alacant

Hi Either: The guide log is empty so difficult to help. From the little trace we can see, I'd say the polar alignment may need attention. Or: +1. Look at the images, not the numbers! Unless the stars are so fat you can't bear it... Equally, stay safe. Cheers

Hi Interesting point about this is that it's difficult to know where you're looking because when there's no moon or light pollution, you can't see constellation outlines. If you can, that means there's haze and the magnitude will be cut below 7. Nice problem to have:) Cheers, clear skies and keep safe.

https://www.preciseparts.com/ppmain/index.html Or simply replace the focuser. This would probably be easier and cheaper: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32955763408.html HTH

https://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-360-camera-angle-adjuster-rotator-with-m54-male-female-thread-r-03.html Dunno. Probably cheaper to get one made...

Yeah, it's populsr and works ok if you can get the spacing right. I found it gave astigmatic edges over DSLR sensors. The GPU (or SW aplanatic) are double the outlay but are capable of giving corner to corner without having to jump through hoops. If not, it's a simple job to move the mirrors closer. HTH

Hi. I think this is it: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-compression-ring-adapter-for-sky-watcher-refractors-m56.html In any case, measure the diameter of the thread. If it's 56mm, then that's the one. If it isn't then you know what you're looking for... HTH.

Hi. Could you post a photo? There's gotta be an adaptor methinks...

Hi Assuming you have a 2" focuser, you could use all but reducing coma correctors. The Baader Mk3, the GPU or the GSO will work fine, indeed the latter can be used as a cure when you haven't enough inward focuser travel. The commonly used sw 0.9 cc will not come to focus unless you move the mirrors closer to each other. HTH

Reverse RA does not change tracking. You have no park mode set. HTH

Hi Yeah, that's right; there's too much light. You need to be under the stars in the dark. You can connect the camera in video mode if you want to check it during the day, useful for getting close to focus on a distant object. You can do it directly in INDI or just swap the cables and use EKOS' capture. To test in daylight, just set the gain to zero. HTH

If you have not rotated the camera relative to the telescope between sessions, that's fine and probably what most of us do. If you find new dust has settled on the sensor, only then would you need to redo the flat frames. It only takes a few minutes anyway as you only need 12 or so of them. HTH

Hi. Nice image. I'm with @ebdons on the 2s+ flat frames (FF). Sometimes the screen refresh rate interferes with the shutter causing banding in the flat FF. You can check by stretching a few of the flat frames. BTW, the FF will not remove gradients but will go a long way to even out the image when you do come to process the gradient. HTH

Hi everyone Imaging alone for the first time in ages, it's strange not to have to translate every other sentence or have anyone else to blame or yell at! I managed 16 x 5 minutes frames before impatience took grip. Not ideal a 250p when you're alone, but anyway I was blessed with amazingly steady skies, albeit with some haze thrown up by the onshore easterlies. Had I not cut this short, I feel there's be more to be had in the outer bits. DUH moment: After having focused the main camera, calibrated the oag and plate solved, I realised I'd attached the camera 90º out; there are more galaxies to be had in the intended orientation. How do you remember which -according to ekos' plate solve or kstars' skychart- is 0º when you attach the camera to the focuser? I couldn't be bothered to turn the camera, re-calibrate... Anyway, without on the ground feedback or anyone to look over my shoulder, comments would be most welcome. Thanks for looking, clear skies and keep safe.

Ideal!

All non-reducing correctors are fine. The Baader MK3, the GPU, the GSO... HTH.

Hi. We started with the t-shirt method but found it hit and miss. So now use a cheap led panel. This gives far more predictable results. Exposure wise, Av should get you close with any metering. If you want to nail it, switch to M and adjust the exposure whilst looking at the histogram; get it somewhere near the centre. Slightly left of centre works well here with a 700d. To combat banding, go for at least 1s. Use grey card to dim the led panel if necessary. HTH

Hi everyone Just 6 x 5 minute frames before haze stopped play. Oh, and then the moon rose to illuminate the haze. Were it not for a big Newtonian, we'd probably have nothing. Strangely, the seeing and guiding was excellent, but when Arcturus is just about the only star left visible, probably time to surrender. Lovely cluster of galaxies -not the usual nondescript elliptical blobs-, stacked using Siril's magic performing percentile clip and rescued from the mud by StarTools. All comments, particularly when processing oxygen deprived data such as this, most gratefully received. From a sad, locked-down Alicante, thanks for looking, clear skies and keep safe.

That's a perfect choice for galaxy season and the cleanest Alnitak I've ever seen:) Great shots. Cheers.

If you can ship to Spain, I have someone who may bite. Do you have details/photos/prices? Cheers

Yes. It sums up much of what I feel too. I think big DSLR sensors with their rugged protective bodies which are designed for harsh conditions beat flimsy, temperamental cooled cameras with tiny sensors which cost three times more (catches breath!) in many respects. Cheers.

Hi. Yes, absolutely. It gives you a chance to check focus, guiding and seeing. If all is well, you can add the frames to the rest. Cheers

Hi For this one, I used StarTools. It's the quickest and best I know. AutoDev - bin -crop - wipe - Decon - colour - grain remove. In siril it's: crop - asinh transform - histogram transform - background extraction - colour calibration It's a nice image but there's not much data to be able to overcome the pollution gradient. Take more frames and you'd begin to see detail beyond that here I'm sure. Keep taking the snaps... HTH.

Hi Sorry to hear about yet another case of excessive street lighting. Anyway, perhaps no need to crop so much. I had a go at the background in Siril and GIMP but the .jpg doesn't have much to go on. I'm sure that with the linear image, you'd fare better. I sincerely hope that you succeed in getting that light removed. Good luck and HTH.

Hi everyone Full moon? Why not try some faint galaxies? This has to be the thinnest of them all. Field of view? No one laugh please; we have use of a big reflector for the weekend. Meanwhile this was the biggest we could muster. There is colour available but it means forcing it, which makes it look manipulated and takes too much time. I think the other blob in this image is quite well known. But not at this scale. Gradient galore. can't get the background:( Thanks for looking and all comments most welcome. eos 700d @ ISO800

Unless you're only intending doing video of the moon and planets, you're also going to need a coma corrector or other method to correct the field. There are no 42mm fit correctors AFAIK. The items to which I link are economical and are always useful to have around or buy a t to 1 1/4 adaptor and simply either cut the tube or use longer primary mirror bolts. HTH.