david_taurus83

It will get condensation on it so you will need to put some sort of heater under the cover with it. Some people use pet heating pads as an example. I use a small dew strap turned inside out (heated side facing out) and wrapped around the dec axis of my AZEQ6 and controlled by a smart dew heater. Keeps the mount and scope dry 24/7. As mentioned above, some screws etc will rust. The locking screws on the counterweights for example.

So 2" filters at a minimum. An expensive upgrade for the sake of an integrated guide cam. And how sensitive will it be if you swung a 3nm filter in front of it with a 2 or 3 second guide exposure? Love the idea but perhaps ideal only for OSC?

CFA (Colour Filter Array) is set to NO so it thinks they are mono. You need to manually set DSS to debayer.

As above, you might need to tell DSS the Bayer pattern for the camera, RGGB. Also, you really don't need to use darks with this camera, as long as you are dithering to remove hot pixels. I just use a master bias and dither for both my 533MM and 2600MC.

You should try just that and repair the installation. If you go to add or remove program menu, NINA should give the option to modify as well as uninstall. Click modify and try repair when the wizard pops up. If it still gives you issues, uninstall it and download a new install file from the NINA website. It should keep your profile settings even if you uninstall but as a backup, you can copy and paste your profile settings to somewhere safe on your drive before you uninstall. They are found at the path like in the screenshot below.

Don't be fooled by the guiding numbers in ASIAir app as they are very optimistic.. Do the jumps happen at frequent intervals? Have you set to dither after a set number of frames? It could be the next image in the sequence has started before the mount has had time to recover from the dither. A large amount of backlash would have the effect of the mount not moving despite guide pulses so the size of the pulse increases and increases and you suddenly get a large movement which can cause it to jump and overshoot.

First galaxy with my galaxy scope! Unfortunately I had some sort of issue with flats as they caused the strange dark patch on the right so I had to stack without and try and process out the vignetting! Thankfully there are no dust bunnies so was easy enough using GraXpert. I always found M81 and M82 difficult to process as the galaxy cores are so bright, if push the stretch too much it just washes out the outer details. Had to take a more subdued effort with this. 180 x 60s Lum, 60 x 60s RGB, 20 x 180s Ha (R+Ha blended 50/50) Weird dark patch on the L stack with flats applied Final image processed in Pixinsight

This. Sharpcap can detect your laptops webcam so you must have accidentally connected to this instead.

There is another app to control the AM5 called ASIMount, though I have not used it yet. It looks like it's for using the mount for observing?

Ah OK, thanks. I thought it would need an Internet connection to download something.

I suppose I should try 2.1 first. If I have 2.1 on my phone, does the Air itself need to be updated. Does it need to be connected in station mode if so?

To be honest, I've only ever used 2.0.10.46 and it works fine. I've not tried 2.1 yet but I've seen complaints. My phone has upgraded to 2.1 so how do you go about rolling back a revision?

Not necessarily, that looks like typical dust/debris on a DSLR light frame. DSLR are harder to keep clean and calibrate due to the shutter movement moving the dust around. I have had similar dust motes move around mid session on my 6D which renders flat frames useless unless you've took some before starting and afterwards as well.

I have a permanent setup as well under a TG cover. After the first night the scope and mount were covered in condensation so now I leave a small dew strap wrapped loosely around the Dec axis under the scope dovetail with the warm side facing out. Its left on low to medium power 24/7 and after 18 months I haven't had any more issues with condensation under the cover.

Definitely got enough power? No display at all on the handset?

I have both ASI533MM and ASI2600MC. I don't bother with darks anymore, just cool the camera and take a set of bias frames. There's hardly any dark current with them it's not worth taking darks. Dithering is a must though to remove hot pixels. You'll always get differing opinions on this so see what works for you.

Sorry if I'm misinterpreting the problem but why does the secondary need to be offset and not directly beneath the focuser?

NINA isn't exactly setup for planetary work and has limited camera controls. It's designed to setup a deep sky imaging plan and press play. Sharpcap gives you much finer controls of the camera settings. You could use NINA to connect to your guide camera and mount for platesolving and centring and Sharpcap for capture on your main camera.

As much as I liked Stellarmate and Kstars and really wanting it to work, I eventually bought an ASIAir mini. Just works and is great for a mobile setup. Still not as good as a Windows based system though so I would also suggest a mini PC. That brings its own headaches as well as will need a 12v supply and you will need to remote desktop or VNC into it to manage.

My Mini does this after a flip. It looks like it just stops imaging but it's just a glitch with the preview. If you exit back to the front menu and reconnect to the device you should find that it has continued imaging as planned.

The 460 has 1 tablet and a mesh barrier behind it to prevent ingress of dirt and dust while changing it. If you take some bias frames now what is the lowest reported ADU value? At -10°C my old 460 had a minimum bias ADU of 163, in other words the offset value. Should never be 0.

I should add that when I had my GT71 and Flat6AII I never got perfect corners with either 600D or 1600MM. I was forever chasing it and changing back spacing. It's a road to madness!

It's correct. If you undo the knurled ring and wind it back to the front section you would see that the rear section is on around 9mm on the scale.

No it's the right way. The M63 end goes to the scope with the M48 end on camera side.

How much drawtube have you left when in focus? I had the older GT71 and Flat 6II and I'm sure I had about 30mm of drawtube available. The difference with my scope was I didn't have the rotator fitted like you have.