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Found 46 results

  1. I continue with my Star Adventurer experiments how to get the most out of it. I can notice when I taking 120 seconds exposures with my Star Adventurer mount and the 150 mm camera lens I sometimes get elonged stars. And with that long exposures also the brighter stars oversaturate. How will my equipment perform if I take more and shorter exposurers, can my Canon 6D handle that? It has relative low readout noise at higher ISO settings but limited dynamic range then. Here I have done two tests to compare: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-dynamics/tutorial-dynamics.html At least in this case I feel the camera can handle the shorter exposure and still have good dynamics. I live close to a big city, but I have found two places out in the east close to the coast where I have a relative dark sky. With my small Star Adventurer I can easily go out there and doing astrophotographing. Almost all my earlier AP have been done with a very lightpolluted sky. /Lars
  2. Now the dark season has started for us who live in Sweden. Then we must have all our equipment in top condition. I have one mini mount, the Star Adventurer, I'm very satisfaid with it. But you can always get it a little bit better. One small problem I have is that the altitude lock of the wedge slips. Maybe others of you also have this problem? Here I have some photos and my attempt to get it better: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-star-adventurer-modify-wedge/project-star-adventurer-modify-wedge.html I will test if my modifications work in reality next clear sky. /Lars
  3. My first ever M31 ! For us in NZ this object is a real challenge as it never rises more than a few degrees above the horizon. This is actually as high as it gets and I have included a wide field shot to demonstrate its position at the moment. Coupled with fairly ordinary seeing I’m really rather proud of my first attempt. It really tested my polar alignment and my excellent star adventurer Mount. There is a nasty gradient and it’s a bit brown but apart from that I can see dust lane ! I’m still saving for pixinsight as I suspect there maybe more info in this image. All comment and criticism is welcomed. Cheers, Andy Canon 6d 75-300mm @ 300mm Iso 4000 32X120 seconds ( 1 hour 4 minutes total integration) 15 darks 20flats 20 bias Processed in photoshop and Lightroom
  4. Hi everyone, I recently decided to get a 70-200 f2.8 lens or similar (liek 80-200 nikkor) to mount on my Nikon D3300 and Star Adventurer, because as a landscape photographer I feel I will use way more a tele lens than a telescope. It will be a graduation present, so I hope no budget limit. My question is: which lens to choose? In order to capture some extra details I'll most likely add a teleconverter 2x if the choice will be a 70-200, otherwise I'm considering a 100-400 Sigma or Tamron but I can't find anything about how they perform. Thanks for your advices.
  5. Hi, Last night when we was out in the night to do astro photographing I got problem with my Star Adventurer mount. The friction coupling in RA axis got stuck and I have difficulties to aim the camera to the object. Today I have dismantled the mount to find what the problem is with it. I got to repair it, I took photos from my disassembling and repair that I think can be interesting for others to look at and read. Here is the link to my homepage: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-star-adventurer-part2-repair/project-star-adventurer-part2-repair.html Have any other of you had a simular problem with the Star Adventurer mount? BR Lars
  6. Hi all, First post here, and I'm pretty new to AP, just picked up a Star Adventurer mount a couple months ago and have been happily playing around with it with DSLR and various lenses and a 72mm Sky-Watcher refractor. I'm new to the whole setup process, and I'm trying to do a decent job of leveling the tripod/mount, polar alignment, and I should probably think more about balancing the weight of things. I've gotten some decent shots, like 60-120 second subs with up to 300mm lens. My last time out I was getting star trails at 200mm and 15 second exposures, which could have been just a sloppy polar alignment, but today out of curiosity I looked through the polar scope and rotated the RA axis 360 degrees, and I saw that the target circle jumped a few times. I'm guessing that the target circle should appear not to move while the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12 would rotate around as I rotate the RA axis. So my guess is that the polar scope would need to be calibrated?
  7. Greetings everyone. Few months ago I wrote a post about a small refractor to mount on a Star Adventurer, but I'm now considering fast tele lens like the Nikon 80-200 f2.8. My question is: what is the best tele lens to get pictures of Andromeda galaxy, Orion, Soul, Hearth nebula and stuff like these? If I'd pick a 70-200 f2.8 lens, can I plug a teleconverter 2x to get better crop without losing details? I've attached a picture taken with my Nikon D3300 and 18-105 kit lens, as you can see it's quite small (forget about the quality, it was also quite foggy back then). Thanks in advance.
  8. Hi all, Thought I'd share the clip I designed to fit a Right Angle Finder to the polar scope on my Star Adventurer mount. I designed it to work on my Neewer RA Finder but it could possibly work with similar ones (that have the removable adaptor plates for various camera types). My finder came with a few different adaptor plates and I chose the metal screw-together type which was labeled for use with the older Nikon F series cameras. As you can see from the photos, this just screws into the printed clip allowing you to leave it in place on the Polar Scope but remove the RA Finder easily. It is best oriented with the clips at the top and bottom (rather than on the side). I've made it available for download from Thingiverse, there's a printable version of the adaptor plate on there too (along with instructions and pics) should you need it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2762334
  9. Scooot

    Veil widefield

    I took this with my unmodded canon, 135mm & CLS filter at f4 iso400, 40 minutes worth of 30 second images on the Star Adventurer. Fairly short exposures in an attempt to avoid over exposing stars, wasn’t sure how much of the veil I’d see but it’s there My there are an awful lot of stars in this area, which illustrates how faint the veil is if nothing else. I’d like to try again wth longer exposures to compare. I’m still learning Anyway, a different fov, hope you like it.
  10. Maxrayne

    M31

    Messier 31 Andromeda Galaxy Distance from Earth - approx 2.5 million light years After spending ages getting a decent polar alignment, the clouds were on their way in so I only had a small window of opportunity remaining. This was my first real run with the new setup (minus the ST80 and ZWO ASI120 as i was having issues there) and I almost gave up. SO glad I didn't!! Focus was off a bit though I think and I've definitely over-processed EXIF: Nikon D5300 270mm f / 5.6 @ ISO 800 21 x 30 second subs Bortle 5 Stacked in Sequator. Very quick minor crop and global edits in LightRoom. No darks/flats/offsets
  11. It took me a while to set up and polar align my star adventurer and then frame and focus with backyard Eos. I set the backyard Eos in action and then nipped to my local for a couple of jars .....by the time I got home after an evening of conviviality and nice beer I was too ‘relaxed’ to sort out my dark frames.....so here is a stack of 30 X 180 seconds lights taken with my modified canon 40d with a stock 75/300mm lens set at 75mm, 30X180 seconds, f4.5, iso 1600, stacked in DSS then processed in photoshop and Lightroom. I always welcome comment and criticism..... .I know that this will benefit from some calibration frames and I imagine it would look nice processed in pixinsight.....am busy filling my piggy bank
  12. Greetings everyone, I am a student with a recent strong interest in astrophotography. I currently use a Nikon D3300 and I plan to get for my graduation a small refractor and a tracker mount, most likely a star adventurer. My question is, which is the best/most stuitable apochromatic refractor to use with the SA? The budget would be around 1000€ for all the setup. Thank you in advance and clear skies!!
  13. Last night I finally managed to get out and have a go at tracking for the first time with the SW SA. DEFINITELY need a ball head... Once I figured out that I should be leaving the latitude adjustment alone (yes I'm THAT much of a noob at tracking and polar alignment), about the only target in my FOV was M31, and even that was about to vanish behind a roof! But I did manage a few 30 second subs before it disappeared. Could've probably gotten longer exposures but the intervalometer wasn't setup and I was out of time. But I'm happy enough for a first time out. The attached is just the test image from last night. About half a dozen subs, Canon 550D, ISO 3200, F/4, cropped down from 55mm Oh, I did notice that whatever way up I put my PA scope, it was upside down...any ideas?
  14. Hi, I will be the first to admit I'm a complete novice when it comes to equatorial mounts but I am hoping to find the advice I need on here as scouring the net for the last few days has brought me no joy. I recently bought a Sky Watcher Star Adventurer Mount with the Astro Bundle (equatorial wedge, mounting plate, 1KG counter weight and shaft) I am primarily going to use this for wide field as this is what the product does best, but one of the reasons I bought the Adventurer is that it is advertised as being able to handle a 5KG payload, and as I also own a Sigma 150-600mm lens I was hoping to be able to mount this and crack at shooting at longer focal lengths. I don't expect the results to be amazing, and I do expect to throw a lot of the subs away! but I still want to give it a try. My setup entails: Sony A7R2 - 625g Sigma 150-600 - 1930g Manfrotto XPRO Ball Head - 500g Plus mounting bracket for Star Adventurer All in all this weighs in at just over 3kg, so tops 3.5kg with bracket. Still under the 5kg payload... But I cannot counterbalance the setup with the weight supplied with the Star Adventurer! it is WAY too heavy on the camera side - it just doesn't balance at all... I've even tried removing the screw on the shaft to slide the weight as far down as it can go but still grip, and it's still way off being anywhere near balanced. It is advertised as being able to balance a 5KG (or 11lb) payload with this weight and shaft setup... as I said I don't expect it to be perfect and I know you should never overload a mount but I thought being 1.5Kg under the threshold would at least give me a chance of being able to balance in sufficiently. As I said I'm a complete novice so apologies for my naivety if it's a simple fix?! but when you counterbalance a setup you should be able to turn the mount 90 degrees and the equipment sits happily in the equilibrium... correct? but physics says this just isn't going to balance without adding more weight to the shaft, which will surely overload the mount? Any advice on this would be great. Thanks, Nick
  15. Due to lack of time to do astronomy I am selling my Star Adventurer bundle. Bought it Oct last year from FLO. Been out few times but it deserves someone who will be able to get most of this great little mount. It comes with original packaging and as extra I will add ball head for free. I am looking for £215 shipped or £200 collected from SE Essex area. https://goo.gl/photos/kUDeKzNKRtrsTY1GA Thanks for looking Adam
  16. My star adventurer setup has looked like this since I got my star adventurer: The tripod I used was not stable enough and I felt like it was the reason of not being able to get good enough PA. I had to sit on the ground to look through the polar scope (not that fun to do on wet grass), and when I put the wedge and camera back on the tripod after doing PA, I suspect the tripod lean back a little messing up PA. I have just been to USA and Canada, where I bought a Manfrotto 055XPRO3 and a Manfrotto 496 RC2 ballhead. I certainly paid for it but I am very happy with my purchase. The tripod feels a lot more study and solid, and so does the ballhead. Because of the ballhead, I can also use the star adventurer without the wedge and counterweights. Overall very happy with the look of my setup, and I am very satisfied with my purchase. The tripod is so solid and stable that I can extend the legs when using it (not fully though, that would be stupid), and now I only have to sit on a knee to look through the polar scope. Clear skies! Victor Boesen
  17. FLO delivered a Star Adventurer and Fotomate VT-680-222R Extra Heavy-Duty mount to me in record time last week. This is one of the most interesting, versatile and fun pieces of astro gear that I've bought to date. I wanted to get into a bit of leisurely wide-field photography without the hassle of setting up one of my mounts (Celestron AVX or NEQ6) and heard this mount performed really well. I bought the full kit with an additional ball mount so that I could put both my Canon 500d and ASI120MC on it. First - on receiving it during a rare sunny afternoon I realised I could put my Lunt50Ha on it :-) making it even easier to do solar imaging/observing. And tonight I used it for the first time with the Canon and ASI - I captured a 15 minute sub with the Canon and did some time lapse stuff (not yet processed with the ASI120MC) It was a lot of fun and totally hassle free :-) Highly recommended. David
  18. As a rookie astrophotographer, I have recently acquired a star adventurer mount. Seeing the port marked "Auto Guider" it sure seems to me that the manufacturer intended the mount to be used this way. But the documentation on this capability or connection is non existent. I bumped into something called phd2..it seems there is hope. Do I need a guide scope or can the mount take direction directly from phd2? Obviously i am somewhat confused. Any guidance out there? Thanks in advance.
  19. Well its taken some time to get to grips with Pixinsight (trial) but im over the moon with the result. 27 x 60 second subs on Nikon D810 with 70-200mm F4 with darks, flats and bias in a light polluted sky at 200mm (I drizzled 2x2). cant wait to get the next one now :-) clear skies, Dan
  20. Here is my intended setup for widefield but for now until I get the hang of it, I will just use the mount and camera. This setup includes Canon 1100D with RDF mounted to the hotshoe, 9x50 finder modified to a guidescope, QHY5L-II as the guide camera run from a Packard Bell netbook. Lenses are Vivitar Series 1 200mm f3, Panagor 135mm f2.8, F.Zuiko MC 50mm 1.8 and a Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 ultra wide lens. The whole purpose of this setup is portability due to living in a flat and I find my CG5-GT to bulky to cart around. Excuse the poor quality pics as they were taken on my phone.
  21. The skies were much better on Saturday so I had another go at capturing different exposures. 73 10 secs, thirty 30 secs & 15 1 minutes but the minutes were no good, mist or cloud ruined them. All at ISO 800. I used Pixinsights HDR composition to combine the stacked 10 seconds with the 30 seconds. I'm not sure to what degree it improved the 30 seconds on their own, or if I'd just stacked them all together. Anyway, Aldebaran was at 53 degrees when I started at around 10 pm so the light pollution wasn't anywhere near as bad as when took the previous image. There are also many more stars. I'm still a bit perplexed by the colours of a few of the brighter stars opposite Aldebaran which are clearly described as yellow/orange and appear so in some other images. Maybe its just my skies? Anyway here it is I used my Takumar 135mm with the 450D on the Star Adventurer again
  22. From the album: Slynxx Learning Curve

    First proper try at capturing M31 30 x 75 sec Light Frames 10 x Dark Frames Canon 700D (Un-modded) Canon EF 75-300 ISO 1600 Stacked using Photoshop & the Median stacking process.
  23. Please help!! As said in the title I know that this question gets asked a lot of times. I want to know what to do. My confirmation(don't know if that's what you call it in English) is in 59 days, and I need some help whether to wish me one thing or another. What am i looking for?: I want to get into "serious" astrophotography, however I still don't want to stop doing visual. I have a scope now that needs to get swapped out(bresser 150/1400, poor quality) but I don't have the money to have both a scope for astrophotography and visual. I was thinking about the star adventurer mount(I have a nikon d3300+kit lens and 50mm 1.8+a sturdy video-tripod) because of its easy setup and portability. Then I could put a skywatcher dobsonian on my list as well to get a better visual scope. I think that this would be a good way to start, but I am 14 years old and I don't have the money to buy equipment all the time. So the problem in my case would be that I wouldn't be able to afford a real mount and scope for astrophotography right after I get the star adventurer and a dobsonian unless I save up money for a long time and get broke right after buying the equipment. This leads me into my next "solution". Then I was thinking about selling my visual scope and putting the eq5 pro on the list instead. Then I don't know whether to chose the 130p-ds, 150p-ds or the evostar 80ed to go with the eq5 pro. I am really blown away by the quality and images by the evostar 80ed, and I think that it's a really good beginner astrophotography scope. Or is it? It costs a lot more than the 130p/150p-ds does, and the reflectors would also be a better visual scope wouldn't they? of course I still want to have a visual and an imaging scope, but if I chose one of the reflectors then I guess I wouldn't need both right now, would I? I want to make the right choice both mount and scope, and if the evostar 80ed+eq5 pro is the best choice then according to you, then I would just have to buy a dobsonian as well(which wouldn't be that big of a deal if just the evostar 80ed+eq5 pro is the best choice). Hope that you want to spend some time reading this, and feel free to ask me about anything! Victor Boesen
  24. In the absence of any other EQ mounts currently, and with a desire to have a session on Jupiter without constant nudging of the scope, I thought I would give this a go. I found a dovetail with 1/4" hole in the centre, and took the two additional weights off my Vixen to achieve balance, which I managed. Even with the Leica Zoom in a x2.5 PowerMate it still balanced. The scope is an FC-100D which is around 2.8kg for the OTA but probably around 5kg fully loaded, possibly a little more. Now, I'm not claiming it is the steadiest when focusing or changing target, but it is tracking accurately enough for visual, and I'm enjoying the steady view. It takes a few seconds to settle down, and would be no good in a wind but it's fine for tonight's still conditions. Im actually a little confused where the flex comes from. The mount itself is very solid, as is the EQ6 tripod and pillar so it can only be the Wedge. Perhaps with a stronger alternative it would be more stable? Anyway, can't complain as it is pushing the weight and it is coping fine. Hoping for some fine views of GRS later.
  25. The Milky Way and a hint of aurora showing in the starry skies over the largest expanse of blanket bog in Europe (the Flow Country of Caithness & Sutherland). Single two minute exposure (f3.5; 16mm FL; ISO 1600) captured using an astro modded Canon 600D on a Star Adventurer mount........... A fabulous scenic dark location - 21.7 on a Unihedron light meter. This was the third night in a row I got to enjoy views of the aurora
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