DaveL59

yet to try any imaging but good to know the Synscan on EQ5 might be able to achieve some results, I've been considering getting an RA drive for the other EQ5 just to make things easier when viewing too. I picked mine up used and then swapped the Goto kit to the other EQ5 that came with the TAL100RS as the mount it was on is a bit sticky on the RA axis, fine manually but didn't run well with the motors, it'll be overhauled one day...

you've not said where you are based, but at the moment Saturn and Jupiter are very low to the south west here in the UK as darkness falls. You'd need a clear horizon and no clouds and a bit of luck and clarity may not be great with them so low. Mars tho is possible as it is quite high but will be very small so picking out much detail other than it is orange may not be easy now it is moving away from us.

the SW EQ2 doesn't use a dovetail unless yours is a new improved version, the tube rings bolt onto the mount head, but that said an EQ-goto mount will certainly accept those rings onto the short dovetail supplied with them, at least I can do that with my EQ5 mount should I choose to. A potential alternative tho less accurate would be to use a smartphone with app in a phone holder mounted to the scope. You would then effectively have a push-to where you are guided to target but have to manually manipulate the mount/controls to find it. There's a couple ways to do this: First using a free app (Skeye) How to get quick and easy polar alignment and add a Push-To finder screen to an EQ2 mounted scope, all for £20. - Getting Started With Observing - Stargazers Lounge A second, more expensive option (as you need to buy the scope for the unlock key), using the Celestron Starsense Explorer app Starsense Explorer Stand Alone Conversion - Discussions - Mounts - Stargazers Lounge The starsense app has a more limited database than a full goto system but with clear enough skies will actually plate-solve to know where it is aimed so more accurate in guiding you to target. If you go this route then you could buy the cheapest one but the LT models are quite wobbly and the reflector models are not great. The DX models are ok, more expensive but more stable so could replace the SW130 you have, for example. These are not EQ tho so no automated tracking, all manual operation. Now, the downside of the EQ2 is it is a bit wobbly, hopefully you also have the clockwork RA drive? This makes things a little easier as the scope will track by itself once on target, so long as you have roughly got the RA axis aimed North. A motor focuser can help reduce the shakes too tho adds costs. I bought a couple Tasco 1603's from the US, not cheap when you ass shipping tho still only around £20-£25 each. Easily fits on the SW130. Tasco 1603EF motor focuser and LT70AZ mods - DIY Astronomer - Stargazers Lounge Optically I find the SW130 is quite good tho it gets far less use than the other scopes I have.

ahh that's a neat idea, hadn't thought of that one. Not really had a proper play with mine yet with the skies the way they have been but now I have the DSLR I might switch this back for the polar scope, thanks for that! Oh and yeah I think one of the tangs did snap on mine, they're pretty old after all.

hopefully someone will be along that can help further as I've never attempted a re-flash on my SW Synscan, don't have the right cable and so far not felt the need 🙂

can't help regarding the reset/recovery, but the 19k2 likely refers to the serial baud rate. I don't know if its possible to try a lower speed such as 9k6 that might be more reliable tho slower.

Nice one Steve, will remember that for when I get around to doing mine some day too 🙂

day of the triffids here after the post dropped in A couple vintage Velbon tripods (VS-3 and lightweight HE-3), tho I have swapped the head off the lightweight one for a Manfrotto ball since it was missing the pan handle so not usable as was. Added the 323 plate also so it'll be quick and easy to clip the camera/big telephoto etc onto it.

funnily enough, the physics master at my school was a member of the magic circle and he taught us some magic as off-curricular studies 🙂

does this help at all? THE FIRMAMENT - Solar System and Deep Sky webcam images There's a number of posts on here on the motorised mounts tho how much they'd help I can't say, likewise on cloudynights forum.

I'd wonder what the effect of any adhesives they use burning off in the upper atmosphere, having had recent close up experience of these particulate boards burning and the awful smell. Nothing like injecting chemical agents directly into the ionosphere and affecting the ozone layer etc.

it's quite a different language, not a great comment really 😞

An interesting new career possibility could be coming up, building wood satellites 🙂 Japan developing wooden satellites to cut space junk - BBC News

I wonder if it is indeed a mirror diagonal or perhaps a prism one? Does the diagonal give good views in daylight and right way up?

maybe fit a couple lens hoods, tho perhaps not like the one on that big old Zeiss I've recently got...

very nicely done Adam! 🙂

thanks Andy, a nicely written review, tho I wouldn't say Nikon got lucky with the glass, they're oft regarded as an Alpha brand on the optical side 😉

not sure if it's the same scope but I have a SW130EQ2, no idea if it is a parabolic or spherical mirror or if that'd affect the dimensions. Happy to measure up the tube tho if it'd be useful. I would say there's probably no harm in extending the OTA out beyond the secondary a bit further than the SW tube is to prevent stray light and maybe help with dewing, tho others more experienced in building will likely know better than me. Measured from the mirror end of the tube (mirror fitted so the end of the cell block) up to the centre of the focuser is 74.5cm and to the top of the tube 83cm.

one of mine is in mostly when it's wet or cold out, the black kitty tho, he's out regardless but comes in frequently to warm up and demand treats and food. Should I dare to go to bed he'll wander in and complain that I'm not serving him.

I have a Giottos with the foot, well it can have if you undo the end and extract them to fit in the base. I do find it can be useful esp with a camera, tho also with binos depending on how much flexibility you need in terms of tilting the angle relative to ground. Sadly these aren't made any more I think (MM5580)

good luck with the investigations. Depending on how mechanically minded you are it may be possible to replace with alternatives. @markse68 on here rebuilt his with a different motor and gearing so may be able to offer some advice on that front. I think he detailed it on a thread on here too.

East of England are well regarded but with C19 they're not doing much at the moment from what others have said, worth a try tho East of England Binoculars, Binoculars, Spotting Scopes, Monoculars, Tripods (eebc.co.uk) I don't think they'd be too hard to take apart, just watch out for the little grub screw in the large brass end screw on the centre pivot, under the trim plate with the IPD marker. Just a case of working slowly and methodically, upside being you're only really working on the mechanicals not taking the glass out. In essence: remove the IPD trim plate undo the little grub screw (no need to remove fully) and unscrew the large brass clamp screw slip the eyepiece carriers off the focuser shaft probably need to do similar at the other end of the focuser (remove clamp screw) separate the two sides to get access to the focus wheel and mechanism, note any shims and position of service the focuser (slip the rubber grip off, dismantle, clean out old grease, reassemble with new grease) refit in reverse. Thing is without a nice pictorial guide it can be a bit of a voyage of discovery in how some bits come out, sometimes easier to let someone else do the work 🙂

heh yeah I recall copydex back in the 70-80's, stank like long dead fish even tho it worked. If I recall we used it along the cut edges of carpet to seal so things wouldn't unravel since it dries clear unlike evostik. Sadly lots of the stuff that was good back then have changed, various regs since the EU and of course awareness of carcinogens etc. Same for lens glass since they can no longer use lead and other exotics.

yeah I think that's the issue really, most are pretty powerful, tho you could always blank out part of the front to reduce the amount of light thrown or perhaps open it up and remove some of the LEDs...

Surprised you don't get some IR flare but then you're using a reflector with a long dew shield which may make a difference. On a frac if the IR hits the objective them you may well get false "stars", I do notice that on my sky cams where the IR hits the dome/lens even with the IRcut filter. I do have Hik gear in the main, well the NVR at least, the cameras are Hik compatibles (Annke and anon brands) but yeah in the current arena choose another but who isn't doing some sort of tracking etc with cameras in the new big-brother surveillance world we now live in. For the connections, I use a dielectric grease in the network and power ports, helps prevent moisture issues and other than leaving you with greasy fingers when handling the connectors during maintenance is quick, easy and effective. Amalgamating tape can work but you don't want to be pressing the locking tab in and the slightest gap that lets moisture in will lead to issues when it can't easily escape. Totally agree on the separate IR illuminator with regard spiders, also the swarms of tiny insects that rush toward it that can look like a rain storm heading into the lens. Downside is you lose the Smart-IR that some cameras so you have a trade off: better exposure under IR or insect action and regular web clearing