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Found 60 results

  1. Both little used, 'as new' condition, selling due to change of camera. Price incl. shipment: Ha: £99; CLS: £49 These are compatible with Canon 5D / 6D, etc, here are the links for details on these filters: https://www.365astronomy.com/optolong-h-alpha-7nm-narrowband-deepsky-filter-for-for-full-frame-canon-eos-cameras.html https://www.365astronomy.com/optolong-cls-city-light-suppression-filter-for-full-frame-canon-eos-cameras.html Regards, t
  2. For sale is my Daystar Quark, Chromosphere version. It has had infrequent use and I can't justify keeping it. Works superbly with my ED80. It was purchased in July 2017 from Widescreen Centre so is still well within the 5 year warranty period. I am looking for £625 posted to a UK mainland address. Everything is complete in the box including instructions, USB cable and power adaptor. Payment by bank transfer please.
  3. Heyyy its meee kronos and i have been wondering about getting a filter...I really want the best contrast and brightness i can on my nebulas(i want to view M42 M57 M27 M31 M81 M82 and lots more) with my future 8" dob. Is this filter really going to help me? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/es_uhc_filter_125.html If it just a matter of quality of the filter itself can you suggest a better one in the same price range? Or will not the uhc filter help me in general .IF so can you reccomend another one? Also is this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/uhc-filter.html this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/es_uhc_filter_125.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/baader-uhc-s-filter.html this better?
  4. Heyyyyy its me againnn . I am trying to find a good UHC (Open to OIII ones aswell) filter to use for nebula observation. I ve stumbled upon these 2 : 1 Explore Scientific UHC Nebula Filter https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/explore-scientific-uhc-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html 2 UHC FILTER https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uhc-oiii-visual-filters/uhc-filter.html Can somebody tell me which is better? Or if somebody has one themselves , can tell me if they are worth buying or just saving for a better one. If you want to you can recommend me a good UHC OR OIII filter for viewing Nebulas thanks. -Kronos
  5. I can't find any clip in Light pollution filters for Nikon cameras, specifically my trusty D90. Does anyone know where I can get my hands on one? it's been suggested that I just get a cannon already and I might in a few years but not now! I have found this Optolong UHC Ultra High Contrast Filter - Nikon D5000, D5100 Clip filter, but I don't know if it will work with a Nikon d90? any advice would be appreciated! cheers
  6. Hello Everyone, I have 7x 36mm Baader filters in my QHY Filter wheel. I use a simple Orion 80ED with a manual focuser. I have two questions basically. a) How important is refocusing between the LRGB Ha OIII and SII filters? b) If important, then how do I manually calculate the offset distance between them assuming the filters aren't parfocal?
  7. Stupid question time! My 2" Altair dielectric diagonal has a thread on the tube end that inserts into my Skywatcher ST120 telescope, so if I buy a new 2" filter to use I assume that I can screw the 2" inch filter in here OK so I can then use either my 2" EP I have, or with my 1.25" adapter inserted into the diagonal also with all my 1.25" EPs to right? None my other 1.25" diagonals has a thread at that end of it, so can't test any of my 1.25" filters like this with any of my current equipment line-up,
  8. Hello All, Returning to astro after a break. Is this moon filter any good? http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-2012-Crystalview-telescope-eyepiece/dp/B00A6PASTC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1385415694&sr=8-4&keywords=moon+filter+for+telescope I had a cheaper one which was awful, I don't want to be blinded; if not this could someone recommend an alternative?
  9. Hello all, last I night I give a try at Orion Nebula when the clouds were not in the way I live in a fairly light polluted city centre (with a thick orange sky glow) so I decided to buy a Baader UHC-S filter to see if it would help, so this is my first light with the UHC-S and I was chuffed! In my opinion, it's worth every cent! Normally, even when taking a lot of subs, darks and flats I end up with weird gradients, heavy noise, lack of contrast and other annoying artifacts that not even post processing can get rid of, but last night the UHC-S blessed me and with only a bunch of quick subs and darks I've finally got some decent contrast, decent colours and detail ! Again, not an Hubble grade picture and very far from those crazy 100 hours Ha-RGB stacks, but it's my first half-decent DSO image so I'm happy with it (it must have been my lucky night yesterday, as I was lucky also with Jupiter). I think it needs some more post processing as there is a bit more signal and nebulosity to squeeze out. Any comment or advise appreciated! Celestron 80ED (F/7.5) Motorised EQ5 (Rough polar alignment) 2" UHC-S Filter Nikon D7000 20 subs, 20 seconds each, ISO 1600 5 Darks Churned by DSS Squeezed by Adobe Lightroom Thanks for watching!
  10. So I am not quite total beginner to astro images, but I am not hurrying to get to telescope range due to various factors and I did not find similar topic on several first pages of search, so this topic might be best suitable here. I have a camera that has a possibility to track astro-images up to 5 minutes, which is enough for me to take the Milky Way shots and even some Nebulae, clusters and similar level images. I have moved to the location that is a more light polluted than the one I lived before (from http://darksitefinder.com/maps/world.html : I lived close to the edge of yellow and all the dark orange, the city was light orange, now I live in the middle of red, the city is gray/white). It would be not so bad, as there are some empty fields around, so no very close light sources (same as in previous location), but the Milky Way is now directly above the city with way bigger light pollution opposed to the location where I had the MW in opposite side from the city. As nearest dark location is not for everyday drive (around an hour for a bit darker place), and even in red zone I get some recognizable images, I want to continue working on my technique and started looking to Light Pollution filters (I travel to some darker areas several times a year, but not too often). I found several 100mmx100mm filter brands, and several round ones, but I found no comparisons between them and very little to no sample images or reviews: PureNight Premium Light Pollution Reduction Filter by Lonely Speck – Lonely Speck - Lonelyspeck filter at the moment unavailable NiSi NiSi Natural Night Filter for Nighttime Light NIP-100-NGT Nisi filters Haida 100x100mm/4x4" Nanopro MC Optical Glass/ HD3702 B&H Haida filters IDAS Filters and Accessories IDAS LPS-D1 (round filter) Astronomik CLS Filter (round filter) I would prefer getting 100x100mm filter, as I can use it for multiple lenses (I have 49-86 filter thread lenses), but I could live with 77mm, if it is really worth it and possible to use with step-up/down rings. Any recommendations - is it worth to get any of these, or did I miss some good one, or any reviews? Are they worth buying? Clip-in filters are not an option because of camera brand (Pentax). Also, in the future I am considering modifying this camera after I will get a newer one (http://www.spencerscamera.com/store/store_product_detail.cfm?Product_ID=25&Category_ID=1) - any recommendations which modification type to choose and why (this is totally green part for me)? Also, will the chosen LP filter work with the modification?
  11. I'm happy owner of 25×100 CELESTRON binos, i want to know : a) is really an improvement to use grey filter for lunar observation ? b)is it possible to screw filter on these oculars ? Thanks for your help.
  12. Hi, I dont understand this... The camera comes with an IR-filter, which is removable. The spec's says "IR-Cut filter: 22 mm. Can be removed to be replaced with other filters". I don't have any filter that fits there. The cam also comes with an extension tube, that only fits in the IR filter's outer thread. If I want to add e.g. a 1.25" moon filter to the cam, it does not fit in the IR-filters outer thread, and not in the filter thread of the cam either. Thus, to add another filter, the IR filter must be in place and to that you must screw the extension tube (it doesn't fit anywhere else), and to that you finally can add another 1.25" filter. Am I totally lost or has anyone solved this problem? What if I don't want to use the IR filter. /Mats
  13. Hi all. Pondering getting a decent OIII filter to use, but will I see any benefit really in my main ST120 frac at at which is my main scope I use? From what I've read it is 6" and above scopes that benefit from the filter, so this may show promise in my Celestron C6-N reflector perhaps. Any experience/views from anyone who may have an ST120 or C6-N scope would be welcome, and also I've heard that the astronomic OIII filter are very good, so any advice as to which are good/bad makes would be great too! Thanks! Oh! Suffer from moderate LP where I live too, and have a UHC Explore Scientific filter already.
  14. This post is about what I did during the British Monsoon. I have not many techniques to share here. It just want to encourage others that want to be able to look at the sun with a low budget (£25) and safe Solar filter. I was able to make one filter for my scope (102mm) and two small ones for my binoculars (2x 50mm). Actually you can produce 2 sets and share the cost with a friend. Only £12.50 for a set of filters, scope and binos. Materials Baader Astrosolar Filter Film A4 size - £23 One thick cardboard - recycled One thin cardboard - recycled from filter's posting package. Bendable card - £1.29 Masking tape - daughter's school kit One A4 sheet - daughter's school kit Tools Cardboard knife Sealer tape Scissors One CD and tin 1- Cut the A4 sheet in half and use it as model to cut the thick cardboard, the thin cardboard and the baader film filter. 2- You only need to cut circles in the cardboards. They will be the film holders. You can use the film square as it is. 3- Use the CD (102mm) to draw a big circle and a can around 50mm diameter to draw the small circles. Spread the circles wisely so there is enough space for the film to cover the circle, and expands until close to the edge of the cardboard. 4- The film holder is going to be a sandwich of one thick cardboard, the thin cardboard and the film filter in the middle. 5- Before sticking the film to the holder, remember to remove the fine translucency plastic that covers the filter on the side that is not protected by the tissue paper that comes with it. 6- Cut three stripes in the bendable cardboard, two inches or 5cm each. And one stripe of one inch or 2.5 cm for the binos.Use these stripes to make a tube that will fit to the scope/ binos. Just tape it as you circle the aperture of your scope/binos. 7- Use the tapes to put together the film, film holders and tubes. 8- To avoid the filters touching each other, fit the filters in different levels in the binos objective. I already tried it and I am very happy with the result. Any question please let me know. Kind regards
  15. Guest

    Variable star

    Hi, I am doing an end of degree project on variable stars due next thursday and London's weather does not allow finish it. I was wondering if someone would do me the favour of observing the pulsating variable star V0460 Andromeda http://variablestars.net/stars/460/ in the Johnson R filter, for a period of 1 hour and 50 minutes? please? Thanks so much!
  16. Hi, What can you do during a rainy and boring day? Yes, write something about about old project ideas that newer have been realized. For many years I have been wondering how to construct a beam splitter system to make more efficient use of exposure time when doing color or narrow band imaging. I have today written down my ideas here: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-high-efficiency-narrow-band-imaging/project-high-efficiency-narrow-band-imaging.html There are a lot of interesting links there too to read. /Lars
  17. i was wondering if anyone had any experiences with the idas uv/ir and the idas uv/ir ha enhanced. Any advice would be appreciated about which one to use with a full spectrum camera.Thanks!
  18. With the 2 Baader filters , Continuum and Polarising , that brings the price of the Lunt Solar Wedge up to about £250 - is it worth it at this point of the Solar cycle ?
  19. I ordered a set of filters to go with my Celestron 127eq Powerseeker Telescope and noticed that a lens and the barlow that came with my telescope do not have threads that i can attach my filter to: I also noticed that some of these filters have threads on both sides except the moon filter, not sure what thats about but doesnt seem to help the situation: As far as the Barlow goes, can I just drop the moon filter into it then drop the lens over it like this?
  20. Hello all, I am trying to process data captured on friday during almost full moon, and I'm having a hell of a time of it.. Due to the full moon doing it's best sun impression my target was an open cluster (NGC 225 in Cassiopea), thinking it would be doable. I was using my 2" Explore Scientific CLS filter, my unmodded Nikon D7100 and captured 92 usable 45 second subs at ISO 400. Calibrated with bias and flat frames and stacked with linear fit clipping as the pixel rejection algorith. The mission for the night was not getting particularly good data, but getting decent tracking and round stars, something I have had lots of trouble with! Now that I am trying to process it, I find im dealing with some very nasty gradients / casts and I can't seem to get any good colors. An initial strech reveals a strong blue color cast/gradient that I can deal with in a number of ways. Linear fit DBE ABE followed by the usual: SCNR (green) Color Calibration No matter what I do I end up with the whole image being either really green or really red and not much else for color in any of the stars. I also think i burned out all the major stars by over saturation.. I know the CLS filter is going to wreak havoc on colors because it completely blocks parts of the spectrum, so maybe the CLS filter is just the wrong tool for the job? If anyone would like to show me what they can get from this data, and how (so preferably with PI) I would be really grateful. At the moment im thinking maybe the data is just really bad and not useable? Linked is the final integrated xisf (only xopped slightly): https://www.dropbox.com/s/nmxds87toc7vz51/integration.xisf?dl=0
  21. Aenima

    wizardHaOiii

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wizard nebula NGC7380. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  22. Aenima

    WIZARD NEBULA ha NGC7380

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha shot of the Wizard nebula in Cepheus. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  23. Hi all! A petition is now online against the Star Eater. It has been proposed by myself and reviewed by Laurent Laveder, Thierry Legault, Ian Norman, Damian Peach, Aaron D. Priest and Babak Takeshi. We invite you to sign it and share it to the max: http://www.change.org/p/sony-remove-the-star-eater-on-sony-a7s-r-mk-i-ii-and-a9-cameras Clear sky Fred
  24. I have finally gotten through my second round of acquiring equipment to get myself where I'd like to be viewing-wise. At current time I am just viewing and sketching, no photography. I have a new 2" dielectric diagonal for use with my Celestron 8SE. I have 3 new EPs, all are Explore Scientific 82*, I got the 30mm, 18mm and 4.7mm. I have come to realize the 4.7mm may be a bit much zoom for my scope, but that's okay. I love these EPs and will see if I can't find occasion to use it. Anyway, I also got myself a DGM Optics 2" Nebula Filter. I've only been out once with it on a night when I had some other technical difficulties and ended up not getting to mess around with it as much as I would have liked. In the little bit of experimenting I did with it, I didn't have any luck seeing any of the nebulas I looked for. I was under dark skies and viewing conditions were good. I looked for the North America nebula and a couple others I can't remember. I have now been waiting for the skies to clear, and when I go back out I hope to get to see some things that are better through the filter. Does anybody have any suggestions for DSO's that would be good targets with my specific filter? As a follow up question, I've been looking into the possibility of getting an OIII filter, but finding that they are quite expensive. Are there significant benefits in having an OIII filter if I am not taking photos? Thanks everyone and hope you folks across the pond are finally getting some clear skies! I have been hearing a lot of talk of cloudy nights lately!
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