Peter Drew

Removing the screw completely to check for damage and using lubrication are both good suggestions. To these I would add, check the stiffness of the altitude axis by manually rocking the housing, in many cases this axis is overtightened by the manufacturer and is a significant contribution to the bent screw syndrome. 🙂

6" or 8" Dobsonian, forget the rest! 🙂

There is no cure for aperture fever but it can be relieved temporarily by buying a larger telescope. I did a casual "shoot-out" last night observing Mars with a150ED, an ancient C8, a Meade 7" Maksutov and a Meade 16" SCT. The 16" gave marginally the best view probably due to the larger, brighter exit pupil which favours the 70+ eyesight. 🙂

Celestron C6 SCT. 4.54kg ? 🙂

Hello Robin, yes I agree. My posts have been directed to the Dobsonian design which I believe to be the OP's best option. 🙂

With respect, this can be done successfully with a Dobsonian mounted Newtonian. Commercially through the Orion "Intelliscope" system or an inexpensive DIY modification as outlined on this forum a few days ago. 🙂

There once was a King who ordered some new clothes. 🙂

I agree, I actually always say that JD popularised the design rather than invented it. I had dinner with him in San Francisco and at home with me when he visited the UK. A rather unusual man! 🙂

I understand, but unfortunately a budget of 300 euros will not give you both of your hopes, it will be one or the other. It is possible, at little expense, to convert a Dobsonian to "push-to" capability, might be a good compromise. 🙂

I was thinking of a new 6" Dobsonian or preowned 8" Dobsonian. Either would meet your visual requirements. Neither would have goto, so what!, the objects are in the same place whatever means are used to find them. Learning one's way round the sky is one of the most satisfying pursuits. 🙂

I think your budget will mean a Newtonian reflector if it is going to meet your planetary and deep space requirement. You may have luck with a preowned telescope. 🙂

I've built several Newtonian reflecting terrestrial binoscopes. Just purchase a 90 degree erecting diagonal and turn it parallel to the main tube and horizontal. The only tricky bit is to move the primary mirror forward to gain enough back focus. You will need to use a minimum of around a 25mm focal length eyepiece or the shadowing of the secondary will be obtrusive. 🙂

For what it's worth, as far as I'm concerned, if any form of art has to painstakenly be explained to convey the message, then it has lost its way. 🙂

Does nothing for me but I'm not an imager. looks like a beginners first attempt. On more worthy awards, Alexandra Hart (Montana on this forum) topped the solar section of the competition. 🙂

Double glazing = double image. 🙂🙂

A session tonight from 10pm until midnight. Good transparency but very wobbly images, Jupiter just a couple of fuzzy belts, Saturn a little better with glimpses of the CD and Mars latterly probably the best I've seen so far this apparition, obvious SPC and a grey banding to the lower disc. Tweaked the collimation on the 16" SCT and the image shaded that of its SW 150ED finder. Tried a number of filters, the only one that showed any improvement was an IR one. 🙂

Thanks for the consideration JOC, this wasn't one of ours. We had one white EQ6Pro and three black standard EQ6 stolen. These and all the other instruments remain undiscovered. ☹️

Hope it belonged to someone on SGL, Good result!. 🙂

Wedge some shims under the door to lift it to touch the top of the frame, then fix the hinges. The door will always drop a bit when the shims are removed but not enough to foul the bottom. 🙂

A rather odd appearance, looks like residue from a previous clean. SCT correctors, over time, tend to get "milky" due to outgassing of the factory internally applied paint but this is usually more uniform over the complete surface. I doubt whether it would have a significant impact on imaging, something to consider if selling in the future. 🙂

Not necessarily in respect of an ED standard of telescope as these are capable of good performance at both low and high magnifications, this is largely what you pay for. Planetary observation calls for enough aperture and sufficient optical quality to stand high magnifications, a 120ED conforms to this. 🙂

Your "cheapest" route into solar Ha viewing will be a used 40mm-50mm dedicated solar telescope. 🙂

As Louis D says, mask off the broken area and give it a try except I would rather black out the lines which would result in a Newtonian spider effect. The optical power of the corrector, although essential is fairly weak and the damage may be less severe than would appear. I doubt whether a replacement corrector plate would be perfectly compatible with a C8 of that vintage as I'm pretty sure in those days the optical components were individually matched. In any event, as mentioned a used one from the period would be cheaper to buy, I bought a complete 1980's C8 for £250 and the optics are excellent. I think you have already decided to invest in a Newtonian which is likely to better suit your imaging purpose. 🙂

What an innings and what a scorecard! RIP JD

The Sun did appear again late afternoon for a more extended view, not much of a prospect for a continuation today. 🙂