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About scitmon

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    Star Forming

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    Lancashire, UK

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  1. I purchased mine a while ago and times have moved on since then... but it's a N34 Intel Mini PC (2.2Ghz CPU, 4GB RAM, 64GB SSD). Then I bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DCORUG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to power it from my DC Power Supply.
  2. Yes I am and I am also running it on 12v. It works really well for the most part. My only issues have been Wifi reception sometimes. Go for one with fast solid state memory, and keep on top of your Windows updates! There is nothing worse than setting up for a night of imaging and having Windows updates ruining your night.
  3. The Flats should have taken care of the vignetting. Did you use Av mode on your camera to take them? A green cast is common on DSLR's due to the bayer pattern having 2 green pixels for every 4 on the chip. They should process out easily and are nothing to worry about.
  4. Canon DSLR is a good starter camera then. As for which one, depends on your budget but they all will do a good job. I've seen a few in the classifieds recently, you may want to look there. I would also recommend looking at https://www.cheapastrophotography.com/Available-Cameras.html and see what your budget can get you. The next step up would be a cooled camera which starts at around £800, so if you start getting close to that I would look at those instead.
  5. What objects are you looking to photograph? Photographing large nebula is very different to imaging planets for example. If you are looking to do long exposure DSO's such as emission nebula then Canon DSLR's are a very good beginner option. You may even want to consider buying a modded one if you are solely using it for astrophotography.
  6. @wimvb may I ask why you Resampled the image? I wondering what the benefits are beyond the obvious memory saving.
  7. Some lovely detail there. I have been umming and arrring over the optolong dual band filters for my 700d so i'll be watching this thread with interest.
  8. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/askar-telescopes/askar-fra600-f56-108mm-quintuplet-apo-astrograph.html might be worth looking at?
  9. All the work is complete. I insulated the walls with PIR insulation boards, leaving a 25mm air gap to prevent moisture being held against the cladding. I did not ventilate the air gap like you would with a brick building because there wasn't any easy way to do so. I don't believe its entirely necessary as the cladding would absorb any moisture in the gap and dry out from the outside. As for the ceiling, I again used PIR insulation board, but left no air gap because the warmer air condensing in the gap against a colder ceiling is not a good idea. Also, and most importantly, I mad
  10. I assume you are talking about cement, concrete = cement + aggregates like sand and stone. You would probably be ok normal multipurpose cement, but I would be inclined to go for sulphate resistant cement for anything that is below ground level. I would also use a damp proof membrane between the concrete and earth to prevent it absorbing ground water.
  11. Absolutely gutted, I was going to order my SW pillar mount with my Christmas Vouchers this week, and its gone up 60 pound
  12. Before you do go and buy one, I would double check you can't get focus with a star or the moon. I don't know how much your moonlite focuser has effected the spacing, but I find it strange that just adding this rotator would throw it off so much.
  13. Yes, where you would normally screw your reducer onto the draw tube, you screw this adapter on instead. Then the t nose slides into the focuser like an EP would.
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