red dwalf

what back focus distance did you settle on ?

it`s all about the mount, mount first camera then scope, minimum mount i would recommend would be the HEQ5 pro, ideally a NEQ6 pro, i bought a 5 first but you always end up buying something bigger in the end, the scope is ok but you will need a coma correcter for it i think, camera is fine, not so long ago a 350 was the camera of choice, ideally modded. guide scope is ok but i`d get an altair astro 60 mm non rotating helical focuser or similar, https://www.altairastro.com/altair-60mm-guide-scope-kit-straight-thru-non-rotating-helical-focuser-no-eyepiece-76-p.asp it`s cheaper than the skywatcher and bigger aperture but i understand people like to keep the same brands

i believe if it is a private sale then there is little to be done apart from appealing to the seller to put things right, if you get no joy from the seller you might be able to message a moderator but i don`t think they get involved in sales anymore, also as john says, if you paid via paypal you might be able to re claim your money

hi all, i`m unable for some reason to get the stars, especially big bright ones to focus properly, i`ve tried taking the reducer flatner off and just having a extension tube connected to the camera / filter wheel straight into the focuser and they still look the same, on one side it looks like an egg ! starting to drive me made and not sure what the problem is, everything i can think of is tight including the focuser, the equipment i`m using is a William Optics GT81, starlight filter wheel and an atik 460 camera, i`ve added a couple of pictures to show the focus is good using a bantinov mask and a 1 second image of vega, any ideas gratefully received.

i`m not a fan of those power tanks, things may look ok but they can cause trouble

looks great, i also had focuser problems last night, seems to be a usb cable loose or the usb socket on the focuser loose, always happens when you least expect it

whioe since i used a handset as eqmod much better for myself, but from what i remember is that the date and time format is in the American style i.e. month day year instead of day month year, just check that if you have not already

M13 is lovely, mine is nothing like it L.O.L.

some of the best detail i have seen in M51 for a long time, you must be very pleased with the results

WOW ! that is a cracker

i rather like the first image

Where are you based in the UK ? Interested but obviously couldn't travel far in these restricted times

is it actually worth doing subs for the green channel in RGB imaging ? i ask as in photoshop and i suppose other post processing software, i can do a synthetic green channel therefore freeing up my time to do more Lum, Red and Blue instead, thoughts please.

a beautiful image, you must be chuffed with it, well done

struggle looks worth it, looks amazing on my screen, lots of detail too