Stuart1971

I did not say it fixed it, I said it was not evident in those images, and they were perfect from edge to edge….do you have one of these scopes…?? so tak have produced this flattener to supposedly fix the issue, that we have with smaller pixel cameras, so I am happy, and am not arguing the point with you…👍🏼

it is not a CC/FR it’s a field flattener…. Well that’s up to you to believe or not, but it’s true, do some research and you will see, also before I bought the 268 I had an older SX M25c with 8.5 micron pixels, and every image were perfect from edge to edge…so that proved it to me…look on CN there is loads of threads about it…and a few on here too…👍🏼

the centre of the field is perfect…. Yes got it sorted, it is because of my small pixel camera, the tak optices were designed for larger pixel cameras, and so when the new CMOS cameras came forward, there were issues with astigmatisms with these optics, with small pixels and larger sensors APS-C and above, so tak brought out an extra corrector / flattener to correct this, it is now supplied with any new FSQ85 but not with mine, so I have purchased this now…it’s a common issue I found out after some investigation…👍🏼

Because I took my dark library in the middle of the winter when it was 0 degrees, outside, also the cover is large and covers the whole mount and scopes, so plenty of air and room under….

Well, I find that these cameras are so sensitive that I have to do mine with the camera on the scope in my obsy which is pretty dark even in the day, with scope cap on and with a cover over the whole lot too, or I get light leak….and it does spoil the darks….

So,you would send with only £299 insurance cover against loss, or even stolen….?? 🤔🤔 If something goes wrong, like it’s lost, he is not back to square one at all, as he gets £299 back if lucky and no camera….how is that back to square one….

I have that filter and this was 1 hour, so can you let me know how you processed to get those colours…👍🏼

That’s a cracking image for just 1 hour 20mins…👍🏼 What filters did you use…?

Yes, that’s perfect for this set up, nice big pixels….and a good 1/2” sensor…👍🏼

I see no reason why not, plenty of back focus on the edge to get close, then fine focus with the Baader, OAG’s commonly used with SCT…I would say all good… I have used a similar set up with a Meade 8” SCT without issue You may need a really sensitive guide camera though with an OAG at those SCT focal lengths…the ASI174m mini is an excellent choice…👍🏼

It’s only in the top right and left corners though, surely it would show all over if a collimation issue….🤔

Hi all, I have a Tak FSQ85 scope being used with a QHY268c camera, and am getting some odd star shapes just at the top of my images, both right and left corners, they look almost like thick crosses, or diffraction spikes… now on the bottom left and right corners I get a slight star elongation, so would these two things be a sign of an issue such as sensor tilt or such like…? image below, of top left corner…

And that’s not confusing, 11.31 x 11.31 is not 1” diagonal….it's 16mm🤔🤔, so yes that is totally confusing….. I mean c’mon 1” class, what does that mean, many people have no idea….

You are correct and it’s totally confusing to anyone who does not understand, of which I am one of, I have had this discussion recently with QHY as they are advertising there new 533 mono camera with a 1” square sensor, which it a total misrepresentation, why can’t they just just put 16mm diagonal, it’s far easier to understand, it’s no where near 1” square…but to a newcomer or even someone who has been in the hobby for years, sees this and thinks wow 25mm x 25mm sensor, only to receive and find its approx 11mm x 12mm 🤔🤔

Sorry to read this, especially as I have been considering a retirement present to myself of one of these mount….so watching with interest….🤔

Ok….Dr Vlaiv…👍🏼

Ok, so,it’s a CCD, different story…..any length flats you like, as @vlaiv says use the ones that work…..👍🏼

I did say, CAN cause issues….👍🏼

Hmmm, have to disagree, as long as you send Royal Mail tracked service if it goes missing you can claim from Royal Mail, this happened to me once, and I had a successful claim, even though it was lost overseas with a partner service….you need to pay for a Royal Mail tracked service though…👍🏼

Do an online quote for the postage with the full camera cost….actually with Royal Mail special delivery and extra insurance it will me much cheaper than that, but with a courier no, will be more expensive…

If it’s a CMOS camera, then you need flats between about 3-5 seconds, any shorter and they can cause issues….

What are the different ways you are trying, I use dynamic brightness with 4 second exposures with an ADU of approx 26,000 and they work perfectly, with my QHY268c

If it gets lost and you have to claim, you will only get the cost you declared the item is worth….so think about it….🤔 Assuming you will insure…if you choose to insure for the full value, it will cost around £150 to send….

Is does not show the gain and offset because it’s a CCD camera and not a more modern CMOS version, the gain is never shown in the drivers of a CCD camera, it’s preset in the camera firmware and can’t be altered….

After you change the guide rate back to 0.5, you have to re calibrate anyway, don’t try and guide without doing that, also when entering your pixel size and focal length into PHD, it should work out the step size needed for calibration, also set where in the sky you will do the calibration, should be just due south at 30 degrees is best…👍🏼 you should not have anywhere near 51 steps, that’s the highest I have seen….Should be set at 12, and it should take between 8 and 12 normally…