it will stop the stars taking over so much and so drowning the nebula… what Gain setting are you using..? I hope you don’t mind the advice…👍🏼

Well I have to say GSS seemed to work well tonight after first light with it…guiding was better but only after using PPEC, but much easier to do with GSS I have to say… Still getting some oscillation in R.A., so not sure if my AG setting is too high…

Correct, one grub screw in hole on each knob, and to remove the full dual focus section it’s the outermost screw in the hole on the black body…👍🏼

If you remove the fine focus knob, and then the focus knob on the other side the whole thing will slide out, or you can leave it in place as when you remove the fine focus you can then get to the workings of that without removing the whole thing….it should be quite easy, the fine focus runs on bearings by friction, you should see this and be able to see what the issue is….👍🏼

Yes that is a 10:1 focus knob, and the black one should turn 10 times while the larger one just once…so looks like you have an issue, maybe it’s seized somehow…🤔

Hmmmmm, long exposures I don’t think so, this is L-extreme, 2 min subs x 30, so 1 hour, from bortle 6, don’t think the UHC would give this detail in 1 hour….sorry to disagree….🤔🤔

I use NINA with default autofocus settings and with a QHY268c camera and recently bought the L-Extreme filter, it focuses perfectly well, and just as quick and easy as with my LP filter, and this was just under 2 hours of 2 min subs of the heart through bortle 5-6 skies…

I have also swapped to GSS after a few issues last week with EQMOD, thought I would give it a try, so all set up waiting for a clear night….👍🏼