CraigT82

That's a great effort, very nicely done!

This depends on the scope aperture and focal length shooting at. But you wouldn't want to shoot stills anyway, video is the way to go with the planets.

Maybe this? https://www.365astronomy.com/d21-protect-window-without-cell-replacement-clear-filter-for-zwo-asi120mm-asi120mm-s-asi185mc-asi224mc-and-asi290mm-cameras.html You will still need IR/UV cut though as the stock AR window lets full spectrum through

You should be fine just using a UV/IR cut filter on the nosepiece. The sensor will be more susceptible to dust without the AR window but the images should be fine as long as the UV/IR cut filter you use is of decent quality.

Something fishy in your log files, the fps and the exposure lengths don't match up. One says exposure was 125ms but was getting 30fps which isn't possible with that exposure time (1000/125=8fps max). I'd try to get exposure time down as far as possible, down below 10ms if you can. Crank the gain up to achieve this. Keep histogram around 70% ideally to avoid overexposing any parts. Easy to brighten image afterwards but impossible to bring back blown out highlights.

Have a look on the Astrobin website, you can search the images using the terms "72ED" and/or "DSLR", that will give you an idea of what's capable with that scope and camera. Be sure to look at what mount was used though!

If you're handy with the tools you could make yourself one and save the cash for something else. A cell for a 6" mirror shouldn't be too much of a challenge. https://stellafane.org/tm/dob/ota/cell2.html

Ade Ashfords mars mapper is good. http://www.nightskies.net/mars/mars.html

Very nice, is that an 8" f6?

Very nice work well done!

Some nice detail in the IR, don't know what we'd do without IR filters?!

Nice work Peter, definitely worth getting out there.

Very nice looking setup, well worth the effort to get it gong again 👍

Same... mine has seen off a Tal100RS, 102mm f/11 achro, skymax 127 and even a C8 (which might not have been the best example) all those were bought as 'upgrades' to the little newt but I always just preferred the view through the H130p and moved the others on. Maybe it's sentimental bias... as it was my first scope!

I think that 2 inch nose piece you linked to will get you a bit more in focus travel, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough. The reason skywatcher made the PDS version is because the original explorer P is made for visual observing and won't normally focus with DSLRs without modifications (usually moving the mirror up the tube or fitting a lower profile focuser)

Nice!

What adaptors are you using now?

Well I for one am extremely glad that far Eastern optical manufacturing is at such a good level!

This scope is meant to be ised with cameras, hence whey yoi can focus easily with the camera. To use eyepieces you need an extension tube as the EP will focus much further out. If you're looking at objects as close as across the road then you'll need a lot of extension to get focus with EP.

Thesee psychological reasons could be significant. One's belief in what one's scope is capable of is directly proportional to cost of scope!

If its not the PDS model you may have issues getting the camera far enough inwards to focusas DSLRs focus much further inwards then eyepieces, but using a barlow lens usually moves the focus point outwards enough to get focus with the camera. What are you trying to look at? In the daytime you need ro be aiming at something very far, > 1km away preferably

The pillar will be stable with that weight on it and will be fone for visual use. For astrophotography I'm not too sure as it does transmit vibration quite badly. Here is a short video showong this... I've got my scope set up on the concrete floor of my garage with my laptop on a workable about 4ft away. The image on the screen is at a FL of 1620mm. If I rap my hand on the table the image wobbles noticeably. This may be mitigated my filling the pier with expanding foam or using sorbothane pads under the bolts. Also setting up on grass helps (I set up on three long spikes which are set into my front lawn). Also using shorter focal lenghts will obviously result in less image movement. 20200817_163531.mp4

Ah turned my blue light filter off and looks much better!

Very nice Paul plenty of easily identifiable topology seen. Perhaps a bit green though? Or maybe thats just my phone screen

Thats a great idea Ade! I've got the same pillar and have driven 3x 500mm permanent ground markers into my front lawn and I set it up on those, haven't managed to get permission to leave it our there semi permanently though, still have to set up and tear down each session 🙁