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geeklee

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Everything posted by geeklee

  1. I like the photo album approach @tomato - is that A4 size? 👍 Sounds perfect for me to look over images in print without having to find wall space (and permission!) I've used my-picture also and got two acrylic prints done (40cmx30cm, 40cmx40cm). I was really happy with these but I would say they benefit from good light to really show off the image. I also got some smaller MIXPIX done from the same place. As mentioned by @Budgie1 I brightened mine a touch following advice on SGL in another thread.
  2. That's come out well @Richie092 Something to keep an eye on is the stars - not sure what process has created the effect (I've seen these with Topaz and other things), but they start to join together and become strange shapes.
  3. The Baader solution is expensive on the face of it, but they seem high quality and very rigid considering the thickness. I got a pack of M48 ones which includes three thickness options. Yep, it's a beast! In hindsight perhaps some tagging on posts would have been helpful so people can search for just "spacing" stuff etc! Good luck, I joined it a bit earlier so have managed to read a lot as it was added. Was a great read to get up to speed though.
  4. I have exactly this on my Samyang @aleixandrus ( @groberts ) As stated, it's 44mm from the M48 adapter. ASI183 (6.5mm) + EFWmini (20mm) + 16.5mm ZWO adapter (from ASI183MM box) = 43mm 1mm spacer and something for your filters (0.3 x filter thickness). This will give you 44.Xmm where X is covering for your filter thickness. With my Astronomik filters (1mm thick) this is shown below - Baader 1mm aluminium spacer (gold), 0.3mm spacer, 16.5mm ZWO adpater. Then it's just the mini EFW and camera. This brings focus in under "L" on the focus ring for me. As mentioned elsewhere, back focus is critical on the Samyang and 0.1mm can throw the focus point out considerably. There is a huge thread on SGL discussing the Samyang 135. It contains images and tips on using it in a variety of ways:
  5. Superb Lucas. Fantastic detail and contrasts.
  6. I knew there was something I'd missed... the rotation! 😅
  7. What do you think is missing or not coming out so well? It looks like OSC data. Was the moon up at the time of shooting? I've quickly put it through PI - just adding back a reduced stretch of the stars helped reveal the nebulosity a little more. Background prep, MLT NR, remove stars, stretch, more NR, Curves, little sharpening, stretch stars separately + add stars. Lots of masks used along the way. I've been liberal in how much red I've left/put in I've left it at full size too so you can compare. EDIT: Grammar.
  8. Still using the free trial here Steve. I find its ability to work effectively changes across types and stages of processing - as you'd expect from noise reduction and a "trained AI" of course. More times than not I've found it can be strong and "broad brush" - even dialed down. I contacted the helpful author about the use of masks and obviously they can still be used but the AI shouldn't need them (was the rough response). Earlier in a workflow, I've found it good on backgrounds and diffuse nebulosity but that subtle detail that I'm tracking through each stage of processing can get lost easily. More testing required for me. No doubt a good tool with more development to come. As always, its key to understand its application and utilise it as carefully as we would other processes. It's a likely purchase (I believe there's a discount if you own another of the productline). My NR processes are usually MLT and/or TGV (and occasionally ACDNR).
  9. Hi @Pogo007. @Dean Hale has the pier on his CEM26 in the Owners thread here (with picture)
  10. The ASIAIR Pro is a controller isn't it? I use dew heaters with my ASIAIR Pro using one of these connected to an ASIAIR Pro power port: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-dc-to-rca-y-splitter-cable.html (They are linked to direct from the "frequently bought with this product" area of the ASIAIR. Within the ASIAIR software, you can turn the voltage up or down on a power port you designate as "Dew heaters".
  11. Very similar to @Adreneline (same ring for the belt on the lens). Link to post within this thread below.
  12. Excellent info in your reply. Good catch on mentioning balance in more detail - especially with the free moving iOptron mounts.
  13. Assuming the ASIAIR Plus is arriving soon, there's an argument there to wait and use the simpler software based approach built into this. After a few runs of it, you'll have it down in no time. As far as using the CEM26, a couple of items of note from your questions. Any time you expect the CEM26 to move ensure the allen wrench is removed. If I expect to manually rotate the RA axis to balance the scope, I remove the allen wrench. If I know where balance is then as soon as I lock the RA axis after setup, I remove the allen wrench. For (4) If I'm wildly out, then I do this (carefully). For (5) if I understand the question, initial Latitude adjustment is just to get you in the ball park for more precise adjustment with Polar Alignment. I setup and tear down each time and have some marks on the ground for the tripod. This way I know I'll be well within a degree for more precise polar alignment. On the ASIAIR it'll go something like this: Roughly set everything up, CW down, telescope pointing North, over the mount head, lined up with CW bar. Balance RA and DEC. Start ASIAIR software and connect all the equipment (including cameras) Start Polar Align routine in ASIAIR software It'll take an image, then move the mount ~60 degrees in RA. It'll then take another image and show how far off you are. You then proceed to adjust altitude and azimuth, retaking images (or letting the software continually take them) until you're close enough to be happy. Using the ASIAIR software, send the mount back to "Home" and get started.
  14. Hi @Pogo007 - for my CEM26 and ASIAIR Pro I need to connect via the hand unit - so, just simple USB2 from ASIAIR Pro to hand set, then normal handset connection into the mount.
  15. Fantastic mosaic @Spongey a treat to look over at full size.
  16. Graph now updated by ZWO for dark current. Looks like the expected numbers now.
  17. 👍 Guessing they've used the wrong Y-axis scale on the Dark Current as the number listed near -20 doesn't match the axis but does match the 533MC-Pro. The Y-axis scale provided looks more like the 294MM. 533MM graph (at time of writing) 533MC
  18. Superb Adrian. Excellent processing of the nebulosity and bags of detail being delivered by the modest focal lengths (punching above their weight) and the combination of data has worked well again - two sets for the price of one (not the literal price of course - we don't think about that!)
  19. It was great to complete a set of SHO data on the Rosette this year (I previously only managed Ha). I used the SM90 alongside the ASI294MM and Baader UNB filters. ~4h Ha and ~2.5h OIII and SII. Processed in PixInsight. Thanks for looking.
  20. You're right on all counts Steve! I purchased the following which I think is the same as your links above. I also got the related ClickLock clamp. On my RC6 I have the extension tubes on natively and with these, the focuser is fine and doesn't impact the scope. If you were to remove too many extension rings then you'd have a problem as you mention. Here is mine from last year - I think I'm missing one extension ring but can't be sure! @Adreneline has the 0.75x reducer alongside the BDS with no issues.
  21. 🤣 Very nice @scotty38 You've still got the highlights under control (inside the bubble and NGC7538)
  22. I thought this had been bubbling away longer but I started shooting the Rosette with my Samyang and 183MM at the start of February. I captured Ha and OIII but don't yet have an SII filter in that rig so asked @Adreneline if he had any data that covered this FOV and he managed to find something from his archives! (Thanks again Adrian). This is 5.6h Ha, 2.3h OIII and 50m SII. I couldn't use the stars from the SII so had to be creative in processing. It was fascinating to see the extra nebulosity streaming off the Rosette (typically seen in widefield images including the Cone nebula) and the OIII master had some good signal in the top left alongside the Rosette itself. I started to wonder if I could bring almost 4 hours of Ha with the StellaMira 90EDT and 294MM to life... Taking some drastic measures I scaled up the OIII and SII masters from the above image. The stars had to go on these as they unusable. It's a little rough and ready but was a fun process until I can grab the necessary native channels to match the Ha. Thanks for looking.
  23. Hi @Daf1983 It's been a couple of years but I used the Evostar 80ED with an ASI533MC-Pro. I have the following images on my Astrobin gallery taken with this combo. IC434 (B33), M106, M35, IC443, Double Cluster, Moon and Cygnus wall. Any shortcomings - and there are plenty - were all me I missed the sensor area of the DSLR I started with but in every other respect it was better and a very simple camera to use. I really liked the square sensor for most things. Hope this helps.
  24. Good write up Adrian. New mount, clear skies and a successful set of images? All seems a bit strange
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