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Everything posted by Jokehoba

  1. Exactly. Watching the stack build in real-time during an imaging session with DSS Live is fun and exciting. I enjoyed the interactive star alignment process of Nebulosity (a bit nerdy, perhaps?🤪). In PixInsight, I like the way you drag a process onto an image to apply it, and other 'interactive' implementations (e.g., use of the scroll wheel and button). Plus, the batch processing and EZ Processing Suite scripts are a time saver. I enjoy using it.
  2. The limiting factor is the 20A breaker to protect the cable, which can carry 25A. So no limit to the number of sockets as long as the total current isn't exceeded.
  3. Is your hard disk a spinning disk (if so, do you know the rpm?) or an SSD or both? There are PixInsight preferences (Edit > Global Preferences > Directories and Network) which set the location for temporary swap files. Make sure the swap files are on the SSD. John
  4. Fantastic. Love wide-field views.
  5. Too many process icons perhaps?😁 It has grown from an original DSLR workflow to now include NB processing. I don't process nearly as aggressively as I did with DSLR data, so many process are no longer used. But I keep them just in case...
  6. Hi there, I see there is an astronomy society in Goole. Closer than York. http://www.astronomyclubs.co.uk/Clubs/Details.aspx?ClubId=251 John
  7. This may be useful: As others have said. getting an EQ-Direct cable is well worth it.
  8. Craig Stark alluded to this in a presentation about image processing (https://stark-labs.com/craig/resources/Articles-&-Reviews/RTMC_2015.pdf), page 64! He states that a BPM is 'Useful on DSLRs where pixel model doesn’t entirely hold.' I had assumed this was a general rule for DLSRs and always used a BPM instead of darks as it meant I only needed to take lights/flats each session. However, I realise he might not have meant it as applying to all DSLRs...🙄 John
  9. I have a similar setup at the moment - ASI1600 + filter wheel + ZS71. I imaged on Sunday night and took flats on Monday morning around 10am (still about freezing). My flats looked just like yours with a big dark circle in the middle. However my issue was condensation - either on the ASI1600 window or the rear of the Ha filter. I got a hairdryer to warm up the filter wheel/top of the camera, set the camera to expose for 1s continuously and watched the dark area disappear! Got perfect flats after I let it all stabilise for a few minutes. What was the temperature when you were taking your flats? John
  10. Maybe ask your question on the PHD 2 forum together with a copy of your GiudeLog? They are usually pretty good. https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!forum/open-phd-guiding John
  11. I almost gave up in 2013 when I got my first 'serious' mount. Wanting to get into photography, I intended to buy a Skywatcher HEQ5 but fell for Meade's hyped LX80! After spending every hour of clear sky from February to August trying to get the darned thing to guide, I nearly gave up in absolute frustration. But a second-hand NEQ6 became available and I have enjoyed the hobby ever since.
  12. When I first started using PixInsight, I also had issues with star detection. I recall the key is the RANSAC tolerance /iterations values. As Harry Page says "Experiment!" These are the settings I use and haven't changed them for several years. I now tend to use the Batch Preprocessing script simply for calibration and continue manually with StarAlignment, Normalisation, Image Integration and Drizzle to complete the stack. John
  13. I too have had issues with flats using this camera. I've found that shorter flat exposure gives more consistent results. I prefer to get under 1s.
  14. I think you could simplify your initial pre-processing... Calibrate all subs as RGB and then extract the red channel, and stack only that. Even with 'weighting', the contributions of both B and G channels would be very small compared to R.
  15. I would say yes, keep using it. Your camera mod has extended the IR/UV range but you are probably mainly interested in the improved hydrogen-alpha response. So the filter will continue to cut the UV. John PS I am assuming this is the filter you have:
  16. A good starting point would be to get hold of Steve Richards book https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html. With regard to the moon (great pic by the way), you could get greater magnification using the eyepiece projection technique (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/tele-camera-adaptor-for-eyepiece-projection-astrophotography.html), say with a 25mm eyepiece. You might struggle using that 6mm eyepiece with EPP. Your issue with blurred stars could be your polar alignment. John
  17. Great that you are starting your journey into astrophotography. You'll have lots of fun, lots of challenges and not a few frustrations along the way - but it's well worth it! I can see that some of your stars are already trailing, so would recommend reducing your exposure time per frame, rather than increasing it (at least not until you are using a guider). You will be much better collecting many more frames and stacking them to increase your total exposure unguided. That will help with the noise too. Certainly, as advised, you will have better signal when the moon is out of the way. Also, you may find ISO 1600 is the optimum ISO for the 1100D (https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/167076-the-noise-produced-by-a-canon-1100d-at-various-iso-settings-and-temperatures/) . See also https://ideiki.com/astro/EOS.aspx Great first image - better than mine! Well done. John
  18. Best of luck...but I'd still recommend fitting the Baader filter.
  19. OK, I stand corrected wrt full spectrum. It was several years ago that I did my Canon mod (as per Gary Honis' guide), and I substituted the stock filter with the Baader ACF. He states that the reason to replace the filter was to restore auto-focus capabilty as well as blocking 'higher infrared wavelengths that cause poor focus and bloated stars with refractor telescopes and camera lenses.'
  20. The Baader filter is designed to extend the IR range enough to allow transmission of Ha while still blocking UV/IR at the extremes. @barkis is correct. Simply removing the stock filter without putting another in it's place would be a 'full-spectrum' mod and would require an external filter to block unwanted UV/IR.
  21. Could it be a faulty connector? Is it shorting somewhere? It is curious that trying a different machine still has the same issue, the common thing being the cable itself. Beginning to sound like a hardware problem...
  22. I too had issues, but all is working in Win10 now. It is important that when you uninstall the drivers you delete them from the disk before you re-install the one you want to try. Otherwise Windows simply finds the old driver again and updates it. If it errors in Device manager, it won't work in EQMOD, so concentrate on Device Manager first.
  23. I'm heading that route, having ordered a ZWO ASI1600MM... I've also tried blending Ha (as luminance) into DSLR RGB but not very successfully - NB and RGB don't mix well And if you are a member of Worcester AS, and have been at the Christmas quiz in Bromsgrove in the last few years, we may have even met!
  24. A DSLR may not be the camera of choice but quite pleasing results using Ha/OIII filters can be achieved. Certainly, Ha is easier to capture (although only using 25% of the pixels), but OIII is extracted from green, which uses 50% of the sensor pixels. Although not as high in SNR (and more frames are needed to boost this/reduce noise) it is not impossible. This bicolour image of the Rosette nebula taken with my SW130P earlier this year:
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