Adam J

A friend already contacted them with exactly that question, you still need the handset. I would not let that put you off too much though. Adam

The HEM15 is the better match for travel its just lighter. The AM3 is not really that much lighter than the AM5. But honestly the SW GTI will carry what you are looking at just fine. Adam

Box: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F9S5W2R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1A6WWKJ95BCLL&psc=1 Battery Monitor: DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V 84V Battery Meter with Alarm, Front Setting and Switch Key, Battery Capacity Voltage Indicator Battery Gauge Monitors -Acid and Lithium ion Battery Indicator (Green) : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo XT60 Connectors: Nuofany 5Pairs XT60E-F Female Plug XT60h XT60 Male Bullet Connector Wire Cable Plug for RC FPV Lipo Battery RC Quadcopter : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games 5volt regulator: Voltage Converter - DC 12V to 5V Step Down Buck Converter Regulator with Female Mount Panel +USB Socket for Car Audio,Radio,Monitor,LED (IP67 Waterproof) : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo 12volt regulator: DROK DC-DC Stabilizer, 9V-36V to 12V Boost Buck Converter 5A 60W Waterproof Auto Step Up Down Voltage Regulator 12V Volt Transformer for Car Audio Solar Power System LCD Television LED Display Screen: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo Similar switches: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BD39FPRQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1DPAY3BCHO71J&psc=1 Could not find the same output voltage monitor but this would work: CNLW DC 5-100V LED Digital Display Round Two-wire Voltmeter DC Digital Car Voltage Current Meter Volt Detector Tester Monitor Pane (Red) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools 5.5/2.1 connectors: YIXISI 5.5 x 2.1mm DC Power Connector Kit, 5 PCS DC-099 Jack Socket Threaded Female Adapter with Cable, 5 PCS DC Power Male Pigtail Wire, with Waterproof Cap: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo Batteries: ECO-WORTHY 12V 8Ah Rechargeable LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery with Over 3000 Times Deep Cycle for Fish finder,Ride on Car,Emergency Ham Radio,Burglar Alarm System,Kid Scooter,Solar Panel: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science Charger: ISDT Q6 Nano Lipo Charger,DC 200W Smart Digital Charger for RC Batteries,Universal Balance Discharge Charger for LiFe/Lilon/LiPo/LiHV (1-6S),NiMH/Cd (1-16S),Pb (1-12S) Batteries: Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games Use LIFe mode So allot of this I already have and sometimes you get this stuff cheaper on ebay selling single items while most of this is bulk buy. SO the cost is more than I paid. You need to shop about a bit. You can fit it all in the box i used, but you will have an easier time if you go a size larger I think. Adam

I think there would be benefit in blowing the dust off your camera / filters. But that is not because the flats are not working looks like they are, Its more because you dont want the situation when dust moves during a project and then your flats will not work. Adam

Its not really got amp glow and even if it did I would not see this as a reason not to choose it, just use calibration frames to remove it. Your choice if between a larger sensor yielding a larger field of view or a smaller sensor yielding better sensitivity. However, if you have to take more than one frame to cover any given target it will demolish any sensitivity advantage of the 533. SO the only question you should ask yourself is can i cover the targets I want to image with the 533 using my intended scope. Adam

Its 1e vs 1.2e at the kind of gain you would use for short exposures using HCG mode... However, ZWO have not used the lowest read noise mode (HDR mode) of the 585 chip....that would have allowed the read noise to drop to 0.5e-0.65e, I don't know why they have not done it?? So like the mode used by the Altair Hypercam version. https://www.altairastro.com/altair-hypercam-585c-colour-fan-cooled-usb3-astronomy-camera-13481-p.asp IN terms of QE I think you are comparing relative response on the 533 and actual QE on the 585 so they are actually very different. Adam

Unfortunately pure alcohol has very low surface tension and so it flows really easy around things in a thin film in comparison to water.

Doesn't have to be the case, the AR coating is not a single layer but a stack of layers that are optimised for different wavelength ranges. It is entirely possible (depending on quality control) for one of those layers to be messed up and the others to still work. However, until disproved with a different filter the OIII being defective remains the most likely issue. The most likely issue with the filter itself is that it is not cutting IR effectively and allowing light to pass in the IR that is potentially outside of the wavelength range covered by the sensor AR coating and so those micro lens diffraction patterns are generated by IR as opposed to the OIII part of the spectrum....not that it matters why in the end. I say this as the its happening on even less bright stars yet at the same time the OIII line is still clearly well filtered given the signal you still gathered. Like I say just a theory to match the observed effects. Adam

I feel i know what has happened here..... They should not have gotten you to clean it yourself. When you cleaned it am guessing you used alcohol and unfortunately alcohol and glue don't play nicely together, you basically dissolved the glue with alcohol. I view this as their fault though as they clearly did not give you sufficient instruction in how to clean the mirror. You can actually see on your picture of the pad how the alcohol has seeped in around the edges leaving a small untouched patch of glue in the centre of the adhesive pad. Adam

Potentially significantly lower read noise so potential for very short exposures even down to 5 seconds and less on some brighter galaxies. Mitigates guiding errors on large long focal length scopes and if you can go short enough it will mitigate some of the seeing too. Further more even in the case of more conventional exposure length in my opinion the smaller pixels will benefit allot of galaxy imaging setups as you want to have better sampling on an OSC due to the effects the bayer matrix has on resolution. Adam

In general I agree and lots of what I own is used. But someone has to buy it new for someone else to buy it used lol. Some people will want a shiny new unboxing experience and warranty just like some people want that new car smell. Cameras should normally be ok used, but I have come to the conclusion that I don't like the mine field of buying used Chinese made optics. Too much sample variation. That aside this 585 will be superior for galaxy imaging to the 533 and for some that's all they want to do. Those people won't find a used one.

Yeah but you can say that about anything second hand Vs new. You can get a used 294mm for cheaper than a new 533mm....etc etc.

I don't think it's the scope. The filter is suspect in my view and if a new filter doesn't solve it maybe the coating on the sensor cover glass is defective. Definitely contact your supplier. It's actually potentially worse than what I have seen from the ASI1600mm pro on that target. On the 1600 it would be confined to only the two brightest stars and no others in that field of view.

Interesting that you are getting microlensing from a ASI2600mm?? Anyone else ever had this? Are you sure your filter is the correct way around? Adam

I have started a general discussion of mobile power solutions in the thread below. But I start by detailing my DIY power rig and as such I thought a link from DIY astronomy was also relevant. Please reply in the linked thread not this one! Cheers, Adam

Following a discussion Hijacking the HEM15 review thread I have started a dedicated thread here. The system I have made and flown with on both Easyjet and Ryan Air is detailed below: I take two of these LiFePo4 batteries: ECO-WORTHY 12V 8Ah Rechargeable LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery with Over 3000 Times Deep Cycle for Fish finder,Ride on Car,Emergency Ham Radio,Burglar Alarm System,Kid Scooter,Solar Panel : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science They are 8Ah at a nominal 12 volts for 96Wh per battery Batteries under 100Wh per pack are almost universally allowed on flights in carry on luggage. You have to be really careful, not all will allow over 100Wh while FAA regs state up to 160Wh, some will allow this, but frequently this is limited to 2 packs and in some cases they do now allow a total (for all batteries) >300Wh. So you would not be allowed to take two 160Wh batteries. This has been suggested: Celestron Lithium 13.2 Ah LiFePO4 Powertank Pro | First Light Optics But I like to keep it simple, everyone will let you take a 96Wh battery on a plane in hand luggage, you cant get tripped up by it. But honestly that aside the Celestron power tanks is £235.... Here is what I put together for £120 pounds all inclusive using two batteries of 98Wh each for a total of 196Wh and that price includes a charger....so why anyone would pay for that power tank is beyond me unless you really did not pay attention in your GCSE physics and cant wire a battery to a connector and I really doubt that applies to very many people in this hobby. This is 2x96Wh LiFePo4 batteries. The batteries each include a battery management system to prevent, overheating, over charging, over current, and over discharge internally as stock, I tested and it works. I have attached cables two each terminating in a Female XT60 connector. The batteries attach to a control box in parallel with three Male XT60 connectors. This means you get the full 192Wh without disconnecting a battery, you can also charge the batteries in parallel by connecting a charger to the third connector. The Box contains a Battery charge monitor (top green) that displays percentage charge and battery voltage. Further more it contains a 12.2 volt regulator with boost (that way you can run the battery down to 11.2volts while still maintaining 12.2volts on the output (no low voltage issues), also it can make use of any battery or power supply from 8volts to 24volts and still output 12.2volts. You could even charge while in use. It also contains a 5volt regulator that outputs to a USB A-type socket so that any USB device can also be charged / powered from the batteries and finally a switch... For me this is a vastly better solution than the celestron power tank and much much cheaper. It then all attached to a power distribution box on the scope dovetail from one output and the second output powers the mount and mini PC. Discuss: Adam

You have to be really careful, not all will allow over 100Wh and some will allow single 160Wh but not allow a total (for all batteries) over >300Wh so you would not take two 160Wh batteries. I keep it simple, everyone will let you take a 98Wh battery on a plane in hand luggage, you cant get tripped up by it. But honestly that aside the Celestron power tanks is £235....what I suggested above is £100 for two batteries of 98Wh each for a total of 196Wh and that price includes a charger why anyone would pay for that power tank is beyond me unless you really did not pay attention in your GCSE physics and cant wire a battery to a connector and I really doubt that applies to very many people in this hobby. As this has Hijacked the HEM15 thread for too long now I have made a new thread here: That way we can get back to discussing the HEM15 which I want to hear more about so please move battery discussion to the new thread. Adam

So looks like ZWO are bringing out a new cooled version of the ASI585mc and it's expected to be competitively priced as a camera to introduce more people into cooled deep sky imaging. Apparently it may land in the region of £600 pounds which really would be impressive if true.

Yes I have taken them on a Ryan Air and a easyJet flight in hand luggage without issue. In the UK they did not even look at them. But in Spain they removed them and took a look at the capacity. All good.

I just use this type of battery: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ECO-WORTHY-Rechargeable-Phosphate-Emergency-Fishfinder-8AH-Lithium-Battery/dp/B08ZSBS1ZY/ref=pd_aw_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_3?pd_rd_w=m2RAD&content-id=amzn1.sym.42c045e2-bd09-44b6-b445-e4140e05d91f%3Aamzn1.symc.acfafb1d-071f-4fdf-beff-aca206a47be9&pf_rd_p=42c045e2-bd09-44b6-b445-e4140e05d91f&pf_rd_r=7ADW105Z7QZ6CT4RAESY&pd_rd_wg=OYmeH&pd_rd_r=e7fab86d-47e1-4e5b-bfb3-8f9602426e0e&pd_rd_i=B08ZSBS1ZY cheep and it works really well. Sized for airline travel with a battery management system included. All you need to do is make sure the terminals are covered for air travel and also buy a suitable charger. Why pay more. Adam

Also Wipe the ENTIRE filter wheel down it will be full of spores and you want them all dead. Adam

Well for a start they are not nearly identical. I have recently seen results that show better contrast from chroma 8nm than Antlia 3nm filters. Chroma 8nm Ha, 5nm Sii/Oiii vs Antlia 3nm SHO 50mm round filters - Experienced Deep Sky Imaging - Cloudy Nights But in any case you need to get it off as it fungus can be acidic and will etch the filter coatings if you don't get it off sharpish. I would use what you have, acetone is recommended and you have some so use that, then wash it off with distilled water after that. Don't worry about little water marks for now, just get the fungus off ASAP and worry about that later. I personally use pure cotton buds to wipe the surface, the important thing it is to keep rotating the bud and use many many buds so your lifting the stain from the surface not just moving it about. Adam

Never heard of anything like that before.....very very odd. My bet is that it's something very simple that you have missed. The GT71 is actually a very simple but of kit you know. Perhaps some pictures and a sub will help people help you.

Olly is that image Duel narrow band data?

it is possible they have improved it.