geeklee

+1 I've used the same combination until recently and it was a very straightforward setup. The only downside is the smaller FOV with the ASI533 - obviously reflected in the price Vs say a 294MC-Pro (little) or a 2600MC-Pro (a lot). Examples in my Astrobin link in signature (e.g. M31 and M45)

I've heard a long forgotten story, an ancient tale, that there was a time...

That's terrible to hear Steve. As mentioned above, hopefully each component still works when used in isolation and maybe "only" the powered hub and/or the PPBA that has an issue? Hopefully fresh eyes and brain this morning reveals better news.

Ah, understood. Did you print a new ring? The way the gears mesh looks precise enough that some cleverly placed foam on the inside of the ring might not be enough (unless the Samyang is actually bigger in which case, no dice at all!). That would be an attractive point for people with these two - with you, me and @Adreneline that's three potentials anyway My RedCat setup is currently a fairly clunky arrangement not really suitable for the BlackCat but my Samyang setup could do with losing some weight and would be compatible. Thanks for the info anyway 👍

Any news on when the official Samyang lens version might be arriving Pierre (if it still is)? Or, do you have more details on the changes you made to support the RedCat version? Thanks. I wondered about this @Tomatobro and what the engagement would be like for AF precision. Honestly, I didn't think it would be suitable so designed and 3D printed a matching ring. It's cool it can work and seeing you with it setup 👍 Is that an extra pulley to tighten the belt (just below the focus ring)?

Very nice again Mick - with the images you've been posting recently it sounds like you have your mojo back after having some troubles with cameras earlier in the year. I like the second - with a little stronger OIII?

I still use the Astrokrakken rings on mine. There are similar (and cheaper) options from Astrojolo too. They do a job but perhaps not the greatest - maybe because they're trying to be so precise rather then give you a bit of leeway to use some felt! My manual focuser ring started to have a bit of an issue with one screw getting stuck - a problem when you have to fine focus so carefully - but that started happening just as I moved to an EAF. I've also seen the William Optics RedCat Mounting ring recommended too in this thread (with a suitable dovetail etc) I totally understand the reservations around 3D printed parts and @nephilim sounded like he had a bit of a nightmare with his so understandably took a different path. He's definitely spot on when he previously talked about a lot of money being supported by these solutions - so you need to be sure.

I got quite a surprise when I turned out the lights to see what impact this had being added to the kit. Looks OK in bright light, but that white plastic case hides nothing in the dark - the whole unit lights up! I used some black tape strategically placed to help reduce the light and hopefully not increase temperatures.

It's interesting as it shows all the different motivations and enjoyment we all get from the hobby. This quote struck a chord with me as I enjoy the whole process and achievement from start to finish and I don't have any appetite to only process remote data. I still enjoy processing to provide assistance if I can and the thought of collaboration. Looking at August 2020 to April 2021 I remember around 70-100 hours of integration (maybe a bit more of the small stuff). I remember maybe 2-3 nights where the kit was running 8-10 hours. People outside the UK (or even in better parts of the UK!) might laugh at that but it is what it is I still setup and tear down each night but try and keep kit together as much as possible - certainly a level of hardware & software automation made a big difference last year. As also mentioned above, I find it helps to have other distractions - family or other hobbies. I've mentioned before on SGL I don't think I could cope with hundreds of clear nights a year... but I'd still like a few more!

It's a good place to start @Craig a and you know you can tweak values based on advice above in the future if you want to. Main thing is getting going and being comfortable with the camera and its operation.

I'm always waiting to get caught out with this, but do something similar to @michael.h.f.wilkinson and @teoria_del_big_bang. Either I take the flats the day after (with the scope and associated image train still attached and sitting somewhere) or I even take them in advance being careful at all times with the rig! I've also let software create sky flats for filters in the dawn after a session - but I think that long a session only happens a few times a year in the UK!

I have the 183MM and this heavily stretched 180s master dark would give you a few moments of pause (at the very least): Here's a 180s Ha frame from the 183MM and a Samyang 135: And here's the calibrated version (just with a Master Dark) At 1:1 It took a while to get used to compared to my other cameras but I'm confident the master darks will always calibrate this out. The 183MC-Pro looks the same (or similar) from what I've seen.

While wringing every last drop out of our equipment is to be admired, I feel it should come with a warning that when you deviate on these settings you should be careful with all your calibration files. Being careful to ensure they match these settings and also that every time you take light frames in whatever application you use, that the camera is set the same every time and nothing has reverted to a default value (for example). I only say this as not everyone is experienced in AP when they get an astro camera. From what I've read on Astrobin and elsewhere, the offset tweak is just a small increase in dynamic range and you'd have to ask at what point you'd notice that in your images (for yourself you might of course! For me, I doubt it )

I just used the native offset (from ASCOM driver) when I had this camera. One less thing to think about. Plenty of people tweaking this a bit though.

Not sure it was a question of it would work just how efficient it might be. I'm glad the filter worked on the rings and you got an image you're happy with 👍

That's a cracking setup @rl great use of the CW and thanks for the pic to show it all setup. I've not usually got anything that heavy on mine (an RC6 being the biggest) but definite food for thought. Maybe that extra saddle might see the light of day!

Interesting @rl. I had assumed this wouldn't be rigid enough to rely on, with possible flexure to deal with.

If I could change just one thing on the AZEQ6 it would be the altitude adjustment mechanism - sticking up and out like that (the mechanism itself is sound, just the position and associated size I have issue with). Even with careful cable management I get caught out occasionally with it.

I purchased the AZ-EQ6 for imaging thinking "that AZ feature would be well handy as I want to continue with visual too". One lift of the mount and, later on, looking at all the imaging bits setup around it had me laughing at ever using it in AZ mode for visual. Re-setup the AZEQ6 for AZ and accompanying effort or just get my manual AZ mount + refractor out (or just a Dob by itself) and be observing in 2 minutes... The AZ bits have never left the AZEQ6 box. Just throwing in similar though processes I had

Superb Des - that new gear sounds like it's going to give you a lot of fun. At first glance I thought Deneb was just suffering from some diffuse lighting - maybe from some high cloud or something. If it's a halo, it doesn't seem as "in your face" as some for a single sub.

Thanks Des. Yeah this is how I understood it too with the original NBZ still working OK with slightly slower systems (F4) but the new one not so much. That should be quite the combination alongside the Samyang especially given the FOV demonstrated already with the OSC version.

Excellent Steve - great you've got everything working and got the chance to get out there and capture something after patiently putting your equipment together. What a fantastic start on IC1396. Nice one Des, it's a great FOV with the 2600MC and I thought the stars looked fine (for the Samyang at F2!). I've certainly seen plenty worse on my own stuff! Do you have the "UHS" version of the NBZ? Just wondering as I've seen two on FLO. It's enjoyable seeing the summer targets appearing on this thread and with July drawing to a close, I managed a couple of hours here and there after getting some help from @Adreneline to fight a spacing gremlin. These are shot with the ASI183MM camera and Astronomik MaxFR Ha and OIII filters. A mix of civil and nautical darkness. Click through for larger, more detailed versions. Veil Nebula - half at ~F2.4 and half at ~F2.8 - over two sessions - total of 1hr Ha and 1Hr OIII. NGC7000 and IC5070 (North American and Pelican nebula) - ~F2.4 - 1Hr Ha and 54 mins OIII. Standard HOO blend and then a mix with some Ha in the G and B channels. Thanks for looking and roll on the (clear) darker skies.

I think you've definitely exceeded this already, but those factors will certainly help you capture an image more easily !

I think it's just different compromises we each made. If I try and show a portion of the image at about the same scale you had then you can see it's getting close to breaking down if I keep pushing in this direction. Although the background is quite mottled you can see lots of Ha right in the noise level of the image. It's challenging but good data - you should definitely be pleased with what you've captured (and what you processed above in the thread). I used PixInsight but it's not the magic bullet 😅 I purposely tried to do as little as possible but with a different approach - less of a bright, stand out Veil but allow a bit more of the faint stuff to come through.

I couldn't bring more from the Western Veil, but the flip side was more faint data (and unfortunately lighter background) and Pickering's Triangle showing through in the top left. This has just had the background removed, made non-linear and some crude star reduction