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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Hi Steve, Ah! that's not good... I looked on FLO site and saw the 8" in stock but did not click on the 10"... silly me. They are pretty good at getting stuff though so e-mail them and see what the score is... sorry about that. Where am I... well I am diagonally opposite you at the top end of the Kintyre peninsula... I overlook the Crinan canal. I have great views South, East and West from my back garden and good North views from the front. Yes the skies here are super... when it's not raining... But we do have the dreaded MIDGIES to contend with. I Know your area quite well as my family are from Buckie and Fraserburgh. Good to meet you too. Best Regards. Sandy.
  2. Hi Steve, and welcome to SGL. FLO list the light shroud for your scope and appear to be IN STOCK http://www.firstlightoptics.com/dew-prevention/astrozap-light-shroud-for-skywatcher-flextube.html Where in the highlands are you, roughly... I am on the west coast. Hope this helps. Enjoy your new scope and our dark Scottish skies. Best regards. Sandy.
  3. Hi Alistair, Yes that is correct... always best to check these things, plugging in with the wrong polarity can be very costly, since many modern pieces of equipment (scope mounts included unfortunately) do not have reverse polarity protection. Best regards. Sandy.
  4. Hi Chris, I join the rest of the guy's and girls in wishing a succesful decision in your favour. The Planning surveyor is quite correct in not being allowed to reveal the complainant, however, he should tell you the basis behind the complaint, since that could not be considered unreasonable and would not breach confidentiality rules. I look forward to seing your quest completed without any further interference from jealous neighbours. Best regards. Sandy.
  5. Hi Alistair, That sounds like a good combination so should work out OK for you. One thing I would check out though... make sure the regulator output polarity is correct for your USB hub (Usually tip positive) before you plug it into the HUB. Some of these regulators can be switched between tip positive and tip negative... others are fixed polarity and it is not clear on the spec sheet which way this is for the one you show. Easy to check with a multi-meter... better safe than sorry. Good luck wit the setup. Best regards. Sandy.
  6. Hi Alistair, The voltage regulator will be fine at the 5v 3amp setting. The bigger problem will be when either of your batteries fall to 11v... this is the minimum required for your mount. The regulator will still output 5v at battery voltages as low as 10volts but your battery may not be able to supply the current as it will be almost flat, it being at the minimum discharge voltage recommended before a full recharge. Allowing these batteries to fully discharge to below 10volts could damage the battery. Hope this helps. Best Regards. Sandy.
  7. Hmm!... might be a bit tight if your using your D50. On my D90 the normal 48mm Nikon adaptor makes up the required distance to achieve the 55mm... it's only 7.5mm thick. What imaging camera were/are you planning on using. Best regards. Sandy.
  8. Hi, Sounds like the OAG will fit directly... the only thing you need to watch is the backfocus distance. This is fixed @ 55mm between the flat face at the bottom of the 48mm thread on the coma corrector to the face of the camera sensor. Hopefully your OAG is a thin one. Best regards. Sandy.
  9. Hi, yes the F5 sw coma corrector for the PDS scopes does also function as a x0.9 reducer. I use one with my 150PDS. SW also make a field flattener for F5 - F6.6 scopes but this is not quite the same device. Best Regards. Sandy.
  10. Solo05 Posted Today, 05:40 PM Hi Steve, and thanks... I did not doubt your claim, rather I was curious as to the actual current being drawn. I would think your draw was no more than 1.5 amps so that would make sense. Also, don't forget that the reported 3/4 charge left relates to the 8v cut-off voltage... the more important discharge voltage point would be the 11v minimum for the mount... It would be interesting to see how it stood up under a more severe load and how long it would be before the mount started to play up with low voltage warnings. Interesting subject and batteries are improving at a fast pace nowadays. Best regards. Sandy.
  11. Hi Solo, Interesting... do you know what current you are actually drawing from this battery? 2 x 5hr sessions suggest a very small load. I suspect that anyone using 2 or more dew heaters and running other items, such as usb hubs and laptops, taking a total of say 4 amps would be hard put to get more than 3 hrs use from the 22Ah battery before it droped to the 11v minimum voltage required for the mount. The Data sheet for the 2548 shows a discharge time @4.1 amps giving only 170-180 minutes. I agree it is lightweight, but capacity wise a good leisure battery will better this by a large margin and be a lot cheaper. It is, however, a much better solution than the normal powertanks. Best regards. Sandy.
  12. Hi Emad, The knobs are on a different page... see top index bar. The side mount brackets are on the bottom of the first link page or directly from the second link. These brackets are not the same as the ones in your picture and they would need you to glue some small blocks of wood to the bottom of your mount to screw them onto... and they would probably be more rigid. The type you pictured are not available, as far as I can tell, in the UK... but here is a link for them directly from America. http://www.opticsmart.com/leveling-feet-for-dobsonian-telescopes.html they will be quite expensive though, once you add on import duty, VAT and postage. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  13. Here you go Emad... lots of different feet, and adjusting knobs + side mount brackets. Hope you find something amongst this lot. http://www.rosshandling.co.uk/rigid-feet.asp http://www.rosscastors.co.uk/accessories/adjustable-feet-accessories.html Make sure you pick the correct size adjuster thread to suit the brackets. Best regards. Sandy.
  14. Hi Gerry, The minimum mount you need is an HEQ5 size mount (either SYNTREK or SYNSCAN) Either will allow full computer control for guided astrophotography. The only difference between the 2 versions is that the SYNSCAN version has full goto built into the handset... the SYNTREK does not... this will not bother you if you use computer control, since the handset would not necessarily be used... and GOTO would be provided by the computer software. You should have no trouble locating one of these as there are a number of stockists in Ontario: - http://ca.skywatcher.com/_english/05_service/10_dealer.php It may not be common knowledge... but Sywatcher is actually a Canadian owned company... and is owned and run by folks from Richmond BC... originally they had their head office in Vancouver but moved manufactuing to China when they took over the 'Pacific Telescope Corp'. I hope you find something suitable at one of the suppliers listed in the above link. Best regards. Sandy.
  15. Hi Chris, What a terrific job you have made of that build, you can be justly proud. I do suggest though, that you add a weather bar to the bottom of the door, with a drip groove on the underside otherwise any water running down the door will run under it and inside the building. Teak Oil will not totaly seal the wood, it always allows the wood to breath, and will not stand up to the rigors of the British weather for very long before it needs re-coating... at least 2 coats once a year. The best clear coating I have ever found is: - http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/outdoor-varnish Put a couple or more coats of this on and it will last for years. Hope you get up and running before the winter sets in. Best regards. Sandy.
  16. hyperion_overview.pdf What is going on with this site?... third time lucky. Best regards. Sandy.
  17. not sure what happened... the reply posted without attaching the PDF. Here it is. Best regards. Sandy
  18. Hi Jez, you need to have an eyepiece with a t-thread (or similar) at the viewing end... such as the hyperion eyepieces. You will then need to obtain the correct adapter ring to fit between the camera's filter thread and the eypiece thread. I attach a PDF of the hyperion range showing how this is achieved... look at the 3 right side pictures showing various video camera attachment methods.
  19. Hi all, Quote from Psychobilly: I think you will find that is the other way round... the Syntrek does not have the GOTO handset. Either of these 2 can be controlled via EQMOD if required. I also recommend Steve's book... it will save you making expensive mistakes. Best Regards. Sandy.
  20. Hi Michael, The Ascom driver will only allow one external software at a time to communicate with the LX200. If PHD is granted connection rights then APT would be dis-allowed, and vica-versa. For APT to make the connection, then PHD would first have to relinquish access (disconnect) which would play havoc with your guiding. I believe the same would apply even when using POTH... only one software can be in control at any given time. Perhaps Chris Shillito (from the EQASCOM project and a member here) will be able to suggest how to achieve this... if it is indeed possible. Keep happy. Best regards. Sandy.
  21. If it is the HEQ5 pro mount it would not run very long on 8 x AA batteries... I run mine from a mains powered stabilised DC power supply so did away with the cigar plug... The mount does not like voltages less than 11v DC but can take up to 15V DC. Best regards. Sandy.
  22. A suitable cigar - 2.1mm jack power lead is supplied with the HEQ5... it also houses a fuse in the cigar plug. As standard it is approx 2metres long but you can easily change the cable if required... no need to purchase extra items. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  23. Hi Chris, You have made excellent progress with your build... well done... it's going to be a winner. I told you you would make short work of that timber pile. Won't be long before the roof goes on... BTW... I see the family cat is inspecting the new domain Keep Happy. Best Regards. Sandy.
  24. Hi Chris, Yes, that H-section channel was the joiner I was refering too... I believe they also do a right angle version for the corners but standard 90deg angle section will be just as effective... shame the stuff you bought was too narrow, however, I am sure you will find a us for it elsewhere. I didn't think you had enough space behind to get in to nail it in place... for some reason I thought it was only a couple of inches from the fence. It's amazing how much difference a couple of walls make... you can now see just how much room you have to play with/in. Before you know it you will have it finished and all up and running... and we can all come round for a star party Keep up the great work. Best Regards. Sandy.
  25. Hi Chris, Looking great so far... it's starting to come together nicely now and the missing uprights should not cause you any problems, especially with all those steel angle pieces on every joint; and once all the cladding is attached the walls will be very stable... even more so, if you are planing on fitting an internal skin. One question though... how are you planning on fitting the cladding so that it covers the centre and corner posts? You can certainly make the cladding overlap the frames enough at each end to allow for this, BUT, how will you be able to cover the resulting cladding joints at the corners and at the rear middle upright without access? ... these will need to be sealed or you will get water ingress. I know you can get propriatory joining strips for such joints (from the cladding manufacturer/supplier) but fitting them will be a bitch on the rear centre and back corners. Keep happy. Best Regards. Sandy.
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