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Everything posted by R26 oldtimer
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LBN 581 Shot in September with a QHY9 mono and Bresser 150 f5 newt, riding on an eq6. 9 hours of Ha & 9 hours of OIII in 600sec subs -15°C. No coma corrector available, filters were 7&8.5 nm baader, full calibration frames (darks, flats, dark flats) Comments welcome, although it looks in need of even more OIII data...
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What equipment has revolutionised your observing?
R26 oldtimer replied to RobertI's topic in Observing - Discussion
Really surprised not mentioned before, the GOTO mount. -
If there are reports of bad connection with the unit and the handcontroller when motors are not connected, then this will definitely be happening with the wifi also.
- 100 replies
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- wifi alternative
- synscan
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Are you trying to connect to a smartphone or a PC running synscan app? I have found in several occasions connection problems deriving from the smartphones power & network management. In a previous Huawei device, I had to turn off cellular data in order to connect without hickups. Also if there are many wireless networks present you may find that your smartphone temporarily tries to connect to another network thus dropping the connection. Best to test it on a PC running synscan app, just to make sure.
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16 bit vs 32 bit processing
R26 oldtimer replied to jjosefsen's topic in Imaging - Image Processing, Help and Techniques
Sorry, wrong post...😳 -
Hello, first of all you have powered your wifi board with 3.3 volts. I am not sure if there are different versions of this board, but mine had to be powered with 5 volts (see original post), while 3.3v is the board's & mount's TTL voltage of the Rx & Tx signals. So this could be your problem. But before you change that make sure you have the correct settings for wireless connection on the synscan app "connection settings" tab. It looks like the app itself had some U.I. changes since my original post. This is what it looked like then and this is what it looks like now Make sure you're with "network" tab, disable auto detect (find devices) and enter 192.168.4.1 in fixed IP, like that:
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- wifi alternative
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Very nice!!
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Still use mine for visual with a SW120ed. Great mounts, simple mechanics.
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With the recent advances in CMOS technology and the subsequent CCD selling spree, I found myself owning an sxv-h9 mono and a couple of months later a mono qhy9. Of course, the qhy camera is better and it will be my main imaging device but what I really want to know is, if there is any point in keeping the sxv-h9? Is there any kind of target which would be better imaged with the smaller but more sensitive sxv? My focal lengths vary from 200mm to 900mm
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Taken as a test of a new to me Qhy 9 mono. Bresser 150s Newtonian, SW eq6. 3 hours OIII & 5 hours Ha of 600sec subs The single subs from this old KAF8300 were pretty bad, but once calibrated and stacked.... 🤩
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Here my take on the Iris nebula earlier this summer. 4.5 hours of total integration time on a poorly collimated bresser 750s newt. Heavily cropped as the stars of this image set me on my first collimation journey. Hope you like it.
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- iris nebula
- nikon
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APM LZOS 130 f6 - first light
R26 oldtimer replied to Stu's topic in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Congrats Stu! That's a beautiful scope! -
SGL Perseid Challenge 2021
R26 oldtimer replied to MartinB's topic in SGL Challenges and Competitions
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I'm surprised no one commented on that one. Do they really have a logo with a $ eq mount? Well, certainly top notch equipment justifying the price, but hey, Takahashi, you don't have to rub it in...🤣
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A very very long read, but also very very interesting one, ending with a fix which I'll check out with my data. Thanks a lot! 😊
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It is very easy, apart from the live view. It can't do exposure simulation for more than the video frame rate (1/30) , so have to bump up the iso to find stars. Also live view mag does x2 without problems but if you zoom in further there is some latency. So apart the overall use of live view for focus, it was very easy to adapt from canon. That's 2 hours from bortle 5, with 6"newtonian, at 25 °C, where canons are pretty noisy at higher temperatures, but of course it's colder in the UK.
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I've tried with a 500D, 600D and a 700D. The 600 and 700 are the same (astrophotography concerned) and just a bit better than the 500. Lately I've acquired a nikon D5300 which produces much better data, despite the terrible live view. Also works fine with APT without additions cables. P.s. my focal lengths go from 480 to 750 mm
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I'm sure this would be the first time that anyone would be glad imaging the night away with the cap on...
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I wouldn't say that is useless, but it is really not worth trying with this filter. You should really modify your camera because right now the internal filter blocks almost 75-80% of the Ha emmision. Remember that this filter will give you a narrowband HOO image, so if you lose all this Ha signal from the ir filter, in practice all you get is OIII. If you're after a light pollution filter with an unmodified camera, then a light pollution filter like the l-pro will suit you best.
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I assume that you have an osc camera. If that's the case then the image you get is effectively an HOO* narrowband image. That means that through that filter your camera records Ha emmision on the red channel/pixels and OIII on the blue and green. If you split the channels, you get an Ha image from the red channel and an OIII from the green and blue. You can also stack the green and blue, to increase the OIII Snr. *actually the l-enhance also allows Hb wavelength along with OIII so the out of the camera image is more of an Ha,OIII+Hb,OIII+Hb
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I've had the same conversation with my father a couple of years ago. He asked me why spend all of this money, time and effort to get an image while you can see many more and far better images on the internet. I replied why would someone like him spend equal amount of time, money and effort to fish while he can buy all the fish he wants. I still remember that happy/guilty grin on his face. P.S. I like fishing too! 🎣