david_taurus83

They are dimmable whereas the old ones aren't. Did you see them change out the control panel on the pole?

Are those current draws something you have measured or just taking the figures from manufacturer specs? I'd be very surprised if you were drawing 12 amps.

I've had a few cameras and mounts since I started this hobby and I've never seen my power usage exceed 3amps. My current setup usually sits at just over 2 amps when camera cooler is on, mount running, dew straps etc. I do use a linear Nevada PSU with 13.8v to the pier at idle and with everything running is usually around 13.0v. My suspicion is that a lot of people use 12v AC to DC power bricks and when they encounter issues they are suffering voltage drop due to thin cables between devices, not exceeding the rated current for the power brick. If you can get 13.8v at your mount then I think your 6A supply will be just fine.

If any of it is steel then you risk the magnet just popping off the wire and attaching to the inside of the tube or attaches itself the part the swarf is resting on!

Essential though if you have the previous generation CMOS like 183, 294 and 1600 range of sensors. I don't use darks on my 6D though it's probably the best Canon DSLR for AP. Arguably don't need darks either for the new Sony IMX sensors.

Didn't think I had enough data for this but counted up all the subs and turns out I had over 5 hours each of narrowband data, so here it is. First image with the new Astrodon 5nm filters. Captured over 4 nights from September to October, this is presented in SHO format along with SHO stars. 63 x 300s SII 68 x 300s Ha 63 x 300s OIII Just over 16 hours total integration. Also visible just above the Tulip is an arc of matter being displaced by the relativistic jet from the Cyg X-1 black hole. Close up:

Thats a great close up view!

Thank you! I just had a look back through my images and noticed it's been nearly 2 years, Christmas Eve 2020, since the Canon was used in anger! Yes, I do like the star colours in this one. I used 3 different stretches in Pixinsight for this. A normal Histogram Stretch brings out the galaxy but blows out the stars. ArcSin stretch is great for keeping colour in the stars but mutes the galaxy. Masked stretch is similar to ArcSin and keeps stars from blowing out but makes the centre of the galaxy look like a star. I used Pixelmath to combine all 3, I think 0.4 HT + 0.4 ArcSin + 0.2 MS or something like that. I experimented basically and it worked out well!

I think this is the first image I've took with my Canon 6D in well over a year. It might not compete with the excellent new Sony IMX sensors but there's life in the old girl yet! There's a little bit of a gradient going on in the background that DBE cant remove but alas, LP and a colour camera. I'm still pleased with how its come out. 150 x 180s at ISO1600 Optolong L-Pro clip filter

You can never be too careful with checking clamps and hand screws etc. I was attempting a dual rig a few years ago but on the cheap so didn't have one of those fancy adjustable clamps that allow for XY axis adjustment. I was using thin plastic shims between the scope dovetail and mount clamp. Had a sudden cold feeling rush up my back as I heard a horrible metallic sliding noise as I was walking up the garden from the mount. The scope I was adjusting had slid all the way down the clamp and only caught at the very end due to a protruding bolt head under the dovetail. Never again! Sorry to hear of your misfortune and hope your insurance gets settles quickly so you can get another!

According to Google slug slime is over 90% water so it can't be that bad. I doubt it's as bad as Xenomorph blood!

I have to admit, they have twisted my arm a little with this. I have a Redcat on an AZGTI with my 6D that doesn't get used as much as it should. With the luxury of having my main setup on a permanent pier I have gotten lazy with regards to setting up from scratch the Redcat. That paired with an old laptop that struggles to manage it all puts me off the effort in. Despite me being a critic of the early ASIAir, it seems to have come a long way with regards to features. I've ordered one from ZWO. Hopefully have it by Christmas 2023 🙂

I'd blank out the street name on that picture as it's an open forum.

??? Already?

Have you tried the rubber sole technique? Place the filter/adapter between a pair of shoes/trainers/sneakers with soft soles, press together and twist?

Have you actually damaged it or you can't get the filter off so looking for a replacement?

What lens? Kit lens? Prime lens? The quality varies a lot! I had a couple of expensive Canon lenses that were great for what they were intended, terrestrial photography, but hopeless for astrophotography if you judged their performance by star shape.

I didn't get to use my Samyang much when I had it but got a couple of nice shots. M45 was only 50 minutes of 60s subs I believe from a pretty bad light polluted bortle 6. Was taken on an iOptron star tracker mount. Heart and Soul, again from same location but on a bigger mount with guiding. Heres the difference between 2 or 3 hours worth of 5 minute subs and 5 hours worth. At a bortle 3 location, you should be able to get more detail and dark dusty stuff. All taken with an Optolong L pro clip filter in my 6D, ISO1600.

The only way to determine sensor tilt is on a purpose jig with only the camera on there. If your judging tilt by shape of stars on an image, them you would need to rule out collimation, focuser, flattener spacing etc.

A completely valid point and makes perfect sense, however it still doesn't remove the spikes from guiding without a long settle time and it would mildly bug me that it's not an even capture! I realise I'm trying to fix a problem that isn't there but I do want to put my 6D on there soon so a guidescope is needed anyway. To answer my original question, yes, the Esprit finder can be converted to a guidescope. You need the M51 to C adapter from FLO, the ZWO M42(T2) to C adapter and a helical focuser. I happened to have most of these bits in my astro parts box so only needed to purchase the M51 adapter. The spacer between the guidescope and focuser is optional also. I prefer to have the camera inserted almost fully into the focuser body as opposed to sticking half out.

I can't see how you can machine that out and still use it after. What's the ID of the tube? TS do various adapters to fit different OTA's. I'd be inclined like others to chop the tube and find or create an adapter to suit that. My concern with this approach though would be how much dust is going to end up on the lens from cutting..

What focuser are you trying to fit? 2" not big enough?

Your not using PEC correction in GSS are you? When I tried it it was great for a while but then my mount started doing strange things. Would randomly start drifting off in the wrong direction despite input from PHD. When I switched PEC off it behaved normally so I haven't used it since. Still use GSS though and it's behaved each time with PEC left alone.

This thread is 6 years old and he hasn't logged in since May. If you send him a PM he may get an email notification though.

Is that a dovetail flange for the focuser?