Jump to content

30 secs banner.jpg


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Bukko last won the day on July 18 2019

Bukko had the most liked content!


402 Excellent

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    SW France

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The plate does look like an exquisite piece of engineering and a $500 price tag for small prioduction run seems more than reasonable for the design and work carried out. However. To hold an AVX mount, the plate is so over-engineered and the cost to do such a basic task is ridiculous. With a Newt, the ota is likely to hit the plate when getting close to the zenith. I get really close with my 8" pier and CEM70 - within the extra 2" radius for sure... Just my 20 cents worth... Gordon.
  2. Hello Aldrin, I do not recognise the shutter mechanism - I have the 3m version - what size is your dome? If the teeth of the cog is slipping out, then the motor assembly needs to me adjusted to make the teeth engage better. As I said, I do not recognise the mechaanism, so can't help you on what to adjust. But the motor and rearbox should be on a bracket that can be adjusted. Could you take a picture showing how the assembly connects to the dome? Gordon.
  3. Hi Paul, Just a few thoughts... Having a single trench is OK, I assume you will have a separate conduit for the power and signal cables? I assume the conduit would be a coil? Is so, it should have a draw wire running through it, so all you need to do is securely attach the cable to the wire and pull. It might be neccessary for someone to also push at the other end, if it gets tight... If you are using straight lengths, then push some wire ahead as you join them together. It would also be a good idea to separate the two conduits as much as you can in the trench. Anything is better than nothing. If you use armoured cable, ground the armour and it will act like a faraday cage and reduce interference. And solid strand Ethernet cable can easily be bent pretty tightly. I would not keep tightly bending and straightening it more than neccessary, but making a 90 degree bend should not be much of a problem. Good luck. Gordon.
  4. Just a thought... If they only jump in time, would the earth not be there when you stop jumping? And possibly for that matter, the rest of the solar system too if you jump enough... Gordon.
  5. As you are finding out, there is no single answer, with both ROR and domes having as many positives as negatives. One common positive is significant reductions in setting up times. I also note your comment about DIY. Both options will need home assembly but of course you can outsource this for a price. A dome will need an accurate base, probably more so than a ROR. Don't assume it will fit together perfectly out of the box. Circular or rectangular base will not really matter for the dome, I cast circular pads and it was a lot harder to get both circular, flat and especially level. I have fitted a dehumidifier to each dome and run them 24/7 to prevent the formation of dew. Where do you expect to go with your telescope? a 2.2m dome is probably limited to nothing bigger than a 12". A 12" Newt will fill the dome leaving little room to get around. I have a 12" f4 newt in a 3m dome and it often gets in the way while working around it... This would be where the ROR scores, but if you intend to always work this remotely, then its not such an impediment. Hope this helps. Gordon.
  6. I have the SBIG version and the dessicaant failed. Different design, there is a small bag secured in with the chip. Moisture manaaged to get into the miscolenses and changing the dessicand did not fix it. After a lot of thought, I disassembled the glass cover over the CCD and put the camera in a warm oven at about 45 degrees C for an hour. Re-assembled with fresh dessicaant and it is like new again. Not sure of the message, apart from don't ignore it, or if it does get really bad, there is a fix!! Gordon.
  7. Hi Krikus, I have a HEQ5 and run a William Optics FLT110 triplet frac on it. Plus filter wheel, cooled camera, OAG and guide camera. Still within the capabilities of the mount, it guides well. I would say the 110 frac is a good size for the mount, I guess you could go bigger, but I am happy with the combination. I get nothing like the wind effect a big newt would get... Hope this helps. Gordon.
  8. Interesting thread... Thinking about replacing my old SBIG 8300 chipped camera and really not sure about the change to CMOS so this all helps. As I already have the setup for LRGB + NB, I am looking to stay with mono though. James, I think the use of cylindrical cameras might be for hyperstar configurations Gordon
  9. With an unlimited budget, you can keep on going forever - my point was the 70 would be more than adequate for the VX12, even for long exposure imaging... There is plenty of growing room with the 70 and it is light enough to be portable. The 120 is getting big and heavy. Removing the price constraint would see us all owning observatory class mounts "just in case". (you with the DDM85 and my ME2 being good examples) Aperture fever for mounts perhaps.. At the end of the day, it is the budget of the OP that will decide.. Gordon.
  10. Another happy VX12 owner here... Successfully ran the scope on an NEQ6 for many years, with the belt drive mod fitted after a few years. But mine was in a dome so wind not a problem and also used an OAG to manage drift. The main drive cogs in the NEQ6 are only 90mm in diameter - the CEM70 is around 150mm so giving a whole lot more suppport than that from the NEQ6. They are also engaged with full contact throughout the axis rotation, unlike the NEQ6. And has a belt drive as standard too. I am also looking at a replacement for the NEQ6 (actually worn out) and place the CEM70 as the best option for me. For an eternity, I procrastinated over the CEM60 until it went out of production. No concerns about capability, just too much else to do. For the VX12, I would say the CEM120 was overkill but in terms of cost per kg of payload, is better value. Where you have windbreaks, I am not sure there would be a big advantage with the 120, certainly compared to having a nice guide system... Good luck with your choice. Gordon.
  11. +1 for a used HEQ5 or used iOptron CEM25p. Good luck.
  12. I noticed the bigger CEM60 has a new stablemate in the CEM70... Built in iPolar and a higher payload. When I saw the 25 was unavailable, I guessed the 60 would not be long for this world. Today I noticed the 60 is marked as unobtainable on the FLO site too. The price difference between the 60 and 70 was not so bad, assuming you want the iPolar. But the 25 has no obvious replacement. The CEM 40 is twice the price so the only obvious iOptron choice for a £700 mount is the SW HEQ5. I think they have made a hole in their range... Gordon.
  13. Hi Vin, Here is a thought... Make a list of all the things you do for your better half. Include everything you have compromised on or where she has insisted on something. (I am sure there will be a list) Then explain how it is not a good idea to compromise on the siting and design of the pier and trying to make it do other things. Explain how you are only looking for a small corner and it could be painted any colour she likes, but please don't mess up a design just because... Promise her a new pair of shoes or handbag, or maybe that potted plant she had her eye on... Good luck. Gordon.
  14. Deciding on what domes to get, I also considered the half height dome from Pulsar. I had drawn up plans to build a wooden structure a couple of metres high out of wood and then use the half height dome on top. (I also considered mounting the full height dome on a lower structure...) My biggest concern with a wooden structure was the fact wood moves and grows/shrinks with atmospheric conditions and especially for the half height (and the Scopedome for that matter) was the potential for twisting on the base where the dome was secured to a moving structure. Anyway, the Pulsar website does include some basic drawings and shows there is a flange face on the bottom of the short wall. This would get you half way to making it water tight, with a run of adhesive flashing tape on top might be enough. HTH. Gordon. https://www.pulsarastro.com/ekmps/shops/b585dc/resources/Other/27shortheightdr.pdf
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.