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Everything posted by david_taurus83

  1. What camera are you considering for mono? Are you using a coma corrector? If so, then you'll still need to space the camera back 55mm if that's the case, and the drawtube will come into focus in the same place.
  2. I could take darks on my old WO GT71 during the day. Never an issue. Now though, with my Altair Starwave scopes, the one time I tried it looked like there was light leak getting under the dew shield. It's appeared to get worse when I shined a torch on the shield.
  3. Yes it's SkySafari but you can use Stellarium or Carte du Ciel. So if you want to frame like I showed above with top and bottom of the sensor aligned with 44° and 45° then yes, turn the sensor on its side!
  4. If your using a refractor then if your camera is 'upright' in the home position, then the top and bottom will be parallel with the right ascension grid lines. And if you rotate the camera 90° so it's on its 'side' then the top and bottom of the sensor will be parallel with the declination grid lines. Camera upright with RA lines top to bottom Camera on its side with declination lines left to right Don't ask me how it works with a Newt!
  5. I've not seen a CEM70 in the flesh but I did have an AZEQ6 and I would have lumped them together in the same weight class? Not sure you'll see the performance increase your looking for? I have the CEM25 and only have 6kg on it and balance is really critical. If its slightly out in Dec and RA it guides all wonky but get the balance just right and its great. I wouldn't like to try and balance a 250P on a CEM mount! The 120 might be better suited though.
  6. Ah sorry, I had gotten 1.25" in my head.
  7. If you can stretch to £179 I can recommend the Astronomik OIII 6nm. No halos when I tested on a bright star. (Despite my recent issues with halos and reflections which I suspect is my flattener, but that's another thread)
  8. Its the reducer. The last piece of glass to check. I just stuck a nosepiece on the camera tonight and into the back of the scope. No glass or filters between objective and camera. No halos or reflections. Oddly enough, apart from 2 corners I appear to have better stars across the field at the scopes native F7.
  9. This is a 300s sub I took of M45 last November. If anything is going to show halos, it'd going to be this, right? Looks good to me. That's with the IDAS D2 on front of the flattener and through the Lum filter in the wheel. No visible issues. So last night I done some sanity checks. Took another series of subs on the Beehive, this time with no filter at all. No IDAS D2 and Lum filter removed from the wheel. Here's the calibrated stack. Halos still present and a new one left of sensor. So I can safely rule out the IDAS D2 and Astronomik filt
  10. I done some testing the other evening on M44. I removed the LP filter from the flattener for this. Took half an hour on each filter, 60s subs on L and 90s subs on RGB. Each filter showed some halo on the brighter star on the right. M44 LRGB L filter Red filter Green filter Blue filter There's a strange artifact on the brightest culprits on all filters. It's on the centre star and right one with halo in LRG and on B its more so on the right one, despite the star to the left looking brighter with no is
  11. Hi Olly Yes, have an autofocuser set to focus if temp changes by 1°C or star HFR changes by 10%! The focuser is R&P and the AF holds it solid. I added another dew strap the other night, cleaned the objective and checked the sensor window on the Atik after a while of running the cooler. Couldn't see anything obvious..
  12. Do you have the correct focal length selected in APT?
  13. A bit odd. I know with a DSLR you can use flats with a different ISO value to the lights so I wonder why DSS is asking that? You haven't done what I did the once and collect an entire library of darks only to find out later that they saved to png format?!?
  14. I'm stumped as well! The other filters were shot on different nights and the blue shows a similar increase but not as obvious unless you look for it. I've looked at some early shots on the Pleiades when I first got the camera and filters and they don't show any obvious halos. I just don't get why that one star shows it so obviously buy the ones on the left don't as they are equally as bright at mag 7. Could it be the horrendous tilt I've got?
  15. You can use the same darks for both sets of lights as long as all 3 are the same exposure length and ISO. Assuming you didn't move the camera between switching from Horsehead to Leo you can also use the same set of flats.
  16. Yes, here's a timeline. 10pm 11pm 12am 1am And the last sub at 1.45am
  17. What'ds going on with the bright star below M51 in my Luminance subs? There appears to be a gradual bloat or halo creeping in? The earlier subs from 10pm don't have it but as M51 gets near the zenith after 1am that star seems to start glowing a bright halo? It doesn't appear to affect the brighter stars on the left? I've looked at my binned RGB data and it's not as bright but it does start to creep in later in the night again on the blue. Is it dew on the scope though I run a dew heater 100% all the time? Atmospheric conditions? (Star shapes are poor as I've incorrectly set up my tilt adapter
  18. Wow! Great image and I think this is the first picture I've noticed was taken with a Mak-Newt! Why don't more of us use this scope? It's definitely piqued my interest!
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