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About symmetal

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    Proto Star

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    North Cornwall
  1. Some open star clusters as opposed to globular clusters can be quite large so may be more suitable to image. Alan
  2. The moonlight increases the level of the sky background, so can be considered as light pollution, though over pretty much the full light spectrum, as opposed to urban light pollution which is generally concentrated in narrower width peaks. Any imaging object which is fainter than the sky background at that light wavelength will not be visible as the sky background will swamp it. The recogizable stars that form star clusters will, on the whole, still be brighter than the sky background so can be imaged successfully. Fainter stars may not show however. Moonlight can give rise to noticeable gradients, though these are easier to correct on images which just contain stars. The spectrum of moonlight, which follows fairly closely the light spectrum of the Sun exhibits a dip at the wavelength of Ha (656nm), which is why narrowband Ha imaging can be performed in moonlight with good results. Narrowband OIII at 501nm and SII at 672nm don't have similar dips so are more affected by moonlight. Alan
  3. The halos and multiple diffraction spikes are unfortunately due to condensation, possibly on the main mirror. The star shapes as you say look pretty good. Very slight elongation but not enough to worry about at the moment. There is possibly slight coma on the bright corner stars but this may be just due to the condensation. In your processing you've black clipped the background so have probably lost any nebulosity which was present, though it was probably masked by the condensation artefacts anyway. Good start anyway. Alan
  4. You could ask the seller I suppose or know someone who already has one. The one that Dave linked to does have very bright edges implying this may be where the leds are. If the individual dots were leds I would expect them to be brighter than the edges of the panel which would not need or want leds. Alan
  5. I have an A4 and a A3 Huion LED Panel which have very even illumination. I did buy a cheap A5 one, similar looking to the one Dave posted for my RedCat 51 and the individual leds were just little perspex prisms. The leds were under the black strip on the left so the panel naturally had a noticible gradient left to right. The larger ones may use actual leds but it's best to check. Alan
  6. It will work putting them on a radiator but it can take up to a week for them to turn yellow brown. As this doesn't work in the summer, I thought of utilising the 60W tube heater on the floor of the airing cupboard. The hot water tank had been removed and the heater does a good replacement job. I just placed a perforated aluminium place above the heater and keep the sachets and tablets on the plate. Again it takes a week to dry them and just leave them there until needed. I happened to change two sachets yesterday from my FLO eyepiece caps which are the green ones. The Zwo tablet bag is actually open in the picture. Alan
  7. Click your user name top right and select Profile. Then click the symbol in the bottom left of your photo that's displayed next to your username to choose another one. Alan
  8. Yes, it does depend on the camera pixel size as to whether the Powermate or Barlow with the 60mm Lunt will give extra detail. The ASI174 as used by Merlin66 with its large pixels certainly would and the ASI1600 and ASI120 with more 'medium' size pixels would also gain some. 'Glad' someone else also had them. Thought I was the only one, when using a Powermate. Alan
  9. The hex key is probably to remove the rear M56 to M48 adapter, to enable a diagonal or 2" filter to be fitted. Mine was an early version and came with a hex key but I used my own. The images/diagrams on FLO's and the WO site are the only documentation. Alan
  10. Hi Marcel, Click on your user name at the top right of the screen where you login, then select 'Account Settings'. Select 'Signature' from the list on the left and then put the information you want to appear at the end of your posts in the Signature editable window. I believe your initial reply to me asked that question, but I misread as to what you were referring to. Alan
  11. You'll need the 1.25" Powermate to fit in the eyepiece end of the blocking filter diagonal. I believe I needed a 1.25" extender (barlow with lens removed) too to achieve focus. If you only have the 2" Powermates they would have to fit before the diagonal which I wouldn't recommend as the extra heat generated before the blocking filter could damage them. Alan
  12. You can if you insert the Powermate in the eyepiece end of the diagonal. An extender will probably be needed too to achieve focus. I did try it with my Lunt 60 but it gave bad Newton's Rings when used and gave no extra detail with my ASI178MM camera as the camera image scale at 0.99"/pixel is well matched to the scopes Dawes resolution limit of 1.93" without the Powermate. Alan
  13. Glad it's working again. It's worth considering spraying all the USB contacts in ACF-50, to avoid damp causing future problems. This previous thread gives some information you may find useful. Alan
  14. Have you tried reinstalling the Zwo drivers (native and Ascom). Alan
  15. I just sprayed enough viakal in a cup to cover the filter and dropped the filter in it. Left it for around 20 mins turning it over half way through. Picked it out rinsed it in water and it's as good as new. Alan
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