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About Altair8389

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  1. Hi all, I have had problems focusing using a 0.5x focal reducer on the ASI120mm-S. This is mainly for solar imaging H-alpha with a Quark. I have the usual 1.25 inch 0.5x focuser like Svbony or Datyson from ebay. I cannot find focus if you put the reducer on the end of a standard 1.25inch camera nose piece which is about 29mm long. I found this article from over 1 year ago, and wondered if this was the best solution? The item is on 365 astronomy. 365Astronomy 0.5x Focal Reducer with C-mount for Video Astronomy Has anyone used this for the ASI120mm-S ? I did buy
  2. Hi SGL, I just managed to get my 1st ever motor focuser ! It is the Skywatcher autofocuser (from Rothervalleyoptics). I wonder if it is possible to configure it so the focuser is controlled by a computer e.g. EQMOD or APT (astrophotographer tool ); anyone succeeded or is it not possible ? Thanks. Magnus
  3. Lovely images Nigella. May I ask, do you use single stack arrangement for imaging of proms, or do you keep the Double stack setup for all imaging ? I would really like to get a Lunt 60 double stack h-alpha solar scope like yours, but I know its quite expensive. Do you need a barlow or focal reducer to get a full disc. How many images do you need for a full disc ?
  4. Hi all, I am thinking of adding to my solar equipment by getting a second hand Lunt LS50THa with B400, for about 700 pounds in UK. Is this a fair price. It is about 4 to 5 years old. I wonder if it is reasonable easy to upgrade the focuser to a rack and pinion so I can maybe add a motorised focusing system to it. Any one who has done this modification or knows about it, please advise. Many thanks. Magnus London
  5. Hello Marty, How are you ? Thanks very much again. I will take a close look at this thread which I had not seen before. I will study your tutorial again on processing. I have ordered a Skywatcher evostar 90mm scope at 900mm focal length (F10), and will start setting it up for straight through imaging with a Quark chromosphere filter. I have yet to decide on the camera yet, will need to buy one. Thanks for your files which I will also work on later next week ! Magnus.
  6. Good work ! I like it. Despite only a few exposures, you did quite well. I suppose the low altitude and clouds did not help....In a dark sky site, the images would be incredible I think.
  7. Hi, what target are you looking to image ? I think your exposure length depends on this. Also what type of sky darkness are you in, and what about neighbours security lights, house lights (bedrooms) and what about street lights ? Sharpcap has an exposure calculator to tell you the optimal exposure depending on your location. You can always start using lower exposure values to get an idea if your camera setup is ok, and do guiding at another time. Autoguiding is for longer exposures really, so may not be really necessary unless you are in a dark sky site and can do 20 + minute exposures of
  8. Thanks, thats helpful to know. I must have made numerous trips from my house to the garden to make a single AP session work ! Its good exercise I suppose.
  9. I can see the Elephant trunk ! Good attempt. I think you may need to just find a bright star with a Bahtimov mask...centre the spikes. Then move to your target, being careful not to move the polar alignment out...You may have to check polar alignment again after you move to your target. So focus your camera with the H-alpha filter on a bright star with a Bahtimov mask, and then tape the focus ring with a tape. Then move to your target, re-check polar alignment and go again on your target. Have you thought about using Astrophotography tool ? I think you can do plate solving in that and th
  10. Thats not bad. I am waiting for a Canon 100D modification to H-alpha mod from JTW Astronomy. Do you use the red channel for H-alpha data exclusively. I think with only .jpgs, you will need to retake the exposures. Did you use a hydrogen-alpha filter to get more H-alpha data for the red nebula? Maybe you can use that data (e.g. with longer exposures) and combine that with the basic star background which needs much lower exposures to avoid saturation of the stars. Getting good colour balance would be important. I think a telescope may be better. Did you take flats. The problem wit
  11. Of course, you take the telescopes and maybe cables out. I presume you only keep the tripod and mount attached and counterweights I suppose.
  12. I see, interesting. I was rather afraid to leave it out in heavy rain and high winds... What type of cover is it and how do you make sure it will not blow away or the telescopes to the ground ?? I would really like to know. Maybe some pictures of your cover and setup would be helpful ?
  13. Hi, that battery life seems too short. I can assure you that the extra weight of the battery pack and 2 batteries is making your balance much harder. My solution is not difficult to find. Maybe you need a better power solution. Anyway, good luck on your 2 battery solution.
  14. Thanks, this is very helpful. Unless I have a dedicated observatory, I will have to dismantle my setup largely, much like I am doing now. Unless you are blessed with an enormous empty garage, or massive house, its difficult not to dismantle. II agree its not safe or possible to move heavy loads about, in case of falling over or damaging your back !
  15. Yes, you can use a small scope as a guidescope. Usually, unless you have an enormous mount costing thousands, you need a small light weight guidescope as there are mechanical and optical reasons for this. A guidescope usually needs a small focal length than typical small telescopes. Looking at your interests, deep sky astrophotography is one way to go. Backyardastro is a good channel, but you need or be willing to spend ££££ to copy his setups. If you want inspiration, the Astronomy Photographer of the Year held at the Greenwich Nautical museum yearly is helpful. Milky Way nightscap
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