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Deeko

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    21
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About Deeko

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Computer Science
  • Location
    Sheffield
  1. Did you manage to fix the stars? Any more images to share with the NB1? Currently using the IDAS D2 filter and still not made up my mind to go for the AA Tri or IDAS NB1....
  2. Yes, I am assuming they are both similar, would love to know more before I place an order. When both are back in stock that is!
  3. Waiting to get my hands on a triband filter but need to wait until stock arrives! Could anyone who has a bit more knowledge on these triband filters tell me if there is much difference in the specs between these two: https://www.altairastro.com/Altair-TriBand-OSC-CCD-Filter-2inch.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/idas-narrow-band-nebula-nb1-filter.html Cheers! D.
  4. Hi all, I currently use the Baader Optical Wonder fluid with the Baader microfibre cloth. However, I want to use disposable lint-free clothes with the fluid, specifically Kimwipes or similar: https://www.fishersci.co.uk/shop/products/kimberly-clark-kimtech-science-kimwipes-delicate-task-wipers-7/p-211240 . I cannot seem to source a single box or two in the UK, and Amazon and Ebay is mostly from international sellers which I won't trust. Given the medical use, lint-free spec of the Kimwipes linked, does anyone know where I can buy something similar in the UK? Thanks!
  5. Hi all. I currently use a ZWO 294MC-Pro for DSOs and very happy with it. Now I would like to start dabbling with planetary imaging and to cut a long story short - is the 294 any good for this or am I better opting for one of the cheaper (~£200) ZWO cameras to do planetary work? Any recommendations would be great, as well as software to go with it. Cheers D.
  6. Hi all, I have just moved from a DSLR to the ZWO ASI294MC-Pro. I currently use a Nevada 10A (sustained) PSU (12A surge) with 20m of cable out to my back garden. It powers my HEQ5 Pro (~2A), Surface Pro 3 (~2.5A), QHY5II guider (0.5A), and a powered USB 3.0 Hub (~2A). The new 294MC-Pro in the mix will use ~3A with the cooler on - all the amp ratings I have stated are probably the maximum they will draw and will likely be a fair bit less under usual conditions. The total draw of everything working at full tilt would be around 10A, which is the most the PSU can run at a sustained rate. I doubt very much the setup will run flatout at a sustained 10A and will probably be around 10-20% less if not more with normal use. I am thinking about purchasing a 20M active USB cable to move the laptop indoors, the powered hub at the mount would be plugged into the active cable which I can run indoors to the laptop. The cable I am looking at is here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MutecPower-female-cable-extention-chipsets/dp/B01BLPSWTI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 . Apparently the cable can be powered at the laptop/PC end with a DC adaptor but it might not need it as the other end is plugged into the powered hub at the mount. If the cable worked I would also be removing the Surface Pro 3 from the power needs at the mount, freeing up to 2.5A. Does anyone have a similar setup with active USB 3.0 cables and what are their experiences with running cables such as this at 20m? thanks D.
  7. Thank you for the replies, after searching I found a great guide on the AstroBackyard site that goes through an entire workflow using the 294MC-Pro and APT: https://astrobackyard.com/deep-sky-astrophotography-walkthrough . WIll buy both Sharpcap Pro and APT today and then the usual wait for the clouds to disappear after buying new kit
  8. I have noticed that quite a few people use Sharpcap Pro for polar alignment and focusing first, then use APT or SGP for collecting image data. Only £10 for Sharpcap Pro so if the polar alignment feature is indeed good its worth it for that alone!
  9. Hi all, After spending the best part of a year getting to grips with DSLR imaging on my HEQ5 Pro/130PDS/QHY mono guider using a Nikon D3300, I took the plunge and bought the ZWO 294MC-Pro camera. With the jump from DSLR to CMOS comes the steep learning curve of a very different workflow. At this point I would really appreciate some advice on the most suitable camera software to use, atm I am leaning toward either APT or Sharpcap Pro. Also, if anyone can point me to any beginner guides for using ZWO cameras with such software that would be great, possibly even with some suggested camera settings I don't mind the skills challenge but some sound advice to get me off to solid start always helps. I have the below setup: HEQ5 Pro, 130PDS, QHY mono camera for guiding, Surface Pro 3 i7/8GB ram/Win10pro with all the ZWO drivers ASCOM platform installed. Ta! D.
  10. Hello, I have just bought the 294MC-Pro too after moving from a Nikon DSLR, a such I have never used camera control software before. If you could share the camera software you are using and some settings for the 294 it would be much appreciated! There are so many tools to choose from, APT, SGP, Sharpcap....Still not settled on one!
  11. @agthomsonI ordered the 294MC-Pro yesterday and should arrive tomorrow (23/10). I notice you have the 294 in your sig, any advice with software you use and settings etc. would be fantastic, thanks.
  12. Yes, I do guide via PhD2 and use Stellarium with eqmod. Everything is hooked up to Surface Pro 3 laptop/tablet (win 10) which can run off 12v. Essentially this means I can remote into the Surface wirelessly from inside to check on things, so atm I am not leaning toward a desire for wireless devices but would be nice to have - the amount of physical wiring does get in the way though. The main downside I have had with the Surface is that it is sensitive to cold temps, the battery will basically stop functioning reliably when exposed to just below zero for around an hour and will end the session, my Dell XPS 13 laptop does not suffer from this.
  13. In my case time and convenience may well be king in making a final decision, the quicker and easier my workflow can be made the better. I am averse to shelling out an extra wad of cash though if its all about a bit of extra polish when I don't mind an initial challenge The more opinions/thoughts we can get on this thread the better!
  14. Hello, I currently use a Nikon D3300 DSLR with an HEQ5 Pro and SW 130PDS setup. At the moment I am happy with my progress with imaging, particularly with DSO work, but as always looking for a bit more quality. Due to family and demanding work commitments it is a battle to find time (as well as clear skies!). I am looking for a reasonable upgrade to my D3300 by route of a cooled OSC, mainly as a I don't have the significant time required for mono + filters. Budget is around £1000, looking at the ZWO 294MC Pro cooled: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-294mc-pro-usb-30-cooled-colour-camera.html , any suggestions of other OSCs with similar specs/price?
  15. OK - some great info to look through here! I have had my Skywatcher 250px 10" dob for a few years ago and recently noticed two highly visible smudges on the primary mirror, each about the size of a 50p piece close to the middle of the mirror. Not sure what it is but suspect some kind of organic matter that may have been a bit damp and somehow got into the tube. When I first looked I panicked and thought it was bird [removed word] (and what a lucky shot for the bird) but the best description is it looks like large, irregular fingerprints (which of course they are not!). Should I be thinking about stripping out the primary and cleaning as per proper protocol for mirrors? If so does anyone have a guide for doing so on the 250px? Thanks.
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