red dwalf

i`d also try upping the guide scope exposure time to something like 2-3 seconds

if your mount is ascom compatible then you shouldn`t need the st 4 cable, i use the zwo asi driver usually at the bottom of the driver list in phd 2, i would recommend that you use phd 2 and the latest snapshot version, google phd 2 snapshots for the most up to date version.

the mod on the heq5 is easy to do, as above get the wheel extractor, the neq6 on the other hand is a little more complicated

I have been playing with startools, massively cheaper than pixinsight and for me, somewhat easier to us, it also does an excellent job at removing gradients, and i should know as my area of the country is awful for doing long exposure imaging.

that could be it, there seemed to be a few to choose from, but it filled the screen and it also allowed you to adjust the brightness if you wanted to , i just leave it on full brightness and adjust the exposure rate to get an adu reading of somewhere around 27000

i`d say that the biggest thing is the shorter nights compared to the autumn one.

have you got a tablet ? i use the t shirt method, i.e. small piece of white cloth over the front of the scope then a tablet on the top with an app i download for free, white screen i think it was called, this covers the front of the scope just nicely, although my scope is only an 80mm aperture, about 90mm with the dew shield, seems to work a treat.

i`m not much of a visual astonomer anymore but i used to use an xbox controller with my eqmod, either wired or wireless, also rubble pack controllers works well, you can use it to move the telescope around which is especially useful if you are not quite centred on a target or wish to move to a different area, useful when viewing the Moon, the red filters over the pc screen are good, red light does not open the pupils up as much as white light does so can help save your night vision, i also used to use a small netbook with my setup which is more than enough power to run the mount and eqmod, and i made a small shelf for it which would sit under the legs of the mount so it was nicely out of the way.

that looks impressive

if you have very light polluted skies like me then another thing you could do is take shorter subs with LRGB but loads more of them as this tends to help with horriable gradients you get.

you could use the cls filter, the annoying thing about them is they are ok for LRGB but not really needed for narrowband plus i used to get a bit of reflection with my pollution filter, you could also use the HA filter for luminance if the target is rich in HA.

i`m using the older neq6 pro with eqmod and i use it with windows 10 64 bit, and i know that windows 10 tries to give you the latest prolific driver for the cable, which does not work, you have to go into device manager and either roll back the driver to an earlier one or go through the driver update screen but don`t let windows search for a new driver, you need to select the, let me choose from a list, section and choose the 2007 prolific driver, i think it`s 2007 one, usually the first one on the list.

i understand that the darks need to be the same temperature as the lights, but what about the bias and flats ? do these need to be taken at the same temperature ?

And found one, thank you

you can buy a pre made pier adapter, saves a lot of work, altair astro sell them.