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Found 65 results

  1. A friend ask me about filter size, I already had a Excel sheet with that calculation. But I did a new web calculator. It's the first version but it looks to calculate it correct, have a look: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-calculations/minimize-vignetting/minimize-vignetting.html It's not any high precision calculation, but gives knowledge enough I think. Too small filter gives vignetting, too big filter empty the wallet. /Lars
  2. The weather has been so bad I have had the time to finish a video on using astro filters with the Nikon Z bodies and Nikon camera lenses. There is a manual alternative to the FTZ allowing 1.25 inch filters to be fitted between camera and F-mount lenses, and for some lenses and end of lens solution make sense. FAstroTZ is described here:
  3. Hi, I'm working with some recent data of a new(ish) camera, and my Ha data is pretty good, but the oiii has these strange artifacts around the borders. If I use any kind of local normalization then it pretty much ruins most of the image, as you can see below.. First the Ha: Oiii with local normalization: oiii local normalization map, see how it fits with the artifacts: Oiii without any local normalization: These edge artifacts, could they be related to a bad filter or is it a processing artifact, has anyone seen anything similar? I am using Astro Pixel Processor for calibration and stacking.. Im kind of stumped on this one, and I am going to yank out the Oiii filter this weekend to have a looksie.
  4. Following a filter size upgrade I have an Astronomik LRGB set of filters, 1 1/4 inch. Probably around 12 years old. Kept in a filterwheel when in use but they have also been stored for a couple of years in their original box when I acquired some Baader ones to match my Baader narrowband filters. No scratches or coating issues. I have tried to show this in the images attached. Looking for £80 posted given their age. Anne
  5. I joined the forum to learn more about risks and success of filter removal for UV and IR photography. Back in 2011, one of the group's members, was trying to do just that: Unfortunately Stephen hasn't been active in the group since 2014, but the filter removal appears to have gone well (at least the S3 wasn't killed in the process). I have the same exact camera and I'm looking forward to try the same exact procedure. Does anyone has any tips on how to do this successfully/safely?
  6. Hello Everyone, I have 7x 36mm Baader filters in my QHY Filter wheel. I use a simple Orion 80ED with a manual focuser. I have two questions basically. a) How important is refocusing between the LRGB Ha OIII and SII filters? b) If important, then how do I manually calculate the offset distance between them assuming the filters aren't parfocal?
  7. Guest

    Variable star

    Hi, I am doing an end of degree project on variable stars due next thursday and London's weather does not allow finish it. I was wondering if someone would do me the favour of observing the pulsating variable star V0460 Andromeda http://variablestars.net/stars/460/ in the Johnson R filter, for a period of 1 hour and 50 minutes? please? Thanks so much!
  8. I'm happy owner of 25×100 CELESTRON binos, i want to know : a) is really an improvement to use grey filter for lunar observation ? b)is it possible to screw filter on these oculars ? Thanks for your help.
  9. Stupid question time! My 2" Altair dielectric diagonal has a thread on the tube end that inserts into my Skywatcher ST120 telescope, so if I buy a new 2" filter to use I assume that I can screw the 2" inch filter in here OK so I can then use either my 2" EP I have, or with my 1.25" adapter inserted into the diagonal also with all my 1.25" EPs to right? None my other 1.25" diagonals has a thread at that end of it, so can't test any of my 1.25" filters like this with any of my current equipment line-up,
  10. Hi, What can you do during a rainy and boring day? Yes, write something about about old project ideas that newer have been realized. For many years I have been wondering how to construct a beam splitter system to make more efficient use of exposure time when doing color or narrow band imaging. I have today written down my ideas here: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-high-efficiency-narrow-band-imaging/project-high-efficiency-narrow-band-imaging.html There are a lot of interesting links there too to read. /Lars
  11. So I am not quite total beginner to astro images, but I am not hurrying to get to telescope range due to various factors and I did not find similar topic on several first pages of search, so this topic might be best suitable here. I have a camera that has a possibility to track astro-images up to 5 minutes, which is enough for me to take the Milky Way shots and even some Nebulae, clusters and similar level images. I have moved to the location that is a more light polluted than the one I lived before (from http://darksitefinder.com/maps/world.html : I lived close to the edge of yellow and all the dark orange, the city was light orange, now I live in the middle of red, the city is gray/white). It would be not so bad, as there are some empty fields around, so no very close light sources (same as in previous location), but the Milky Way is now directly above the city with way bigger light pollution opposed to the location where I had the MW in opposite side from the city. As nearest dark location is not for everyday drive (around an hour for a bit darker place), and even in red zone I get some recognizable images, I want to continue working on my technique and started looking to Light Pollution filters (I travel to some darker areas several times a year, but not too often). I found several 100mmx100mm filter brands, and several round ones, but I found no comparisons between them and very little to no sample images or reviews: PureNight Premium Light Pollution Reduction Filter by Lonely Speck – Lonely Speck - Lonelyspeck filter at the moment unavailable NiSi NiSi Natural Night Filter for Nighttime Light NIP-100-NGT Nisi filters Haida 100x100mm/4x4" Nanopro MC Optical Glass/ HD3702 B&H Haida filters IDAS Filters and Accessories IDAS LPS-D1 (round filter) Astronomik CLS Filter (round filter) I would prefer getting 100x100mm filter, as I can use it for multiple lenses (I have 49-86 filter thread lenses), but I could live with 77mm, if it is really worth it and possible to use with step-up/down rings. Any recommendations - is it worth to get any of these, or did I miss some good one, or any reviews? Are they worth buying? Clip-in filters are not an option because of camera brand (Pentax). Also, in the future I am considering modifying this camera after I will get a newer one (http://www.spencerscamera.com/store/store_product_detail.cfm?Product_ID=25&Category_ID=1) - any recommendations which modification type to choose and why (this is totally green part for me)? Also, will the chosen LP filter work with the modification?
  12. Hi all. Pondering getting a decent OIII filter to use, but will I see any benefit really in my main ST120 frac at at which is my main scope I use? From what I've read it is 6" and above scopes that benefit from the filter, so this may show promise in my Celestron C6-N reflector perhaps. Any experience/views from anyone who may have an ST120 or C6-N scope would be welcome, and also I've heard that the astronomic OIII filter are very good, so any advice as to which are good/bad makes would be great too! Thanks! Oh! Suffer from moderate LP where I live too, and have a UHC Explore Scientific filter already.
  13. Hi, I dont understand this... The camera comes with an IR-filter, which is removable. The spec's says "IR-Cut filter: 22 mm. Can be removed to be replaced with other filters". I don't have any filter that fits there. The cam also comes with an extension tube, that only fits in the IR filter's outer thread. If I want to add e.g. a 1.25" moon filter to the cam, it does not fit in the IR-filters outer thread, and not in the filter thread of the cam either. Thus, to add another filter, the IR filter must be in place and to that you must screw the extension tube (it doesn't fit anywhere else), and to that you finally can add another 1.25" filter. Am I totally lost or has anyone solved this problem? What if I don't want to use the IR filter. /Mats
  14. Hello All, Returning to astro after a break. Is this moon filter any good? http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-2012-Crystalview-telescope-eyepiece/dp/B00A6PASTC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1385415694&sr=8-4&keywords=moon+filter+for+telescope I had a cheaper one which was awful, I don't want to be blinded; if not this could someone recommend an alternative?
  15. Hello all, last I night I give a try at Orion Nebula when the clouds were not in the way I live in a fairly light polluted city centre (with a thick orange sky glow) so I decided to buy a Baader UHC-S filter to see if it would help, so this is my first light with the UHC-S and I was chuffed! In my opinion, it's worth every cent! Normally, even when taking a lot of subs, darks and flats I end up with weird gradients, heavy noise, lack of contrast and other annoying artifacts that not even post processing can get rid of, but last night the UHC-S blessed me and with only a bunch of quick subs and darks I've finally got some decent contrast, decent colours and detail ! Again, not an Hubble grade picture and very far from those crazy 100 hours Ha-RGB stacks, but it's my first half-decent DSO image so I'm happy with it (it must have been my lucky night yesterday, as I was lucky also with Jupiter). I think it needs some more post processing as there is a bit more signal and nebulosity to squeeze out. Any comment or advise appreciated! Celestron 80ED (F/7.5) Motorised EQ5 (Rough polar alignment) 2" UHC-S Filter Nikon D7000 20 subs, 20 seconds each, ISO 1600 5 Darks Churned by DSS Squeezed by Adobe Lightroom Thanks for watching!
  16. This post is about what I did during the British Monsoon. I have not many techniques to share here. It just want to encourage others that want to be able to look at the sun with a low budget (£25) and safe Solar filter. I was able to make one filter for my scope (102mm) and two small ones for my binoculars (2x 50mm). Actually you can produce 2 sets and share the cost with a friend. Only £12.50 for a set of filters, scope and binos. Materials Baader Astrosolar Filter Film A4 size - £23 One thick cardboard - recycled One thin cardboard - recycled from filter's posting package. Bendable card - £1.29 Masking tape - daughter's school kit One A4 sheet - daughter's school kit Tools Cardboard knife Sealer tape Scissors One CD and tin 1- Cut the A4 sheet in half and use it as model to cut the thick cardboard, the thin cardboard and the baader film filter. 2- You only need to cut circles in the cardboards. They will be the film holders. You can use the film square as it is. 3- Use the CD (102mm) to draw a big circle and a can around 50mm diameter to draw the small circles. Spread the circles wisely so there is enough space for the film to cover the circle, and expands until close to the edge of the cardboard. 4- The film holder is going to be a sandwich of one thick cardboard, the thin cardboard and the film filter in the middle. 5- Before sticking the film to the holder, remember to remove the fine translucency plastic that covers the filter on the side that is not protected by the tissue paper that comes with it. 6- Cut three stripes in the bendable cardboard, two inches or 5cm each. And one stripe of one inch or 2.5 cm for the binos.Use these stripes to make a tube that will fit to the scope/ binos. Just tape it as you circle the aperture of your scope/binos. 7- Use the tapes to put together the film, film holders and tubes. 8- To avoid the filters touching each other, fit the filters in different levels in the binos objective. I already tried it and I am very happy with the result. Any question please let me know. Kind regards
  17. Aenima

    wizardHaOiii

    From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha and OIII shot of the Wizard nebula NGC7380. Processed to resemble the hubble palette colour scheme. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  18. From the album: CCD venture

    A h-alpha shot of the Wizard nebula in Cepheus. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.
  19. With the 2 Baader filters , Continuum and Polarising , that brings the price of the Lunt Solar Wedge up to about £250 - is it worth it at this point of the Solar cycle ?
  20. i was wondering if anyone had any experiences with the idas uv/ir and the idas uv/ir ha enhanced. Any advice would be appreciated about which one to use with a full spectrum camera.Thanks!
  21. I ordered a set of filters to go with my Celestron 127eq Powerseeker Telescope and noticed that a lens and the barlow that came with my telescope do not have threads that i can attach my filter to: I also noticed that some of these filters have threads on both sides except the moon filter, not sure what thats about but doesnt seem to help the situation: As far as the Barlow goes, can I just drop the moon filter into it then drop the lens over it like this?
  22. Currently when the clocks change around March/April time ive noticed my imaging and general viewing time takes a nose dive. This is mainly due to the lighter nights and not being able to stay up till 2am with going to work at 6. Would the use of a filter such as this help to extend that untill further into the year and also start earlier towards the end?
  23. Does it make any sense to shoot H-beta along H-alpha for narrowband imaging? They are both arising from the same element, although I don't know whether their ratio remains the same for all emission nebulae...
  24. I finally managed to get my dual rig working thanks primarily to @Patrick Gilliland. This meant I could try out the Chroma 3nm filter in my Moravian G2-8300 camera attached to my Williams Optics Star 71. Mount is the Mesu 200. The target is the Eastern Veil. This is 19 x 1200s (= 6 hours 20 mins) - processed primarily in PI.
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