Stuart1971
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Everything posted by Stuart1971
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A few guys on the Pixinsight FB group told me the same thing, but maybe it’s just personal choice, but mine are 5 seconds long anyway, if it works then all good, was just passing on some advice I was given, I am new to PI…👍🏼 -
I have heard, that if you have dark flats less than 4 seconds, pixinsight and WBPP does not like them, just an FYI Many do use bias, but I have heard many recommend dark flats instead… I use 4 second flats, as I can set the brightness of my panel to give 4 seconds, it’s one of the deep sky dad, motorised panels that’s fixed to the end of the scope, it’s really superb
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Superb….👍🏼 try Darks as you have but Dark Flats instead of bias frames, as this seems to work better with these cameras, also about 4-5 second flats and dark flats, is optimum…
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Also the Altair Astro version is the same camera , and cheaper than ZWO and QHY…👍🏼
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CMOS cameras with AR window or UV/IR block?
Stuart1971 replied to oymd's topic in Discussions - Cameras
Here you go, the AA mono version comes with just an AR window…no UV/IR https://www.altairastro.com/altair-hypercam-26m-aps-c-mono-camera-16bit-7974-p.asp from the specs page Sensor Optical Window Mono 26M: 380-1050nm AR coated Colour 26C: UVIR filter 400-690nm AR coated -
CMOS cameras with AR window or UV/IR block?
Stuart1971 replied to oymd's topic in Discussions - Cameras
I don’t think the mono versions come with any filter like an UV/IR, it’s only the colour versions that have the option of that…but I may be wrong…I have the QHY268c and I have the choice of a UV/IR window or the AR window, and went for the AR as I wanted to use my own filters… -
Yes, horses for courses….if it ain’t broke….👍🏼
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Looks much better, 👍🏼 and yes, I am with you I don’t like the starless images either….the way you have done it, is a recognised way so all good….I think you could even reduce more TBH, but looks great…..👏🏻
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Will have a look at the ASI version, I have Avis, but it does not debayer…👍🏼
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Great image I have to say, but maybe reduce the amount of stars and the Nebula will pop even more…👍🏼
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Yes, FitsLiberator is good but does not debayer…I really want one that does both…🤔
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Does anyone know of a simple windows programme that I can view FITS files in, that will also debayer them, and show them as NINA does when they are taken, I have Avis Fits viewer, which is great, but it does not debayer….? Cheers Stuart
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On windows 11, you have to go into the windows features and enable .NET 3.5, as for some stupid reason it’s disabled by default, this should solve the issue…..👍🏼 EDIT, my mistake I see you have already done this, so ignore me….👍🏼
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I have the EQ8 pro mount, it’s the older version, but works very well, it’s a beast of a mount, and ideal for the use you mention. ‘The older and newer ones can suffer from a bit of DEC backlash, this is normal for these mounts, although it shouldn’t be, but I don’t really find it an issue, but some people do…Other than that I can’t fault mine….👍🏼
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Get the Voxelab Aquilla x2, it just works straight out of the box, never had an issue in 2 years, never had a print not stick, just bed level manually every few weeks, and just clean the bed with IPA before every print….blows the other cheap printers out of the water….in my opinion, I sent my creality rubbish straight back, and the Aquilla used many of the same parts too, so go figure…but the bed is different, and that maybe the issue….
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does the glue on the bed, not ruin the bottom of the print, or does it still come off silky smooth with no flaws….?
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So is this an EQMOD cable from handset port on mount to PC, or a direct USB port on mount to USB on PC, if it’s the later, then it can get enough power to put the light on through the USB cable…
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Has there been a COM port number change, since last time you used…?
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EQMOD or GSS driver…?
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I am talking about manual levelling, I don’t bother with auto, too much of a faff….👍🏼
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None of that requires the Z offset to be touched, just re level the bed….
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Why tweak the Z offset, just re level the bed and leave the offset well alone, I really don’t understand why anyone needs to adjust the Z offset…..it’s a pointless setting if all else is set properly….🤔🤔
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I have never had any adhesion issues, I always have Z offset at 0 (where it should be) and bed level with a thin piece of paper, then wash the bed with soapy water, dry and give a good clean with IPA, never had to resort to any of these Pritt stick methods or anything like that, I do this about every 3 or 4 prints but do wipe down with IPA between each print, bed seems to stay level for a good while….👍🏼
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Mini pc question
Stuart1971 replied to Anthonyexmouth's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Lol, exactly how I do it, clone the old drive onto the new one, and then format the old one, and as you say Macrium is superb, used it many times…..👍🏼 -
Mini pc question
Stuart1971 replied to Anthonyexmouth's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Go back to the beginning of July on the equipment tab, under astrophotography….
