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About KEJ

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  1. ** Update ** ******************************************************************************************************** William Optics (Tim - Taiwan) replied to an email of mine. He basically confirmed for a Nikon DSLR and my setup, using the 61A Flattener etc the gap should be set to 12.9mm ********************************************************************************************************
  2. Tim at William Optics(Taiwan) replied to an email of mine. For a Nikon DSLR the gap should be 12.9mm If you use DSLR, the setting for your flattener should be 12.9mm. Setup: ZS61 + Flat61a + t mount + DSLR (settings 12.9mm).
  3. Stu Thank you, I know most of the guys on here have super high quality images, but I am pleased. Plus, I know I didn't have my polar alignment 100%, could have maybe gone out on the moors for a darker site, coupled with more exposures and longer focal length and it was even slightly breezy. But thank you.
  4. So my first decent attempt at DSO (thanks Stuart and ok no where near the standards of people on here, but I'm pleased) M81 & M82 from the City, no filters or modified camera, I was using a full frame, next time I will use my DX(cropped camera). The battery died on my wireless intervalometer as it was a bit chilly after about 50mins else I would have gone for more exposures. SharpCap polar aligned (only with fair), one star alignment with SynScan and then I used an older version of SkySafari (not beta version) to find these. Using a Nikon D800, AZ-GTI, WO Z61 & WO 61A Flattener (set at 12.9mm, still not 100% sure that is correct). 360mm FL, approx 20/25 x 2min exposures, had to crop in (hence next time using the DX) and these were towards the bottom of the frame.
  5. Pems hi Thank you for replying. Sorry, just took some test shots and added my last comment then saw your reply..............but dinner was on the table(Boss was calling). I did mention above, but it was a drawn out question.............I have a Nikon D3300 (cropped DX) and a Nikon D800 (FF). Adapter Nikon M48 T-Adapter - say just over 1 cm,. However, I would say approx 6mm screws onto/over the Flattener, meaning there is possibly about a 4mm gap. Without taking it to bits(all setup ready for tonight) it could be less or more. I will try your suggestion tomorrow - thank you. Dark Picture Picture dimming was my fault(D800), school boy error, the LCD/LED display not that bright on reviewing pictures(after), but very bright on preview(before), when viewed on Computer straight from SD card after all fine. Just back to the settings.......I did try 14.40(M52), then 12.90(M48) and even 0. 12.9 appeared to give me the sharper corners, I haven't tried any other settings yet Thanks
  6. Further play. 12.9 seems the best for me. Comments welcome. Cheers
  7. Hi I hope you don't mind me asking, but did you get to the bottom of this ? Could I please ask for some technical assistance on a small issue I have with my William Optics Z61 scope + 61A Flattener. Basically, I have now added Nikon M48 T adapter to my setup so that I can take some astrophotography pictures by attaching a camera. So I have the following configuration: Camera – M48 adapter – 61A Flattener – Z61 scope I believe I have correctly adjusted the flattener using the calculation for a Nikon : 69.2 - 54.8 = 14.40 setting for the WO flattener. based on M52 Or 67.7 - 54.8 = 12.9 setting for the WO flattener. based on M48 So in the end looking at the diagram assumed I required to set it at 12.9 based on my adapter. I am also assuming this is the same distance for both a DX(cropped sensor ) and FF(Full Frame sensor) Nikon cameras(DSLR). The very odd thing is for my DX camera(cropped D3300) the picture seems fine, but for the FF camera (D800) the picture is very dark. Ok so you assume it’s the ISO or shutter speed and I am on Manual, but I have adjusted the ISO up and down, same with the shutter speeds up and down etc. I am starting to wonder is the Z61 + A61 really designed just for cropped(DX) cameras or do you think I have done something wrong, then of course I came across this and now as you suggested should I be closed setting it to Zero ? I hope all that makes sense and I look forward to your reply. Hopefully thanks in advance
  8. Tommohawk I will drop you a PM Thanks
  9. Mark hi I will send you a message. Kind regards Keith
  10. The other very useful info I was unaware of, quote from above: I have it in equatorial mode with the wedge,i set it facing north at 90 minus my latitude In my case approx 90 - 50 = 40 ! I had initially had my set to 50 degrees!!!!! You live and learn.
  11. Another add-on from David Parks https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/658474-skywatcher-synscanaz-gti-alignment-instructions/ Two parts Part01 As a precursor, create a User Object > Terrestrial Objects and specify Axis 1 = -90 / Axis 2 = 90. Name it EQ Home. You can Goto this position any time you need to return the scope to EQ Home, and more importantly, any time you need to get your mount to agree with the real world. If your scope doesn’t actually match after this Goto, then you can loosen clutches and move your mount/scope into EQ Home. This ensures your mount’s Axis actually matches the real world scope position. Once it does, don’t loosen your clutches for anything (unless you have turned Auxiliary Encoders on) 1. First perform a 2 or 3 star alignment Before your first alignment: 1a. With the GTi power off, loosen clutches and set your scope in the EQ Home position 1b. Turning on the power, the GTi Axis will be reset to (-90, 90), and now matches the actual position 1c. Open Synscan, connect in EQ Mode, and check under Utility > Information to confirm that your Axis reads (-90, 90), and the Az/Alt reads (-90, 90). If it doesn’t, there is likely a previous alignment still in memory. Reset Alignment and check Utility > Information again. (Current version 1.16.1 on iOS will require you to close and remove Synscan from memory) 1d. Proceed with a 2 or 3 star alignment 2. Then polar align with 1 star by adjusting the EQ base controls You got it, just follow the Synscan prompts, pretty straight forward 3. Select Reset Alignment in the synscan app 4. Adjust mount again (loosen clutches) and return the mount to home position Switch these two steps, and don’t loosen clutches 3. Select and Goto your EQ Home User Objects > Terrestrial Objects. (This keeps your scope and Axis in sync) 4. Reset Alignment (and close and remove Synscan from memory if you are using iOS 1.16.1) 5. Perform a 2 or 3 star alignment again Note: Steps 1a and 1b above is the same as a GoTo your EQ Home User Object, and then loosening clutches to move your scope into the matching EQ Home position. Hope this helps! EDIT: Oops, the saved EQ Home User Object should be Axis 1 = -90, Axis 2 = 90 AZ Mode North Level is Axis 1 = 0, Axis 2 = 0 Edited by davidparks, 22 April 2019 - 07:37 AM. tkottary and trurl like this #22 davidparks Viking 1 TOPIC STARTER Posts: 604 Joined: 20 Jul 2017 Loc: Battle Creek, MI - USA Part 02 Posted 21 April 2019 - 11:35 PM Getting your AZ-GTi right with the world: Key to successful alignments and GoTo’s are having the following 3 elements in sync: 1. Digital Axis - This is your mount, where the GTi thinks it is pointing 2. Physical Axis - This is your scope, where it is pointing in the real world 3. Synscan Az/Alt - This is the sky model that Synscan uses to translate celestial coordinates into digital Axis positions. You can view your Digital Axis and Az/Alt in Synscan using the Utility > Information screen. You can confirm a sky model is present if there are stars listed under Alignment > Align with Sync Getting 1, 2, and 3 on the same page: 1. Power on your mount, this should set your Axis to (AZ Mode 0, 0)(EQ Mode -90, 90), or 1. Create and Goto a User Object > Terrestrial Object for AZ Mode with Axis1 = 0, Axis2 = 0 (AZ Mode North Level) 1. Create and Goto a User Object > Terrestrial Object for EQ Mode with Axis1 = -90, Axis2 = 90 (EQ Mode Home) 2. Loosen clutches, move your scope into Home position Home position for AZ Mode is scope pointing at the due north horizon Home position for EQ Mode is shown in my user account avatar picture, pointing at the celestial pole 3. Select Reset Alignment in Synscan from the Alignment screen. In AZ Mode, Az/Alt will read (0, 0) In EQ Mode, Az/Alt will read (-90, 90) If Reset Alignment isn’t available, then there is no current sky model and Az/Alt is already in Sync You will also need to close Synscan and remove it from device memory if you are using Synscan Pro for iOS version 1.16.1. Hopefully this reported bug will be fixed in the next version. This bug doesn’t effect Synscan for Windows PC. I don’t know for Android. After any alignment routine, you will notice that Az/Alt no longer matches Axis. This is the result (and function) of Confirming Center when centering alignment stars. The discrepancy between Az/Alt and Axis compensates for physical placement errors (north, level, polar, etc.) If you are experiencing wonky Goto behavior, make sure you have your 1, 2, 3’s in order Edited by davidparks, 22 April 2019 - 07:39 AM. Addition : North-Level Alignment is only available in AZ Mode. Yes it is worth roughly centering Polaris when using EQ Mode. If Polaris is not visible, set your scope as best you can pointing north, and elevated to 90-Your Latitude. Reset Alignment, 2-Star Alignment, Polar Alignment, Reset Alignment, 2-Star Alignment This should leave your mount accuracy polar aligned, and star aligned for GoTo operation You should be able to do many minute exposures without star trails. How many will depend greatly on your focal length. Be sure to practice, getting as much experience as you can before you trip, have fun!
  12. Popped out last night with the "Equatorial Goto(German)" settings. Polar aligned, then one star alignment and managed to get a poor Comet Atlas C/2019 Y4 using my Nikon DSLR(unmodified) and 300mm lens F4.5-5.6, cropped in and stacked.
  13. Can I pick your brains please as most of you seem far more experienced than I am on all of this. Based on my setup above: For my Mount Type I have selected (Alt-Az Goto) and I am saying that seems to work. Although, I am thinking as I type, actually I am using a wedge so strictly speaking should I be selecting a Equatorial mount type, I am guessing ? And thinking about it, I seem to remember watching some Youtube videos and one guy(I think) stating that you should use (Equatorial Goto (German)) ? So part of me is thinking actually, I should probably be using the German option, else am I being fooled into thinking its pointing at an object I cannot see with the naked eye and assuming all is well! I hope my question makes sense that really I should be selecting a EQ option? Comments/suggestions appreciated thank you.
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