Dr_Ju_ju

If so, I stand corrected.....

I know Chris stated that it was a Synscan aka Skywatcher, but the board plainly states that it is for a Celestron, so he may have plugged the wrong controller into the wrong mount ???

It's difficult to make out any markings, but for a capacitor to blow (C55), means it must have had a significant voltage applied across it, which then leads on to what U9 is, regulator\mosfet ?? which ultimately may be the main culprit...

I've not tried or even closely looked into running MinWin on even Win10 IoT core. These are very cut down versions of windows targeted at doing specific jobs, but they are rumoured to be able to do most things their big brother can, and will run on non-Intel platforms. Even if it was just able to act as DSLR camera client to the Indi master server, then it may be worth looking at, but I suspect that it wouldn't work as most of the graphics sub system is missing...

I did say for a try out, not for a full blown running system.....

I use Mint (https://linuxmint.com/) a nice easy distro to get you into Linux, but will do almost everything that we use Windows for

? well done

Yeah, DSLR's use GPhoto which is a generic driver, which is trying to be all things to all DSLR cameras, not a good solution, unless your camera happens to fit.... The ZWO support, on the other hand, is very good, & when I've had the chance to connect everything together, all has worked flawlessly.

Put the Linux on a bootable USB stick, you can at least try it out & then when finished pull it out & reboot back into windows.....

Something to aim for, well done

Ubuntu Mate on the Rock, but I'm not using a DSLR, but ASI1600MM & 120MM cameras. It's a real frig switching stuff around at the mo when the weather is soooo good & I've got everything setup on my garden pier & working fine (its a Win10\SGPro\PHD2 etc.)

It's what I'm doing, but then again, I've cleared\removed a compost bin at the end of the garden, leaving just enough space for a small Obsy…… Ohhhh more back breaking work.

Stop thinking, Make a Jug of Pimms, go & relax, you've earned it ...

Go for it, I'd also recommend getting either a 32 or 64 GB eMMC module, or even stretching to the SSD module for booting & keeping the software on, no need for fiddly micro SD cards. And it runs on 12volts......

Yes it runs everything, including Kstars, which means I only need to Xrdp to the system to control & run, so that I only need to run power & network to the mount.... The picture shows the 64 on the right and its 250GB disk (for picture temp storage) next to it, then a USB3 hub. I found a neat mounting solution on Thingiverse, where all the items are fitted to individual carriers onto a standard DIN rail (the rail found in fuse boxes etc.) which I'm finding a lot easier to mount & test before fitting into its final enclosure.

I'm currently building a traveling setup based on a Pine64 ~ Rock64, which has more than enough grunt to run everything under Indi\Kstars... I also see that they are about to release a newer version which has even more of everything https://www.pine64.org/?page_id=61454, all in a very neat package. Granted its more expensive than a Pi3 but everything, including image control will run on the one board.

Stash, why are you so against people soldering ?? You've said you can't solder for toffee, but given a morning, I probably could teach even you to solder... (I used to train "supposed" wire-people for the BBC).

Good Luck, if you need any help, just shout, especially when it comes time to program the Arduino Nano.

1... Yes 2... The parts are fairly common & usually available off eBay UK, so relatively quick delivery. 3... Depending on what scope\focuser\cameras etc. you intend to drive, the motor should be ok, but you will probably need to use micro-stepping (setup in configuration) and\or will have to have coil power on. As I use planetary geared motors, I don't have to keep the motor power on, which helps keeping the DRV8825 cool, and so doesn't require a heatsink.

Yes, it uses the USB connector on the Nano board (long thin sub-board with black square just above it)

Not that I know of, as that would break Rob's copyright. I build\use the DRV8825-HW203-Full systems boards with separate display\nudge switches (not needed if fully automated). I've etched my own PCB's but I'm currently trying out some Aisler boards, see picture. My setup is the one to the left with display temperature probe etc. an Aisler board is on the right. The best place to start is to have a read through the docs, decide what you need & then source the components. There is very little soldering to do, all the interconnecting leads are RJ11 (motor) or RJ45 (display). LETS MAKE A DRV8825 HW203 FULL myFocuserPro2 Controller.pdf myFocuserPro2 v291.pdf

What we are talking about here are self build systems. Most can be 'knocked-up' on Veroboard, but I know for Rob Browns system (linked above), the boards can be ordered from aisler.net ( https://aisler.net/brown_rb/my-project-repository/myfocuser-drv8825-hw203-mmtfbt ) 3 boards for 31 euros.... Another £20 - £30 of components plus a stepper motor & you will have a working system that can be used for auto focusing in SGPro etc....

I know Gina likes these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-Stepper-Motor-with-ULN2003-Driver-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-UK-Seller-New/191457771129?hash=item2c93c5be79:g:xnYAAOxy4eJTMYiA but I prefer Nema 17's e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nema-17-Stepper-Geared-Motor-27-1-Planetary-Gearbox-0-4A-CNC-Robot-3D-Printer/122598500009?epid=1044827377&hash=item1c8b70a6a9:g:WD8AAOSwf~9ZaIoa

Search for TechyDave's build here or there are a few on Sourceforge e.g. https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/?source=directory I usually find the most difficult part is making brackets to attach the motors to the focuser, the electronics, for me, are the easy part.

I'm allergic to the little blighters & blow up like a balloon, so hopefully you have fended them all off.....