Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_31.thumb.jpg.b7a41d6a0fa4e315f57ea3e240acf140.jpg

scitmon

Members
  • Content Count

    383
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

169 Excellent

About scitmon

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lancashire, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/askar-telescopes/askar-fra600-f56-108mm-quintuplet-apo-astrograph.html might be worth looking at?
  2. All the work is complete. I insulated the walls with PIR insulation boards, leaving a 25mm air gap to prevent moisture being held against the cladding. I did not ventilate the air gap like you would with a brick building because there wasn't any easy way to do so. I don't believe its entirely necessary as the cladding would absorb any moisture in the gap and dry out from the outside. As for the ceiling, I again used PIR insulation board, but left no air gap because the warmer air condensing in the gap against a colder ceiling is not a good idea. Also, and most importantly, I mad
  3. I assume you are talking about cement, concrete = cement + aggregates like sand and stone. You would probably be ok normal multipurpose cement, but I would be inclined to go for sulphate resistant cement for anything that is below ground level. I would also use a damp proof membrane between the concrete and earth to prevent it absorbing ground water.
  4. Absolutely gutted, I was going to order my SW pillar mount with my Christmas Vouchers this week, and its gone up 60 pound
  5. Before you do go and buy one, I would double check you can't get focus with a star or the moon. I don't know how much your moonlite focuser has effected the spacing, but I find it strange that just adding this rotator would throw it off so much.
  6. Yes, where you would normally screw your reducer onto the draw tube, you screw this adapter on instead. Then the t nose slides into the focuser like an EP would.
  7. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-adapter-for-sky-watcher-focal-reducers.html might work? I successfully use this with the stock focuser, reducer and a dslr.
  8. I'm certainly no expert so don't take this as gospel, but whatever you attach to a battery will only attempt to draw the amps it need. So if your mount requires 5 amps, the battery will only give it the required 5 amps.
  9. Yes that makes sense. I may aswell keep the barlow and perhaps purchase a 24mm ep in the future, would give me a nice range or 6.7, 12 and 24.
  10. Just came across this post while researching my dilemma. I currently have a ES 6.7mm 82 degree and 2x Barlow for my Skymax 180, but considering selling them after I purchased a 9-27mm zoom ep. Will the ES offer much advantage, if any, over my zoom EP for planets and moon? I don't want sellers remorse.
  11. Are you working to a budget? Presuming you are not doing any long exposure photography, Alt-AZ is easier to use, but for heavier scopes can get pricey. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/alt-azimuth-astronomy-mounts/ioptron-az-mount-pro.html might be a winner?
  12. I get my electronic versions via a subscription to readly which is 7.99 a month. Granted quite a lot more money, but if you are interested in other magazines too (and newspapers) its not bad. Can also split cost with friends and family.
  13. Yes it is for guiding, never use it for anything else. Similarly with the 80ed, that is pretty much only used for imaging. I don't really see any point in keeping the 6.7mm either when I have 9mm in the Hyperflex zoom?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.