RayD

If using frame and focus in SGPro make sure the 'high speed download' box in unticked.

Really good, looks great on full res.

If you do look at the graph and want it to be meaningful, I would change the viewing scale to one where you can see spikes and other issues that the graph can highlight for further investigation in the logs, rather than this scale which doesn't really show much other than the much desired flat lines. A typical scale of x: 100 and y: +/- 4" will give you a graph that doesn't necessarily look as pretty and flat as you may want it to, but it will tell you an awful lot more about what is going on and when. Glad you got positive results as guiding can be the cause of much frustration.

Thanks Graham, I just emailed Leonardo with a couple of other queries and, whilst he replied quickly, his reply was pretty much "this is automation software and will not do what you are asking, but NINA, SGP and APT will, so use them." It is a fair point and I think he is right as I do not have a fully automated set-up, I automate most of it but do it partly attended, and for that purpose I think SGP is probably going to suit my needs better. It's a good bit of software, but it really is targeted specifically at those who want to run a fully automated system.

Yeah, who said men can't multi-task 🙂

I'm sure it is a simple answer, and it isn't something I do when using SGP, but is there a way to automatically connect to the mount when opening CdC? It opens no problem, as does Sitec, but I then have to manually connect to the mount. I haven't looked in depth at it, but is this a CdC option, or can it be scripted in Voyager.

@Gorr_77 That's it exactly. I use the Atik 16200 and it is noticeably different when cooled and, if dithering, the rogue columns just magically disappear when stacking. It's a great sensor.

Yes it's perfectly normal on a grade 2 sensor, which most manufacturers use for astro imaging cameras. Some of them disappear when the sensor is cooled, and the others calibrate out with no issues.

Yeah it is a bit of a nuisance, and only needs the smallest bit of light. I must admit I've never noticed it on my light frames, only darks, which I only redo every few months so is not too painful to make sure they are done when the obsy is dark. I can only assume the level of lighting is fairly high if it is affecting it through these apertures, but are you certain is isn't through the objective end ie reflected light? I have this when I leave my IR light on my camera at certain angles, so turn this off when I image. Hope you get it resolved as small things like this are a proper annoyance.

Have a look at a video I did on this subject. It isn't just Atik, it's a common thing and why darks should ideally be taken in the dark.

Thanks, Steve. you could be right as I did start it manually. I'll try it again with it starting automatically. I thought about the trial version re the scripts also but when I checked last night it noted the trial is a full version, only needing the license updated at the end, with none of the files changing, so I pretty much dismissed that. Thanks for the feedback re Viking.

I've tried and it doesn't work for me either @steppenwolf so I'm not sure it is anything you are doing wrong as I followed the most logical route and the Wiki. Had my first full lock up with it last night though when using Viking with my Velleman card. I'm going to try to reproduce it tonight and capture the fault, but I had to close everything down and reboot, so not ideal.

Yep same as Skipper Billy, I use that set up (in fact that is my YouTube video), and it works a treat. I use and find the direct connection is the best for me, and it keeps the sensor slightly close to the filters to reduce vignetting, it is a fairly big sensor. Enjoy, it's a great combination.

No, track far enough so that a meridian flip isn't necessary.

Have you checked that the Mesu will track far enough to do what you're after? I've not tried with mine so I don't know, but not all mounts are capable of this.

I know Grant from Flo has been using the ASiair pretty extensively and I believe rates it pretty highly. If you have a lot of other PLL gear, so already have the dovetails etc. to mount it, then it is a reasonabley good option (assuming you are only planning to use a DSLR. If you are planning to use anything other than a DSLR then you need to look at other options, with the ASiair only supporting ZWO camers, and the Ekos based units offering extended compatibility.

Yes sorry I din't write that very well, I meant it only supports ZWO cameras if not using a DSLR. The Eagle Core only supports DSLR's

Superb. As an imager (if there is such a thing) I almost felt like I was there with you willing each OTA on. Thanks, Stu.

It isn't really comparible as they do different things, but the comparison is naturally there to be drawn. As noted above by Wim the ASIAir is for ZWO cameras, and the Eagle Core is for the supported DSLR's. Each has its own benefits but it ultimately comes down to exactly what you would be using it for as, once you get one, that is all you can use it for (Atik Base and Stellarmate aside as they both use Ekos so support lots of cameras and other stuff).

@Jkulin I reckon he could be right, John. I had exactly the same using my FSQ106 in Spain when there was very light (almost unnoticeable high cloud) and imaging a specific target. Slewed to a different, relatively close by, target and artifacts went.

I am currently reviewing one and will have a video up shortly. They are ok but, as mentioned, are for the supported range of DSLR's only. They do have a guiding app built in but, apart from aquisition that is about it. You don't have the capacity to store image on the unit (no SD card) so you need to use the SD card storage on the DSLR. The 3 power outs are handy, and you can buy the plugs and make your own leads. They aren't proprietary plugs and can be purchased relatively cheaply but, from my experience with the Eagle 2, you do need to check the polarity on the sockets as PLL do not necessarily adhere to converntions here. It is a reasonabl little unit and works really well with PLL's line of +Plus accessories. They release regular firmware updates adding features and supported cameras all the time. It has a limited use but for what it is used for it is pretty good and has some useful functions. Personally I would probably opt for something like the Atik Base which is an RPI/Ekos unit, and allows you to use other cameras etc.

I use a few of the above but can only select one. I guess the one I use most is SGPro. I find the GUI really well designed, clean and well thought out and, generally, it does and awful lot for the money and does it well. However, and it is a big however, Jared and Ken just seem to not want to include many of the feature requests unless they are already on their planned workflow, which really isn't keeping the users that happy. It works for me, and works very well, but I used it in fixed observatories with very little changing of equipment, which can cause it to have some moments. I am currently trialling (and now using) Voyager which seems very good and robust, although it does seem to be specifically targeted at robotic observatories and full automation rather than interactive imaging, so is not as intuit to use and lacks some visual feedback, it just gets on with capturing images. Platesolving and autofocus routines work great, and there is a decent looking mosaic module, but I have only played with this and haven't used it in anger. I use BYEOS to capture DSLR images with my Canon 450D as I run this as a stand-alone on my AZEQ6 using EXMOD. This is bomb proof and never faults. I tried some of the others (NINA, EKOS, APT etc) but for differing reasons each just didn't deliver what I wanted/needed in my particular application. I'll probably be sticking with SGPro for at least another season, but continuing to use Voyager alongside it with the hope that they do add the little feedback touches that will make it a really good alternative to SGPro.

Is this running two instances of SGPro, Sara?

Polemaster is very good particularly because of the convenience, as you rightly say. Software wise both Polemaster and Sharpcap do the same, very good, job but if like me you use an OAG, or do not use guiding so don't have access to the specified FOV then Sharpcap could be out of the question. Polemaster is also easy to swap to other imaging rigs as well if you run a couple at a time, such as one for DSO's and a smaller one for wide field. All options are very good and perfectly capable of obtaining a very good level of PA, but Polemaster also provides the necessary hardware, which is why it is more expensive naturally.

Yep, same as @Skipper Billy I use Polemaster to get close, then drift align. I do it once every few months as, once you're used to it, it only takes about 40 minutes for a really good alignment, and even if it hasn't changed it means it has been checked.