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R26 oldtimer

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About R26 oldtimer

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    Proto Star

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  • Location
    Athens, Greece
  1. It probably is an older model without set point cooling which runs to the max. APT has no way of knowing what the Tec is doing. So feel the casing of the camera after 5-10 minutes, and if it is a bit warm, then the cooling works fine.
  2. You can use a toothpick, those contacts don't seem ultra fragile.
  3. Had a similar neighbor a couple of years ago. I asked really politely to turn off the lights, even invited him for a session, which he rudely declined. Then I just set both of my scopes and cameras facing various windows of his house for a couple of days. When he came complaining, I complained back that since I couldn't stargaze then I would just.... gaze. It's been 3 years and those powerful bulbs haven't tasted electricity since.
  4. I don't think that he says that he is dissatisfied with the scope, just with the extra and seperatly charged "check service". My feel is that since the vendor, whoever that is, decides to offer a full refund, that should be for the product/service in question and not the full order.
  5. Hmmm... That front aperture cap looks like a standard GSO one with a very tight fit. Perhaps a small handle is in order... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-D-Shape-Curved-Furniture-Handle-Cabinet-Cupboard-Door/401790468979?hash=item5d8c940373:g:RbwAAOSwyx1dCk7c
  6. That's correct, in the trifid nebula, only the Ha lobe appears and it will not capture the blue one (reflection). It would make sense for a tri-band if it was to capture three nb signals in the three distinct parts of the spectrum red-green-blue. It's a shame that SII is not in the greens....
  7. I have the optolong l-enhance. First of all let's see what this is all about. These are not light pollution filters. Perhaps not the best narrowband band or with a tight bandpass but they are NB. So what your imaging is not enhanced rgb, it's HOO. Is it pure HOO? Not entirely because your camera's rgb array has not steep cutoff, so some red and blue creeps in to the green and vice versa, but that's a different subject. The bottom line is that you get similar results as you would if you used two different nb filters (Ha & OIII) in two sessions but you get that same data in one session. Go for the L-eXtreme if you can afford it.
  8. Sometimes it's easier to spend money than time... If you have plenty of both then you're truly lucky!
  9. I have the optolong l-enhance and thinking whether should I upgrade to the L-eXtreme. I think that the name of the game is separating the narrowband signals. Since most osc cameras have Rgb arrays, then it comes down to isolate the signal from Ha on the red channel and OIII from the blue/green, or perhaps SII and OIII or sii and Hb. Then as is the case with conventional nb filters, the tightest bandpass wins. I think I'll wait for an L-supermaxHOO with 5nm OIII & Ha bandpass and an L-supermaxSIIHbHb with similar bandpass on SII and Hb.
  10. Yes, it looks more artistic this way, or APT's point craft & ps2 thinks the center of ic1795 lies on its tip. Perhaps a mosaic is in order for this one, but this is another adventure for the future!
  11. I 've recently aquired an sxv-h9 mono camera, to see what's all this fuss about mono. Athough it is an old camera, it has a very succesfull and classic sensor. I can see why!
  12. You could do a lot worst for a first telescope purchase, and not much better ( just better oriented to specific targets or observing conditions). You've got yourself a very decent all-rounder for visual (mostly planetary and smaller & brighter dso's), eeva, and wide field astrophotography with a camera lens or a small ED telescope later on. Enjoy!
  13. That's a clickbait for sure! I came in expecting an ED triplet / lanthanum eating dog because the homepage displayed half the title
  14. The 290 would make a difference compared to the 224, if you are going for mono. If not get the 224 cheaper, and save for a 294. Of course, there is the lodestarx2c which is still a very nice and sensitive option.
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