bottletopburly

Just follow Anthony’s advice that all you need no more expense the stock 1.25 eyepiece holder unscrews as it is made from two parts you need bottom piece as in Anthony’s piccy screw that into t-ring attach to camera insert into focus tube , tighten and good to go 👍

Log is in tools >general >bottom left export log .

Is the path to platesove2 correct , does it need a blind solve as I thought it used solve as it roughly knows co-ordinates and uses go to++ to recenter, maybe @Yoddha will know.

what capture software are you currently using ron .

That is a super image well done .

defo no colour 🤔

Works a dream for me so much less hassle than DSS

Dropbox me all your files if you like i have fast BB i will try

@alacantWindows 0.9.12 screen is white , they tweaked scripts slightly but only to do with destination folder now in pictures .

Have you tried using the script to see what it produces ?.

Tbh i would use bigger pipe at least 3" i used 30mm for only a short distance and that's too small and was a pain lesson learnt ,found the easiest way to run cable was to suck fine cord using Henry hoover ,have you got far to run

Ticked

Not 100 percent but that may be a video by maybe @alacant

There is a few ways to use siril the easiest way is to use scripts, so lets assume you dither like me so all you need is light frames ,Bias frames and flat frames ,create a folder and name it for your target ie M13 ,now open folder and create three folders name them Biases ,Flats and Lights , now put relevant files into these folders ,> open siril and change the working directory (bottom right) to the folder containing M13 now go to scripts choose DSLR processing No Dark ,thats it ,off it goes ,you just choose the script for your files so if lights darks biases flats used choose DSLR processing though remember to create a folder Darks , or you can use sirilic no need to open siril tutorial here http://download.startools.org/Siril with Sirilic.pdf back to your no colour i assume you have debayer ticked/unticked

Remember the D810 is iso invariant ,recommended iso is 200 nothing gained cranking iso up, other than noise http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-values-nikon-cameras/ loveley images btw .

my Mount bottoms in middle area, washers around outside if mount sorted it so middle doesnt bottom out first .

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/polar-illuminator-for-eq3-2eq5-mounts.html

Skywatcher do a polar scope illuminate I have used it on my Eq6 works well and is dimmable to suit

a quick process in Startools , using heal to rid walking noise , Dither is the way to head for eradicating walking noise , i image using APT and has a dither setting ,basically the image moves a few pixels between subs , so basically more Data the more the merrier once you have 4 hrs you will see a big difference , take at least 25 bias frames you only need to do this once and keep in a folder , Good flat frames again at least 25 frames you need these every time you image ,and if you don't dither then at least 25 frames again you only need to do this once .

@david_taurus83 i got a tracer panel though not impressed with quality of it they illuminate from one edge so this week i will make my own light box , but i do like the nina flat wizard though

Have you checked pulse settings haven’t reset themselves to default 0.1 I have had Eqmod do that before my Eq6 are about 0.8

I tried Nina flats wizard if I got it right inputting iso 200 and leaving everything at default setting it worked out 0.5 sec a longer exposure than I would normally use , I have a replacement flat panel coming this week hopefully so will wait and see how that measures .

@david_taurus83 was that ccd or dslr?

As Alcant says go into Eqmod setup and pulse guide setting increase to at least 0.8for Dec and Ra as default setting is low at 0.1 .

Actually if using Eqmod ditch st4 and pulse guide no need for st4