david_taurus83

I suppose I should try 2.1 first. If I have 2.1 on my phone, does the Air itself need to be updated. Does it need to be connected in station mode if so?

To be honest, I've only ever used 2.0.10.46 and it works fine. I've not tried 2.1 yet but I've seen complaints. My phone has upgraded to 2.1 so how do you go about rolling back a revision?

Not necessarily, that looks like typical dust/debris on a DSLR light frame. DSLR are harder to keep clean and calibrate due to the shutter movement moving the dust around. I have had similar dust motes move around mid session on my 6D which renders flat frames useless unless you've took some before starting and afterwards as well.

I have a permanent setup as well under a TG cover. After the first night the scope and mount were covered in condensation so now I leave a small dew strap wrapped loosely around the Dec axis under the scope dovetail with the warm side facing out. Its left on low to medium power 24/7 and after 18 months I haven't had any more issues with condensation under the cover.

Definitely got enough power? No display at all on the handset?

I have both ASI533MM and ASI2600MC. I don't bother with darks anymore, just cool the camera and take a set of bias frames. There's hardly any dark current with them it's not worth taking darks. Dithering is a must though to remove hot pixels. You'll always get differing opinions on this so see what works for you.

Sorry if I'm misinterpreting the problem but why does the secondary need to be offset and not directly beneath the focuser?

NINA isn't exactly setup for planetary work and has limited camera controls. It's designed to setup a deep sky imaging plan and press play. Sharpcap gives you much finer controls of the camera settings. You could use NINA to connect to your guide camera and mount for platesolving and centring and Sharpcap for capture on your main camera.

As much as I liked Stellarmate and Kstars and really wanting it to work, I eventually bought an ASIAir mini. Just works and is great for a mobile setup. Still not as good as a Windows based system though so I would also suggest a mini PC. That brings its own headaches as well as will need a 12v supply and you will need to remote desktop or VNC into it to manage.

My Mini does this after a flip. It looks like it just stops imaging but it's just a glitch with the preview. If you exit back to the front menu and reconnect to the device you should find that it has continued imaging as planned.

The 460 has 1 tablet and a mesh barrier behind it to prevent ingress of dirt and dust while changing it. If you take some bias frames now what is the lowest reported ADU value? At -10°C my old 460 had a minimum bias ADU of 163, in other words the offset value. Should never be 0.

I should add that when I had my GT71 and Flat6AII I never got perfect corners with either 600D or 1600MM. I was forever chasing it and changing back spacing. It's a road to madness!

It's correct. If you undo the knurled ring and wind it back to the front section you would see that the rear section is on around 9mm on the scale.

No it's the right way. The M63 end goes to the scope with the M48 end on camera side.

How much drawtube have you left when in focus? I had the older GT71 and Flat 6II and I'm sure I had about 30mm of drawtube available. The difference with my scope was I didn't have the rotator fitted like you have.

^^^This. If you can point at a tree a half a mile away or so then you should find that focus is pretty much spot on at night then. You won't be able to use PHD as it will be too bright. Use Sharpcap and a low exposure.

That reducer should be OK with f6 to f7 scopes. What size filters are you using? 36mm?

1.7 metres in length? Almost 6 foot? Surely not!

A few unexpected clear hours on Monday so decided to give this a go while waiting for the galaxies to get higher. 25 x 300s Ha 25 x 300s OIII 18 x 300s SII SHO and HOO versions. Approx 25% crop around the edges.

What equipment will you be using?

Are you just using a tripod? Not a tracking mount?

How long were the exposures?

I have both AZEQ6 and AM5. The AM5 would not be a good mount for an Esprit 120. I wouldn't put much faith in its guided performance beyond 500mm but for a small compact setup it is excellent though expensive. The AZEQ6 is my second one. I sold the first a few years ago in a mad fit of downsize fever, regretted it and bought another when we moved house. Works great with my Esprit 100 and now have a 200P on it. I would say that 1000mm focal length is probably on the limit of its capabilities but overall, a solid performer.

Sticking with Orion this week, was awarded a few hours clear sky last night despite the forecast for cloud and fog. Managed to nab 3 hours on this before the moon got too high as well though the nebula is fairly bright itself anyway. Also a good opportunity to get some more testing on the 200P. Have learned from last night that flats are needed each night and PHD calibration is worth redoing after a meridian flip! So far, I haven't touched collimation since it went on the mount! First image from the rejuvenated 200P 45 x 60s each LRGB binned 2x2

Top one is my favourite. Very nice!