DaveL59

most modern switch-mode PSU's are only using the 2 pins (L&N) and are "double insulated" so don't need to be earthed. Sadly tho you'll need a 2-pin socket to UK 3-pin plug in order to use it, a shaver plug perhaps or a proper continental adaptor if it's the german or swiss type which are different. Downside here is you have the potential to make contact with the pins as you plug/unplug. Better would be to return it and order one with a UK plug.

Hi Pat and welcome. Not sure if this applies but android devices often need you to allow permission for apps to access some aspects, tho there is usually a pop-up notification asking for this. Worth checking if the app is being allowed to access the GPS data which should be in the settings - apps menu. Opening the app in there should show what permissions it has been granted.

the long river placed dropped some of this off, along with a book on the A77ii. The 303 was bought to rejuvinate the rubber grips on some of my old lenses that had gone grey/white Usefully adds UV protection too and only needs a tiny amount, tho the lens above needed a toothbrush to get into the tiny ridges. I expect it may help on eyecups too, will have a gradual work through on those over time, but on the camera lenses they look like new after cleaning up with this stuff.

Happy Birthday Nigella 🙂

I have a 12.5mm fullerscope and it is very good so not a bad stop-gap if you decide to go for it. Mine was a bit battered on the black metalwork but I've stripped it down and cleaned the rough edge up with a fine file and touched up the paint. Also cleaned the lenses and blacked the edges while I was at it. Real fiddly working with such tiny lenses but much clearer once cleaned up and no jagged metal edge to snag the fingers on.

There are a few holders that use a velcro strap to secure the bin, downside can be that the IPD shifts when you tighten them down and them shifting as you pan upwards. Something like these Snapzoom Universal Binocular Tripod Mount: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo

managed to have a chat with the dad from next door, he's happy to angle the sensor and light away from my garden. I suggested when it's better weather as they've other priorities to get the place finished for moving in and no rush from my side. Lets face it I ain't exactly out trying to observe with the current weather! Hopefully a good result and a happy neighbour 🙂

Looks quite like the Opticron one that I have, very solid and doesn't flex tho I'm not using super heavy bino's on it.

assume you mean this part? Orion 7589 Binocular Mount Adapter: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo The 2-hole spacing you'd be able to measure up from the parallelogram mount, the other you'd need to source a 1/4-20 screw and give it sufficient clearance from the mount to be able to tighten it up so that'll depend on what 1/4 thumbscrew you can source.

yep stock levels everywhere will be low at the moment. Nothing wrong with used as what you save can be banked toward some better eyepieces etc. Just check and if possible have demonstrated that the goto functions well in both axes. You will also need a means to power it so a powerbank is likely going to be next on your list.

wow they look almost mint and if they do what you need at that price... 🙂

I guess the benefit of having the GoTo over manual will depend on what your skies are like where you plan to observe from and perhaps knowledge of what's up there that you want to try to see. In light polluted areas it can certainly help you to find targets that you won't be able to see to star-hop to. Also it'll keep the scope on target once you have found it, removing the need to try to nudge accurately to keep it in view. You don't say what your interest areas are, if it's moon and planets then GoTo is perhaps less useful in that they are relatively easy to target by hand.

a bit like all those shots of your own foot in the old SLR days 😉

tape might do, perhaps the double-sided carpet tape as that'd have a strong bond, or 3M and similar high strength type. Hard part will be to make the join areas survive handling and not lift. This stuff might work tho it seems to be foam type so gaps between strips of tape will show 3M VHB 5952 Adhesive Tape Simple Permanent Bonding with Double Coated Tape, Filmic Liner, 19 mm x 3 m, Black, 1 x Roll of Tape: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science or this wider one 3M 5925 Double Sided Tape, Roseberry Heavy Duty Mounting Waterproof VHB Foam Tape, 4.8m Length, 24mm Width for Car Decor,Home Decor and Office Decor: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

ouch, perhaps that Evostik reacted with the leatherette, I recall original evostik used to smell pretty potent so perhaps the solvents in it are too strong for the material you're using. I used the Bostix leather glue when I did the camera handgrip which worked ok and isn't strong smelling. Once you have a section stuck well, no reason you can't then do a larger section either side of it next and then secure it down with tape. At least the alignment is there and fixed which will make the remainder easier. For the camera grip I had to do that in 3 passes so it'd form into the dip at the upper end, then the main grip body and sides and lastly the edge around the battery bay. I did have a slight overlap at one edge but that was an easy trim with a blade once the glue had set. Didn't use lots of pressure as I applied it over the wet glue, so just enough to get it bedded in and push any air out then tape down tight till it had set.

If you are getting a fuzzy disc then perhaps a small adjustment to focus is needed as it should be sharply defined. At the moment Jupiter and Saturn are quite low here in the UK and with the weather lately getting a nice clear view will be down to luck in terms of atmospheric conditions.

yeah I was thinking that but watching F1 Qualy at the time so wasn't an ideal opportunity to try 😉 If it comes away and needs to be redone tho I would likely try and see if it can be heat molded into a single piece fit. Perhaps lay in hot water so its is extra flexible and then stretch if into place until it sets to shape, then trim and glue. This camera is retired tho so won't be seeing any real use, it just bugged me having owned it from new and costing me a fortune at the time. Funny how a lot of the top brands rubberised coverings degrade so badly tho, seen similar comments on other big brands so isn't just Minolta and yet some of the cheaper end of the market stuff just goes on forever 😞

Hi Ash The leatherette arrived this morning so have had a quick test on the M9000 grip having removed the hard crumbling rubber. Cut a rough template in paper and then cut out a section to match. It'll need glue around the edges for sure and at the tucks where I've had to take narrow triangles out to cope with the curves in the grip. Probably I'll apply some glue lightly across the entire grip tho as it won't be ideal if it slips in use. I think it'll be a suitable solution to restore the camera grip tho so pretty pleased. I'd happily use this on binos but again would add some glue just to increase adhesion. One advantage of the sticky-back stuff, you can fit it, get it aligned right then peel back a bit to apply glue knowing the rest stays put and then it stays aligned. So after doing that and binding with masking tape, repeat on the other side. Here's the finished grip. Could've been slightly thicker to match the ridge edges but it'll do nicely I think 🙂

A neoprene washer might help increase the grip as it gets compressed. If I recall the opticron bracket I have has one so holds the regular bins I have nicely and they don't tilt. Don't have any large 15x ones tho but a washer may help,

Jessops are generally mediocre tbh, will just be a badged china made bino. Perhaps worth trying them and see how they perform for you and decide, since it's a friend offering them. Otherwise, consider a known brand like the Olympus DPS or similar if you're after porro's.

Brasso may work, or believe it or not, tin foil scrunched up and rubbed against the area. Can't comment re the above remarks about the steel makers but stainless does rust regardless of where it is made, usually tho if in contact with other metal like plain steel and in damp conditions. You can even find that on good quality stainless cutlery if left in the sink long enough with some other implement resting against it.

Today the man in red knocked at the door and handed me a package that contained this. Direct from China via Ali arrived in 5 days. Should be handy for the odd easy/lazy snapshot via the eyepiece 🙂

sadly all cloud drifting by here from the west. Did get a glimpse of Mars in a brief gap and the moon shining nicely thru the cloud while out for a smoke but no point getting scopes out to just be frustrated.

Astroturf 😉 (yep John, the pun finally twigged with me lol) Luckily my "lawn" is that stuff and it saves the gear and me getting muddy. Downside here tho has been heavy rain as that seems to sit on top for quite a while for some reason. As per Mark, the starsense gizmo, makes locating stuff real simple. I'd agree re a flip mirror too, since playing initially with the SPC900 webcam I got a cheap one, much easier to get onto target with that tho I've yet to put much effort into trying to capture anything. Electric focuser - so much more convenient and no shakes induced making getting good focus that bit easier.

probably best at least on the DSO side. As said, you can still hook the camera up and do the moon and planets and then see if its really something you want to develop further. I have an old Philips SPC900 webcam that has a 1.25-inch adaptor on it and have briefly played with that but results so far have been poor. Not helped of course by testing on the wobbly LT70AZ but limited time and it being the lighter and easier unit to pop outside... One day I'll get the EQ5-syscan set up and give it a proper try when skies are clearer and I've the patience to do all the setup and then getting the target onto the sensor etc. I did order a T2 adaptor for the new DSLR so may try that one day, but I'm more visual so it'd be more experimental than anything for me. Not sure I want to be shelling out a small fortune for UHC/Oiii and other filters, guidescope etc nor spending hours capturing data to process.