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Lonestar70

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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Hi Gerry, The minimum mount you need is an HEQ5 size mount (either SYNTREK or SYNSCAN) Either will allow full computer control for guided astrophotography. The only difference between the 2 versions is that the SYNSCAN version has full goto built into the handset... the SYNTREK does not... this will not bother you if you use computer control, since the handset would not necessarily be used... and GOTO would be provided by the computer software. You should have no trouble locating one of these as there are a number of stockists in Ontario: - http://ca.skywatcher.com/_english/05_service/10_dealer.php It may not be common knowledge... but Sywatcher is actually a Canadian owned company... and is owned and run by folks from Richmond BC... originally they had their head office in Vancouver but moved manufactuing to China when they took over the 'Pacific Telescope Corp'. I hope you find something suitable at one of the suppliers listed in the above link. Best regards. Sandy.
  2. Hi Chris, What a terrific job you have made of that build, you can be justly proud. I do suggest though, that you add a weather bar to the bottom of the door, with a drip groove on the underside otherwise any water running down the door will run under it and inside the building. Teak Oil will not totaly seal the wood, it always allows the wood to breath, and will not stand up to the rigors of the British weather for very long before it needs re-coating... at least 2 coats once a year. The best clear coating I have ever found is: - http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/outdoor-varnish Put a couple or more coats of this on and it will last for years. Hope you get up and running before the winter sets in. Best regards. Sandy.
  3. hyperion_overview.pdf What is going on with this site?... third time lucky. Best regards. Sandy.
  4. not sure what happened... the reply posted without attaching the PDF. Here it is. Best regards. Sandy
  5. Hi Jez, you need to have an eyepiece with a t-thread (or similar) at the viewing end... such as the hyperion eyepieces. You will then need to obtain the correct adapter ring to fit between the camera's filter thread and the eypiece thread. I attach a PDF of the hyperion range showing how this is achieved... look at the 3 right side pictures showing various video camera attachment methods.
  6. Hi all, Quote from Psychobilly: I think you will find that is the other way round... the Syntrek does not have the GOTO handset. Either of these 2 can be controlled via EQMOD if required. I also recommend Steve's book... it will save you making expensive mistakes. Best Regards. Sandy.
  7. Hi Michael, The Ascom driver will only allow one external software at a time to communicate with the LX200. If PHD is granted connection rights then APT would be dis-allowed, and vica-versa. For APT to make the connection, then PHD would first have to relinquish access (disconnect) which would play havoc with your guiding. I believe the same would apply even when using POTH... only one software can be in control at any given time. Perhaps Chris Shillito (from the EQASCOM project and a member here) will be able to suggest how to achieve this... if it is indeed possible. Keep happy. Best regards. Sandy.
  8. If it is the HEQ5 pro mount it would not run very long on 8 x AA batteries... I run mine from a mains powered stabilised DC power supply so did away with the cigar plug... The mount does not like voltages less than 11v DC but can take up to 15V DC. Best regards. Sandy.
  9. A suitable cigar - 2.1mm jack power lead is supplied with the HEQ5... it also houses a fuse in the cigar plug. As standard it is approx 2metres long but you can easily change the cable if required... no need to purchase extra items. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  10. Hi Chris, You have made excellent progress with your build... well done... it's going to be a winner. I told you you would make short work of that timber pile. Won't be long before the roof goes on... BTW... I see the family cat is inspecting the new domain Keep Happy. Best Regards. Sandy.
  11. Hi Chris, Yes, that H-section channel was the joiner I was refering too... I believe they also do a right angle version for the corners but standard 90deg angle section will be just as effective... shame the stuff you bought was too narrow, however, I am sure you will find a us for it elsewhere. I didn't think you had enough space behind to get in to nail it in place... for some reason I thought it was only a couple of inches from the fence. It's amazing how much difference a couple of walls make... you can now see just how much room you have to play with/in. Before you know it you will have it finished and all up and running... and we can all come round for a star party Keep up the great work. Best Regards. Sandy.
  12. Hi Chris, Looking great so far... it's starting to come together nicely now and the missing uprights should not cause you any problems, especially with all those steel angle pieces on every joint; and once all the cladding is attached the walls will be very stable... even more so, if you are planing on fitting an internal skin. One question though... how are you planning on fitting the cladding so that it covers the centre and corner posts? You can certainly make the cladding overlap the frames enough at each end to allow for this, BUT, how will you be able to cover the resulting cladding joints at the corners and at the rear middle upright without access? ... these will need to be sealed or you will get water ingress. I know you can get propriatory joining strips for such joints (from the cladding manufacturer/supplier) but fitting them will be a bitch on the rear centre and back corners. Keep happy. Best Regards. Sandy.
  13. Hi Chris, I agree, nothing wrong with the insulation material... just need to seal it from external access by criters. As for the Vapour barrier, yes you should use it on the PVC clad walls as well... UPVC cladding overlaps are fine for keeping water ( rain) out but not drafts, damp air and small bugs ... there will be small gaps along the overlaped faces and small insects and wind can get through... this is especially necessary if you are going to insulate the walls and add an inner skin, as it will also prevent damp air penetrating into the wall insulation... which, in turn, will result in the inside skin rotting from the insulation side. All good fun is it not?. Keep up the good work. Best regards. Sandy.
  14. Hi Chris, Good to see you making some progress reducing that pile of timber... looking good so far. I bet you found out just how fast wood glue goes off whilst doing those long joints... especially in the HEAT. I too, would suggest getting some toe protection... better to have hot feet than risk a broken (or worse) toe.... oh!!... and a hard hat for the top work. It should go a bit quicker from here, now you are past all the major gluing. Keep Happy Best Regards.
  15. Hi Guys, A word of caution regarding rechargable power tanks. Skywatcher and Celestron mounts will start playing up, or even stop working, when your battery voltage drops below 11v... although items such as dew heater bands will still work (but at a reduced power). Whilst it is true that a leisure battery will hold up for longer, you cannot drain it fully... this will damage the cells. The minimum recommended voltage per cell (6 per battery) is 1.3v for a leisure battery... giving a discharged battery voltage of 7.8V. For a standard power tank you should charge it when the output voltage drops to 9v. Never leave either type in a discharged state as this will lead to irreversible plate damage. A fully charged battery will self discharge over time and should always be recharged fully before re-using it. A period of 5 weeks storage should not be a problem for either type if it is stored in a dry, cool location. Keep happy. Best regards.
  16. Hi Chris, Hope you are feeling a lot better after your recent ailment. Talk about 'De Ja Vu'... ... I have clear recollections of a similar LARGE pile of timber. One things for sure... you will work up a good sweat cutting that lot up... and will make short work of any remaining flu virus :grin: Hope you have got a good circular saw... or mitre saw... wouldn't want to cut all that up wih a hand saw With luck the weather will hold out long enough for you to get the main frame built... or more. Keep happy. Sandy.
  17. Hi Dan, I assume you are attempting to use a standard weight training weight for the additional. You could fit/clamp it between the 2 Standard skywatcher weights but that would mean moving all three when balancing... can get tricky for fine tuning. Alternatively, FLO sell spare weights for the HEQ5, or you could buy the sky Watcher counterweight bar extender (also from FLO). Hope one of these will get you balanced. Best Regards. Sandy.
  18. Hi Guys and Gal's, Gina... the following may help you to temporarily, or permanently, disable any scheduled activities. Task scheduling in Windows. XP · To prevent a task from running until you decide to let it run again, right-click the task in the Scheduled Tasks window, and then click Properties. On the General tab, clear the Enabled check box. Select the check box again to enable the task when you are ready to let the task scheduler run it again. Windows 7 and Vista Disable a Task from Running 3 out of 8 rated this helpful - Rate this topic Applies To: Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2, Windows Server 2012, Windows Vista If you want to stop a task from running for a certain period of time, you can disable the task. The task can be enabled at a later time so that it is allowed to run. For more information, see Enable a Task to Run. To disable a task from running by using the Windows interface 1. If Task Scheduler is not open, start Task Scheduler. For more information, see Start Task Scheduler. 2. Find and click the task folder in the console tree that contains the task you want to disable. 3. In the console window, click the task that you want to disable. 4. In the Actions pane, click Disable . The Disable command will only be available in the Actions pane if the task is enabled. Enable a Task to Run 2 out of 10 rated this helpful - Rate this topic Applies To: Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2, Windows Server 2012, Windows Vista When a task is disabled, which stops a task from running, you can enable the task so that it can be run on demand or when it is scheduled to run. To enable a task to run by using the Windows interface 5. If Task Scheduler is not open, start Task Scheduler. For more information, see Start Task Scheduler. 6. Find and click the task folder in the console tree that contains the task you want to enable. 7. In the console window, click the task that you want to enable. 8. In the Actions pane, click Enable . The Enable command will only be available in the Actions pane if the task is disabled. A lot of the problems with USB are bandwidth related... Camera's are allocated the isochronous communications group priority with up to 90% of the available bandwidth... leaving just 10% for control and interupt devices. Another common problem is failing to realise that the bandwidth is allocated to the USB HOST controller built into your PC/laptop. Most modern pc/laptops have at least 2 USB host controllers and the available USB ports are shared between them. On Laptops, which often only have 3 USB ports, 2 can be on one controller and the 3rd will be on the other. If you plug a hub into one USB port, with your mount + guidecam connected and then plug a DSLR into a separate USB port and both USB ports are running from the same HOST Controller, then the 2 cameras will be forced to share the 90% allocation... which could easily result in the guide camera not being able to respond quickly enough... if the DSLR just happens to be downloading at the time... RESULT... lost comms. It is always better to keep cameras on different HOST CONTROLLERS... which can be found out from the DEVICE MANAGER. Poor quality cables can also be a very significant issue. All Good fun though. Keep Happy. Best regards. Sandy.
  19. I should also have said... you can make a resized copy of your photos using Photoshop or most other photo editing software... some will also allow watermarking. I find FastStone a bit quicker to use when I have a batch to do... especially if I need to watermark them. You can save the reduced pictures as separate files... thus retaining your original. Best Regards. Sandy.
  20. Hi, You will need to reduce the size of your pictures to around 800 x 600 pixels. If you need a suitable programme then I can recommend 'Faststone Photo Reducer' Available as a free download : - http://www.faststone.org/index.htm This will also allow you to watermark your pictures if you need to. It will work for single pictures or whole batches. Welcome to SGL by the way. Best Regards. Sandy.
  21. If you are not getting the Black screen, as per the screenshots suggested above, you may need to change the Screen Theme. Go right down to the bottom left of the page... you will see a button marked Change Theme... click on this and select SGL 2012. This should give you the black screen background, and everything else should appear as shown. Regards. Sandy.
  22. Hi Steve, That is what SGL is all about... helping each other. I am pleased you have finally got it all working, no matter where you got the files from. Just goes to show... DON'T always BELIEVE what M.Soft says when it comes to drivers... any problems... CLEAR and RELOAD. It's looking fairly settled for most of the week so hope you can manage to get some photos. Best Regards. Sandy.
  23. Sorry about the changing font size i the above... not sure why it did that... it only showed up after I had posted. Very ODD. Sandy
  24. Hi Steve, Ok, the usb-serial converter looks ok on the surface, however, I am not convinced it has true RS232 outputs/inputs. The PL2303HXD chip is a 3.3 volt device and can only accept inputs between 1.8V - 3.3v. If your device does not also have the SP213EH level converter chip, which converts 3.3v to true RS232 levels then it will only be outputing 3.3v signals... which can create problems with communications. The RS232 level converter changes the 0v - 3.3v signal levels to +/- 9v signal levels, and Vice-Versa, giving much greater drive capability. I use an FTDI converter which has this level conversion built in and I have no problems with it. I use the FTDI US232R - 10 premium device. The ser2pl file you had to download is in fact a windows .sys file and is needed for the converter to work properly with windows. One possible problem is that the prolific installer can corrupt this file... NOTE... this corruption can also occur with the MAC version. so It might pay you to delete all the prolific files and drivers, including this one and try re-loading everything using the following method: - I have installed and used this technique on XP, Vista and Win7 (32 and 64 bit). And I never ran the “compatibility wizard or tried to change the compatibility. I just ran the installer on whatever system I put it on… Apparently the driver from http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31 DOES work however I think the installer program corrupts SER2PL.SYS, the very driver that is needed. Here’s my workaround. Download from Prolific http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31 1. PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.5.0.zip 2. PL2303DRemover_v1001.zip And from http://sysfiles-download.com/phome/?phome=DownSoft&softid=657&pathid=0&pass=fb92fd764ef001a1d4385d7429dff2b4&p=::: 1. Download ser2pl.sys 2. Don’t worry about the other 3 or 4 files that come with it ALL YOU NEED IS SER2PL.SYS Ok let’s get started, * REMEMBER WHERE YOU EXTRACTED ALL THE FILES TO INCLUDING SER2PL.SYS * After all downloads and extractions from Zip, run the prolific driver installer. * Run the PL2303 remover program, all this does is remove the SER2PL.SYS file from your system. NOW comes the fun part (/sarc) Go to your device manager (your Prolific USB to Serial cable plugged in) * XP> control panel > System> Hardware tab>Device Manager. Click on “ports (com & LPT) * Or however you know how to get there! You should see the “prolific” device, “Prolific USB to Serial COM Port (com#)” If you don’t it’s not plugged in! * right click and select “update driver” * select “install from a list, or specific place(advanced) * On the next menu select the radio button “search for the best driver in these locations” * Deselect the tick box for “search for removable media” * Select the tick box for “Include this location in the search” * Browse to the folder where you extracted and saved the SER2PL.SYS file. * Press next and install the driver. Your USB to SERIAL cable now works! This is the process I used for XP and it is in general the same process I used for Vista and Win7 (32 and 64 Bit). This should eliminate any possible problem with the prolific side of things... other than the signal levels. It is possible that something is not set up correctly in APT, however, I am not familiar enough with it to suggest what. Try simplifying things a little... Take APT out of the equation for now... Download DSLR Shutter from: - http://www.Stark-Labs.com It is a free programme which is just a straight forward and simple intervalometer. Once installed it has a very simple user interface... to connect to your USB converter just select the correct port number and click connect. Set the number of exposures, any delay between exposures, and the exposure length and click go. NOTE... used on it's own you will save any exposures to your camera's memory card. If used with another camera tethering programme, such as the Canon EOS capture supplied with the camera, then you would be able to save to PC. I hope all this makes sense. let us know how you get on. Best Regards. Sandy.
  25. Hi Steve, Sorry to hear that the resistor change has not helped, although I would leave it at 470 ohms. Which USB - SERIAL adaptor did you buy?... I assume it came with a disc with the necessary drivers on it? Which programme asked for a missing file?... it is certainly looking like a software issue. Keep positive... we will get it sorted. Best Regards. Sandy.
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