Adam J

I would be shocked if it was not compatable. Am sure they will get back to you. Adam

My advice is buy a flattner or a reducer before you buy a dedicated camera. Adam

Yeah thats not nomal just make sure its not your power supply causing issues before you consider returning it. Adam

Got confused with the model number was thinking of a different camera. Not a fan of their model numbering system.

it's not the camera as such if it's working in sharp cap. Just the other platforms have not gotten support fully sorted out yet or it's a driver issue. I would give it a couple of months before assuming it's going to be an issue. Problem with being an early adopter.

yeah but remembering you need at least 24 exposures for dithering to be able to properly reject hot pixels.

I would still say a UV/IR cut even in 6-7. Adam

think I answered this one recently but there is a difference in the specified band pass for the blue filter 400nm for the new one Vs 380nm for the old one. There may be other tweeks to the coating but all in all you can still use the old CCD set on CMOS cameras without issues as I do. So no it's not a pure rebranding. Adam

This sort of thing is exactly why I will not be "upgrading" from my 5nm Astrodon Filters to Chinese made filters any time soon. Even if I can supposedly get 3nm Chinese filters for less than the cost of 5nm AD filters. Adam

I don't think that would be the case. The big risk with their kit is putting the power supply into one of the output instead of the input, very little to go wrong apart from that. Certainly on balance of risk I would not be paying £60 for a low capacity power supply. Also if buying from FLO I would be shocked if you got treated like that. Adam

I am sure that any 12 - 13.8 volt supply will do just fine. Adam

You simply measure the bearing, one number will be the inside diameter another the outside diameter and the final one the depth of the bearing. Then search google for those measurements and select a nice shielded ceramic one. Adam

SO...to bring this back onto topic, there are reports that people who have more recently opened the mount up found glue like residue already on and around the adjustment screw. So it appears that Skywatcher may have taken note and added a step to the build process to prevent the screw from becoming loose over time. See purple substance below on and around the thread. Essentially the same solution as what I applied to my mount. Credit: Challenger 75 on cloudy nights https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/808906-star-adventurer-gti/page-21 Adam

My worry would be that you might have issues reaching focus as the 0.8x flattener that comes with that scope is very long. If you have a large amount of outward focus travel then you may get away with it though while maintaining the required spacing for the Planostar flattener. Maybe someone else has done something similar though. Adam

Not sure but what I can tell you is that my CCD optimised set work just fine with my CMOS camera.....so not much space for improvement. Although if the chart is anything to go by the newer set is cutting at 400nm instead of 380nm on the blue filter.....would have thought that would be more dependent on the correction of your camera but it might indicate higher blue / violet sensitivity in CMOS in comparison to CCD....though i am not sure that is true. My experience though is that is you are poorly corrected in Blue 400nm wont cut it you need to be at more like 420nm to see a significant improvement. Adam

Actually while that ZWO is technically a duel band filter its very wide in the OIII and so is not a true duel narrow band filter. I would get something like the L-Extreme instead. It looks to be almost 40nm wide.

Are you sure you have those the right way around as I would have expected the teal colour from the tri-band and the green from the duel band. That tri-band filter is not what I would select for an emission nebula. For the 533 i would grab a 1.25. Adam

I think i need a photo as I am a little confused as to what you are trying to describe. As far as i remember the stop ring does not interact with the filter thread.

It should go on. Do you mean that the thread locks up before its fully engaged?

Does it thread onto the badder coma corrector, seem to remember that mine had a thread on the scope side of it. As an aside though I don't like tri band filters duel band is the way to go. Adam

I always expect Dec to work better than RA as if you are well aligned the Dec should not even need to move lol.

I know that my ASI1600MM pro only draws 1A when cooling ot -20c. So 3A supply is reasonable as you should not run a supply at full rated draw continually anyway. If you are going to power the entire rig and not just the camera 5A is then a reasonable choice. Adam

Yes they need a UK distributor and retailer. Until then it's not attractive to me. Adam

Yes for the 3nm I would be shocked if its not also a similar margin, placing all these filters in overlapping error bands. Its deminishing returns but with an element of gambling lol Adam

Its 2.8nm +or- 0.5nm so you could end up with a 3.3nm filter..... Adam