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  1. Hello Kens, I was using the ekos mount control arrow buttons
  2. I checked it and no nothing changed; I was doing some test shots and while polar aligning with the PoleMaster, it did it again. I shutdown the mount, put it manual in home position and then I noticed that the RA setting circle was no longer well positioned. Re-positioned that and every went ok from there. Fixed, but I can't explain why
  3. That's a good idea - I'll check it over the weekend, thanks!
  4. Hello, I recently have reinstalled all my gear and wanted to align the guider scope with the main scope using the attached cameras. Here's my problem, and how I reproduced it (twice only, as I don't want to wreck my equipment) Running kstars (Version 3.5.0 Stable)/ekos (INDI Library: 1.8.7) on astroberry (Linux astroberry 5.10.11-v7l+ #1399) Mount connected to astroberry via USB port Start ekos from within kstars Connect EQ6-R mount, main camera and guide camera Start ekos mount control Slew declination so that scope is +- horizontal roughly pointed at a
  5. Hello Vlaiv, what you're explaining here, isn't that what Siril does with it's "Photometric calibration" functionality? AstroRookie
  6. Hello Michael, I wish I could not care about the weather, but since I dropped my C8, I leave the new scope permanently outside under a cover. So even during the day I depend on the weather to thinker with it. I'm working on a solution for this, but will not be before mid 2021. An other thing is that I have already removed the camera from the focuser to check the coma corrector, so would not be the same camera orientation. But what puzzles me now is that some sources say flats must be the same iso as the subs, others say you must have an exposure between 0.5s and 2s and one can chang
  7. Hello, having read this I presume my diy flatbox is a bit too bright, and maybe I should lower the iso for my flats; I used the same iso as my subs, so maybe next time I lower the iso and calibrate then with flat darks at the same iso as my flats. And this more or less confirms it; exposure should be around 0.5s to 2.5s, and one should first try to adjust the brightness rather then the exposure. But unfortunately according to yr.no the next imaging session will not be for this year. One must be insane to try astrophotography as a hobby living in a windy shithole by the Northsea
  8. Hello Michael, when taking my flats, the camera was in manual mode. I took some "test" flats to have the histogram +- in the left half. I took two sets one at 1/500s - histogram in the middle, an other set at 1/250s - histogram more to the left. You mention an exposure time of 1s, tried that as well, but my test flat was overexposed. Do you want me to post a link to one of my subs or to one of my flats? AstroRookie
  9. Hello, when applying the flats taken in my last session (to find out what is causing the strange diffraction spikes) with Siril, the final stacked result still shows the vignetting and the dust spots. I also did the whole preprocessing with Nebulosity, same result. I took the flats as follows: same iso as my subs camera and focus not touched I use a homemade flatbox combined with the a white t-shirt with Ekos took test shots till the histogram was half-way to the left checked all my flats, they all show vignetting and the same dust spots as in my subs
  10. Hello malc-c, thank you for the elaborated answer, but I don't think I have the courage to go that way, being afraid that I will introduce more problems. I will however follow the advice you gave earlier, that is removing the corrector and see what that gives, if that is ok then we know it's the corrector. I didn't think of that last Tuesday because I suspected that having centered the central boss would have solved the issue. Let's wait for the next clear skies, and thanks again. AstroRookie
  11. Hello, did the same exercise, 60s subs of M52 last Tuesday, with these differences: new moon no cooling device attached to the camera But same result, still the same weird diffraction spikes and as it was a new moon it was even more prominent. Due to the fact that there's a spectral separation visible, I suspect it's an optical element (mirror?, coma corrector?) that is having an issue, But how to find out? On the other hand why are the spikes not orthogonal, the spider vanes are. I have this scope only since April this year, and it was ok, I'm getting rather desperate wi
  12. Budgie1, you're my hero! I removed the extension (I needed for the previous guidescope), "copied" the settings as shown in your picture and bingo! Stars all over place! A great thanks, from AstroRookie
  13. Thanks for the help, I'll have a look - next weekend probably, they announce dry weather during the day. AstroRookie
  14. Hello, I'm getting desperate over this hobby (but I refuse to give up); with every change new problems set in. I purchased a SVBONY SV106 (60mm - 240mm) guide scope to replace a 80mm - 400mm scope, I was using as a guide scope which was installed on the Orion 8 tube rings. I replaced the finder scope with the guide scope. First issue balancing but that one I sorted out. Then I tried to focus the ASI120MM with the new guide scope. For the old one (80x400) , I needed 2 extensions (in fact the extensions are low cost barlows from which I removed the plastic lens) to get focus. To align
  15. Hello, finally some nice weather over the weekend. As the scope is permanently outside (under a cover) it has to be nice weather to do the check ups suggested here. I checked the following: spider vanes: they ware orthogonal spider vanes are bleck spider vanes were not tilted secondary mirror back and side is black re-did the collimation as outlined by astro baby mirror was not 100% centered, so adjusted that with the spider vanes the laser beam for the secondary mirror collimation was slightly outside the donut: adjusted that (but I admit
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