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About old_eyes

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    Proto Star

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    North Wales
  1. Just seen my first naked eye ISS pass. Very bright against the twilight. No imaging for me tonight, it is too bright, but nice to be pooling around with binoculars and seeing the ISS.
  2. Friends and family have been wondering what I have been up to recently and asked for some images from my new observatory. I collected the nicest 10 in this twitter thread I am all too conscious that these are the beginning of a journey, and there is a long way to go to emulate the masters on SGL. I see the flaws, but friends and family have enjoyed and praised them. It gives you confidence. And actually, reviewing them, they are not bad for a shakedown season with new equipment. I am pretty pleased with what I achieved and look forward to improving. We often beat ourselves up over noisy backgrounds, poor focus, guiding problems, colour issues and so on. Sometimes it takes the inexpert eye to remind us just how amazing it is to be able to produce such images from our back gardens.
  3. Very useful. I have made a note of that tool. Thanks
  4. Sorry I don't. I could not keep my hands off of it so started playing immediately. Then had a mad rush to make sure it would do what I thought I wanted before the trial period expired . Check the forum, but I am pretty sure it starts when you install as a unique code is generated for your machine. @Leonardo Orazi may answer.
  5. Hi All, I am beginning to use Voyager and will watch (and participate in) this thread with interest. With the construction of my observatory and the potential for longer 'unattended' periods of running, I moved from APT to NINA for sequence control. This worked fine, but isn't really set up for observatory control and therefore meant I could not go to bed untill the squence was finished (unless I trusted the weather!). I like the interface of NINA, it's very intuitive, and it worked fine, but didn't do everything I wanted. So, on to Voyager. I considered SGP, but liked the even greater options offered by Voyager and its rapid pace of development. I have used sequences and on-the-fly, but not yet dragscript. Further automation of the ROR is planned for the summer at which point scripts will become more important. The bits I have tried work well, once I had got my mind around the concept and sorted out some misconceptions. I use the robofire focusing and it has worked well for me giving me at least as good results as I got from NINA and manual focusing. I found it faster than the NINA focus process. For platesolving I have used ASTAP. You have to trick Voyager into thinking it is Platesolve2, but there are clear instructions and it is easy to do https://www.hnsky.org/astap.htm#voyager. I have purchased Viking, a Velleman VM110N interface card, and a 16 relay card to handle the automation of the Obsy, but have nothing connected up yet. I am still sketching connections and working out how I can sense everything with the number of digital inputs available. The wiki and the forum have lots of examples of scripts to do differnet things and I think I understand what I will need to do. Looking forward to everyone's experiences, tips and tricks. Very glad that @Leonardo Orazihas joined us to keep an eye on what we are up to.
  6. I agree. I used to be terrified of meridian flips, but now I have a permanent setup, software just deals with it. I have probably done no more than about 25 so far, but every one has been flawlessly executed by both NINA and Voyager, the two control packages I have been playing with. I have had plenty of other problems, but meridian flips in the middle of a capture sequence have not been one of them. I would be interested to know the arguments for increasing rig cost and complexity to avoid flips when the cost to do it in software is so trivial.
  7. Many claim to. They have heated surfaces to prevent dew and to dry quickly when it stops raining. So will quickly form a thin layer of water when snow falls.
  8. Just getting dark here. Going to have a play with the moon.
  9. Thanks Steve. Very interesting.
  10. Isee the forum censor has made my extremely mild cursing look much worse than it actually was!
  11. Yes I can see that an "ooh, it's getting pretty murky!" signal could be a useful warning. So you don't bother with the 'cloudy' level and allow the stronger 'overcast' message to trigger the programmes "oh [removed word]!" events?
  12. Nah! Gravity lensing is the way to go! I wonder where I put that mini black hole?
  13. I have got a few days left (couple of degrees south of you), but not a great forecast. Still there is nautical dark and an opportunity to keep fiddling with alignment, focus etc; as well as the moon.
  14. Sometimes when you finally solve a problem it is just plain embarassing. What is the first thing to check when some computerised gear is behaving oddly? Check the cables! So I did swap the USB cables and I did go direct to the computer USB port (all of them) instead of the internal CEM60EC hub. Which cable did I not swap, because it is so simple? The power cable. Switched to a different power cable for the camera and the last of the banding vanished. I think I am still better off with all the other things I found that made it better, but the root problem was a noisy power cable. Sometimes I think this hobby hates me!
  15. Not sure of the relative weights of the components, but if the upper shutter is fairly light, how about a magnetic coupling between the two? On the way up when the lower lip of the lower shutter engages with the upper shutter rare earth magnets link them together. This prevents the upper shutter slipping down. On the return journey, when the upper shutter reaches its end stop the winch pulls the lower sutter free and it continues on its journey. It might be getter to do the same thing the other way round with the upper shutter lower edge linked magnetically to the upper edge of the lower shutter. The two shutters move as one until the upper shutter reaches its end stop. The winche then separates the magnets and continues to move the lower shutter to its end position. A more mechanically complicated design would be to have the two shutters linked by a pivoted pin that passes through both lower and upper shutters in the closed position. The arm extends to the side of teh shutter and operates much like the trigger on a medieval crossbow as the upper shutter approaches its final poistion. the end of the arm away from the pin passes over some kind of ramp, cam, bump, that despresses the pivoted arm and withdraws the pin; allowing the lower shutter to continue on its way.
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