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Likwid

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About Likwid

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    Nebula

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    USA
  1. All I can say is wow! I manually did a PA today and I have EQMod and Cartes du Ciel controlling my mount now! I thought that getting on ground and doing everything manually, trying to find a star with my finderscope at awkward angles (Sometimes painful) was fun. I didn't know what I was missing! I used to struggle to find stars that my stupid hand controller thought were ok to align to, now I can align to anything! Muahahahaha! This is such a time saver, it is unbelievable. Now I have to figure out AstroTortilla to get platesolving settled, but doing the alignment manually through Cartes du ciel isn't bad at all. Also, I just took a unbelievable (to me) 10 minute exposure of M13. I can't wait to push this mount to the limit! Thank you all so much for your help and I am sure this is just the beginning of all my questions lol. What a hobby!
  2. I completely agree with that! I was able to get consistent 7 minute exposures last night until some unexpected clouds ruined my night. I am really happy with how the mount is performing now. I had to go in before I was able to start working with EQMOD, so that is the next step now that I know my mount is functioning properly. Woohoo!
  3. So I am currently in my backyard and I am still having issues. PHD1 had the same problem after enabling DEC so I installed PHD2 and built a dark library. When PHD2 was doing the initial calibration, it said that it detected little south movement ad to check the mechanics of my mount. I moved to 2 second exposures on PHD2 also. I just did a 120 second exposure and it looked great, so I moved to 240 and it was perfect! The new graphs don't look very good so far, and it is information overload right now lol. I am going to see how far I can push my exposures and then I am going to get EQMOD all set up and go from there. Thanks again everyone for all the help!
  4. Oh, perfect! I followed him on YouTube. Hopefully the videos will make the learning curve easier. Thanks!
  5. That actually makes a lot of sense now that I think about it. I'll definitely start using longer exposures with guiding. I also spent a large chunk of my day reading about platesolving and alignment in EQMOD and it doesn't really seem as bad as I thought it would be. I think next session I am going to start with my normal workflow just to make sure that my guiding issue is fixed and then I'll take the plunge and start figuring out EQMOD. I guess I have a bad case of "I don't know what I don't know". I'll just have to keep posting and learning! Thank you again everyone!
  6. Sorry, I had poor wording in my first post. I am using an Orion Sirius. I was trying to say that because my first mount was a Star Adventurer, I picked up habits like making sure my mount is perfectly level when I know I don't need to do that with the Orion Sirius. I also didn't even know about PHD2, I am going to give that a shot as well. Thanks!
  7. So I just set everything up quick in my garage to check PHD Guiding and sure enough, DEC guiding was off. I have no idea how that changed. I feel like an idiot, but I would have never thought to check that! Laurin Dave: I guess that was bad wording. I am using an Orion Sirius, but one of the habits that I got from using my Star Adventurer previously was always making sure my mount is level and getting my alignment spot on. Freddie: I always level my mount even though I know I don't need to. I am using the Hand Controller currently for everything. I built a cable for EQMOD, but I am waiting to add that into the mix until I get more comfortable with everything else. The hand controller tells me where Polaris need to be, I double check it with an app that I have on my phone and make sure that it is dead center in the circle after my mount is perfectly level. I never take shortcuts with my polar alignment. I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing Cjdawson & Anthonyexmouth: That is exactly the opposite of how my brain was comprehending autoguiding. I figured if I had longer exposures, the mount would be going longer without correcting and the guiding wouldn't be as good. I set it to 1 second so it could update the view and correct sooner. Now that I think about it though, if I am able to take like 60-90 second exposures unguided, then 2 seconds won't make a huge difference. Thank you again everyone, hopefully all I needed to change was the DEC guiding. I will never know how that even changed, very odd. I did learn a lot of other things to look for, so hopefully that will make things much smoother in the future. Thank you all again. I don't post very often but when I do, I always get a lot of support. It makes the process of trying to wrap my head around this incredibly complicated hobby much less painful.
  8. Oh wow, thank you everyone for the quick answers! I will definitely try new cables and look at my settings. It never even occurred to me that I could be trying to guide on a hot pixel, so I will definitely make use of the darks. There are so many things that can go wrong and everything is so complicated that I don't even know where to start troubleshooting after the basics. It looks like it will be about a week or so until the next night of clear skies, so I have plenty to do until then. Thank you all again, it is much appreciated!
  9. Hello, I am getting very frustrated with my setup and I am completely lost. So here is my rig: Rebel T3i Modded on an Orion ED80 for imaging, ZWO ASI120MM on an Orion ST80 for Autoguiding, all on an Orion Siruis Mount. My rig weight is about 15 lbs, which is half the max payload of the Orion Sirius. I spent a lot of time balancing and calibrating everything and I have not had any problems until about 2 weeks ago. I splurged and bought an Astronomik Ha 12mm Clip-In filter for my T3i. I have had no problems getting 5 minute frames consistently, so I figured it was time to upgrade a little bit. That night, something changed and I could not get more than 60 seconds out of anything. I gave up and figured it was some random issue. The next clear night, I had the same thing happen. I realized that my guide scope might be slightly out of focus, so I got my Bahtinov mask out and made sure it was dead on. I pushed my rig and got a 7 minute exposure that night, it was great. By the time I had finished screwing around with everything, it was time to go in. Fast forward to tonight, I thought I had everything figured out. I got the bahtinov mask on both my guide scope and imaging scope, everything was perfectly in focus and I tried a 60 second test exposure. Now, I started out with a Star Adventurer so I am really finicky about my alignment. I always level my mount, assemble it and do a 2 star alignment. Tonight, my 60 second exposure looked like I had a 600mm lens on a normal tripod, it was horrible. After I got all my gear inside, I thought it could be a balance issue, so I rebalanced everything. I went back out, realigned, and same thing. I am at a complete loss and would appreciate any help. My next step is probably going to be completely disassembling my mount and giving everything a good cleaning and lube, to make sure no gears or anything are damaged. The odd thing is that my PHD graph looks great, but the software almost loses sight of my target star. If you look at my screenshot, the square and centered star are not on the crosshair. You can see my horrible 120 second exposure of M13 in the background. Help! Thank you in advance!
  10. Great, thank you! I have actually considered going back to my Rebel XS because the T3i noise is unreal sometimes. Back when I was just using a Star Adventurer, I was getting a lot of subs out of necessity. Now I have started using longer exposures and less subs. I'll have to break that habit, or just focus on one specific target for longer than a night or two. It is hard to do when there is a whole sky to explore
  11. Awesome, that actually makes a lot of sense. I was a little underwhelmed at the amount of nebulosity in the Ha pic, so I figured I was a little underexposed. I just didn't realize it would have that effect on the images. Thank you both for your time!
  12. Hello, I just bought an Ha Clip Filter and I am having some odd issues with it. Other than the standard focusing issues, I am getting images with an insane amount of noise. I have only tried this in my modified Rebel T3i, but I have an old modified Rebel XS I am going to test it with as well on the next clear night, in case this is a camera issue. I have tried this filter twice now and it seems like both times I attached this filter, everything goes to crap for the night. I am using an Orion ED80 on an Orion Sirius Mount, with an Orion ST80 and ZWO ASI120MM Mono Camera for guiding. My T3i is very finicky and will start go get unbearable noise around 35C+, so I try to keep it under 30C when I can. Both of these frames were taken in similar conditions (30C, 300s Exposures, 400ISO on Ha, 800ISO on RGB), a few days apart on the same rig. Is it just me or are they vastly different in terms of image quality? I had what appeared to be almost perfect guiding conditions in PHD according to the graph for the Ha frames, so I surprised to see little streaks instead of normal stars. I had a total of 30 minutes of integration with Ha and when I stacked them, it was painful to look at. Is there anything I can do to improve this? Thank you!
  13. That's what I needed to know, thank you very much!
  14. Hello, I thought that I had a lot of this figured out, but I just confused myself. 2 years ago, I removed the IR-Cut filter from my Canon DSLR and left the frame blank. To compensate for not having an internal filter, I bought an Astronomik CLS Canon EOS Clip Filter - CLS-EOS so I could get longer exposures in my light-polluted skies. I was reading an article from AstroBackyard a couple days ago about HaRGB images and decided to pull the plug and get Astronomik H-Alpha 12 nm EOS Clip Filter - HA12-EOS. This is where I start getting confused. I read originally that I needed an IR-Cut filter integrated into whatever light pollution filter I got, since I removed my internal filter. This is why I got the CLS filter instead of the CLS CCD after a lot of research. My H-Alpha filter just showed up today and the packaging says that it is actually a CCD filter, which from what I understand does not include an IR Cut Filter. There was no mention of this on the website, so I wanted to get a good answer before I broke the seal on this packaging. From what I read, if I don't have an IR Cut filter, stars will look bloated and my images will be off. Do I return this filter because my images will look off, or should I be ok to use it? Thank you in advance!
  15. I think I have mostly everything working. The EQMod DLL issue is fixed now. I was trying to get Stellarium working without having EQMod connected and talking to the mount. I now realize that ASCOM and EQMod basically take the place of the hand controller and if they are not running, nothing will communicate. Once I got the settings right in EQMod, the motors fired right up. Thanks for the help!
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